Brake drum on rear axle Škoda Rapid A knot that sooner or later requires attention: whether it is replacing pads, repairing a bearing or eliminating creaks. Many car owners are afraid to interfere with the brake system, considering the process difficult or risky. In practice, dismantling the drum is a task that even a beginner can cope with with the right preparation.
In this article, we will discuss the process of removing the drum on Rapid All generations (including the 2017 and 2021 restyled versions), point out the typical errors and give tips on how to avoid damage to parts. We will pay special attention to the nuances associated with electronic hand brake (EPB)It is installed on the model from 2019.
Preparing for work: tools and safety precautions
Before you start dismantling, make sure you have everything you need. Working with the brake system requires accuracy: Incorrect actions can lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of braking.
Here is the minimum set of tools:
- 🔧 Socket wrench on
30 mm(to unscrew the hub nut) - 🔧 Head on
13 mmand15 mmwith extension - 🔧 Removal of brake drums (or two mounts)
- 🔧 Hammer with rubber head
- 🔧 WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant
- 🔧 Jack and wheel chocks
- 🔧 Torque wrench (optional, for precise tightening)
If on your Rapid installed electronic handbrake (EPB)A diagnostic scanner will be required (e.g., VCDS or OBDeleven) to put the system into service mode. Without this, you will not be able to remove the drum - the pads will block the disk.
⚠️ Attention: Never use the brake system on a car that is only on a jack! Always use safety stops under the front wheels and place the spare wheel under the threshold. This will prevent injuries from an accidental car crash.
Also prepare the workplace: a flat surface (asphalt or concrete), good lighting and no dirt. If the drum is stiff, you may need to. heating with a building hair dryer (up to 200 ° C) It is the only safe way to dissociate corrosion without damaging the metal.
- Never studied
- I'm changing my shoes myself.
- Removed drums/discs previously
- Professional mechanic
Step 1: Remove the wheel and access the drum
Start by loosening the wheel nuts on a still-ground car. For this:
- Set the car on the hand and turn on the first gear (or
Pfor automatic transmission). - Weaken the wheel nuts with a balloon key (don’t remove them completely!).
- Lift the car with a jack, installing it under a special socket on the threshold (see). guide Rapid).
- Remove the wheel and place it under the threshold as additional insurance.
Now you have the brake drum. Nana Škoda Rapid It is placed on a single central nut (on the 30 mm) and may be further fixed by two guide studs. If the drum has not been removed for a long time, the nut is most likely boiled.
Before Attempt to unscrew it, profusely handle the thread WD-40 And let the lubricant soak up for 10 to 15 minutes. If the nut does not lend itself, try to slightly tap it with a hammer through a wooden spacer.
If the nut of the hub does not unscrew, do not apply excessive force - this can damage the bearing. It is better to use an extension cord for the key or a lever with a support on the ground.
Step 2: Dismantling the drum - ways and nuances
After removal of the central nut, the drum should be easily removed from the hub. However, in practice, it often “feels” due to corrosion or deformation. Let’s look at three ways to dismantle:
| Method | Description | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Puller | Use a special detachment with legs, which evenly presses on the drum. | Safe for the bearing, minimal risk of damage. | Requires the purchase of the tool (from 1500 rubles). |
| Installation | Two mounts are inserted into the technological holes of the drum and simultaneously press out. | Fast, does not require special equipment. tool. | High risk of drum deformation or hub damage. |
| Heating | The drum is heated with a building hairdryer (up to 200 ° C), then removed with a removable or hammer. | Effective in severe corrosion. | It requires caution (do not overheat the bearing!). |
| Impact method | Careful hammering through a wooden bar on the end of the drum. | Just, it doesn't require tools. | Risk of damage to the bearing or hub. |
On Škoda Rapid With rear drum brakes, the combination of the receiver and heating often helps. If the drum is still not removed, check whether the guide studs interfere - they can be twisted with a key on the 13 mm.
⚠️ Attention: If the drum is deformed or has deep grooves, it cannot be reused! Such defects lead to uneven wear of the pads and vibrations during braking.
☑️ Preparing to remove the drum
Step 3: Features for Electronic handbrake (EPB) models
Cars Škoda Rapid 2019 and later are often equipped electronic parking brake (EPB). Before removing the drum, the system must be transferred to service modeOtherwise, the pads will block the disk.
To do this:
- Connect a diagnostic scanner (for example, VCDS or OBDeleven) to the connector
OBD-II. - Select block
03 - Electronic parking brake. - Activate the function
Service modeorRetraction(depending on the program). - Wait for confirmation that the pads are unplugged.
If the scanner is not available, you can try to “cheat” the system:
- 🔧 Start the car.
- 🔧 Press and hold the brake pedal.
- 🔧 Press and release the handbrake button 3-5 times.
- 🔧 In some cases, this will cause a blockage.
After removing the drum, don't forget. return the EPB to operational mode through the scanner! Otherwise, the handbrake will not function.
What to do if there is no scanner?
If you do not have diagnostic equipment, you can contact the service to activate the service mode (cost ~ 500 rubles). The alternative is to remove the drum along with the hub (you will need to unscrew the bolts of the brake shield mounting), but this is time-consuming and not always possible.
Step 4: Check the condition of the drum and pads
After dismantling, examine the drum for:
- 🔍 Deep furrows (more than 1 mm) - a sign of wear of the pads or hitting sand.
- 🔍 Cracks Even small ones can cause damage when heated.
- 🔍 Uneven wear (Salvage) - checked by a rod.
- 🔍 Corrosion on the working surface - makes braking worse.
Permissible internal diameter of the drum for Rapid — 200 mm (new) and before 201.5 mm (maximum wear and tear). If the value is exceeded, the drum must be replaced.
Also check:
- 🔧 Condition brake pads (The thickness of the friction material must be at least 2 mm).
- 🔧 Integrity springs and straps.
- 🔧 No leaks brake fluid from the cylinder.
- 🔧 Condition wheel bearing (play or noise during rotation is a sign of wear).
⚠️ Attention: If there are oil spots on the working surface of the drum, this is a sign of a malfunction of the semi-axle ossic or brake cylinder. Operating a car in this condition is dangerous!
Even if the drum is visually intact, it must be checked for beating. To do this, set it on the hub, twist the nut and scroll - any fluctuations or grazes on the pads indicate deformation.
Step 5: Install the drum back - key points
Before installing a new or repaired drum:
- Clean the seat on the hub of dirt and rust (use a metal brush).
- Apply a thin layer copper grease onto the adjacent surface of the hub (but not onto the working part of the drum!).
- Check that the brake pads are properly installed and do not interfere with the drum.
Installation is performed in reverse order:
- Put the drum on the hub and combine the holes under the studs.
- Twisting the central nut. moment 180-200 Nm (use a torque wrench!).
- Install the wheel and lower the car.
- Tighten the nuts of the wheel cross-over in the moment
110 Nm.
After installation, be sure to:
- 🔧 Pump the brakes (if the brake cylinder was removed).
- 🔧 Check the handbrake (for EPB, activate the mode through the scanner).
- 🔧 Take a test trip with several braking to get the pads to work.
If the drum has been replaced, the first 200-300 km avoid sharp braking - this will prolong the service life of new parts.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes when working with brake drums. Here are the most common:
| Error | Consequences | How to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Retightening the hub nut | Damage to the bearing, vibrations when moving. | Use the dynamometer key (max). 200 Nm. |
| Installation of the drum without cleaning the hub | Uneven landing, beating, accelerated wear. | Carefully clean the seat with a brush. |
| Ignoring EPB service mode | Damage to the brake mechanism, impossibility of removal. | Always use a scanner for EPB. |
| Using excessive force during dismantling | Drum cracks, hub deformation. | Use a puller and heat, not a hammer. |
Another common problem is forget to check the brake cylinder. If its pistons are seized or there are leaks, the new drum will quickly fail. Signs of a cylinder failure:
- 🔴 Brake fluid leaks on the shield.
- 🔴 Uneven braking (the car pulls to the side).
- 🔴 Pads jamming after removing the drum.
If the cylinder is faulty, it must be replaced or repaired (replacement of cuffs). On Rapid this can be done without removing the hub, which simplifies the task.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about removing the drum on the Škoda Rapid
Is it possible to remove the drum without a puller?
Yes, but it's risky. Alternative ways:
- Use two pry bars inserted into the drum holes and gently press in different directions.
- Tap the drum in a circle with a rubber hammer, then try to remove it with your hands.
- Heat the drum with a hairdryer (up to 200°C) and try to remove it after cooling.
However, without a puller, there is a high risk of damaging the drum or bearing.
How do you understand that the drum needs to be replaced and not sharpened?
The drum must be replaced if:
- Its internal diameter exceeds
201.5 mm(maximum wear). - There are deep grooves (more than 1 mm) or cracks.
- Uneven wear (ovality more than 0.1 mm).
- When grooving, the wall thickness will become less than 3 mm.
Grooving is justified only if wear is uniform and there are no defects.
What should I do if my brakes squeak after installing the drum?
Creaking can occur for several reasons:
- New pads — they need 200–300 km to break in.
- Dirt entry between the block and the drum - clean the mechanism.
- Poor quality pads - replace with original ones (
TRW GDB1465or analogues). - Drum misalignment — check the installation is correct.
If the creaking does not go away, contact the service for diagnostics.
Do I need to bleed my brakes after replacing the drum?
Bleeding is required only if:
- Have you removed the brake cylinder or hoses?
- A brake fluid leak was detected.
- Replaced the pads and cylinder at the same time.
If the drum was removed without intervention in the hydraulics, bleeding is not necessary. But check the fluid level in the reservoir!
How often should I check the condition of the drums on Rapid?
Recommended interval:
- Every 30,000 km - visual inspection for cracks and wear.
- Every 60,000 km - measuring the diameter and checking the runout.
- When replacing pads - mandatory drum diagnostics.
When driving aggressively or operating in high humidity conditions, intervals are reduced by 20–30%.