Car owners Skoda Rapid Often faced with the need to service rear brakes, since this is where drum systems are used. Unlike disc brakes, the design here is more closed and requires a careful approach when disassembling. Incorrect operation may damage the handbrake cables or the hub itself.
The process of removing the drum on this model has its own characteristics associated with the design of the fastening and the presence of specific springs. Many beginners make the mistake of trying to knock the drum down with a hammer without first preparing it, which results in cracks in the cast metal. To avoid unnecessary costs and nerves, it is necessary to strictly follow the technological sequence of actions.
Preparing the workplace and necessary tools
Before starting work, it is important to ensure security and access to all nodes. You will need a reliable jack, bodyrests and a set of keys. Pay special attention to cleanliness: dirt that gets inside the drum when removed can accelerate the wear of brake pads.
To successfully dismantle, you will need the following tools and materials:
- ๐ง Set of ratchet wrenches and sockets (including
13and10mm) - ๐จ A rubber-headed hammer or a wooden beam
- ๐งผ Means for removing rust (type WD-40) and brush for metal
- ๐ ๏ธ Special lift for drums or long bolt M12
Do not forget to prepare a container for collecting brake dust, which will inevitably appear when removing old parts. This dust is harmful to health, so it is advisable to work in gloves and a respirator.
Removing the wheel and preparing the brake assembly
Lift the back of the car, remove the wheel and securely fix the body on the stands. Do not rely on the hydraulics of the jack in any case. Examine the brake mechanism through holes in the drum or wheel disc to assess the degree of corrosion.
If the mechanism is heavily contaminated, first clean it from the outside with a brush. Then the handbrake cable must be loosened. This is a critical stage, as the tension of the cable will not allow you to remove the drum, even if all the bolts are unscrewed. In some cases, access under the bottom is required for the adjustment nut.
Use a special tool to unscrew the adjustment mechanism through the technological holes. Rotate it until the pads are pushed as far inward as possible.
โ ๏ธ Warning: Do not try to break the boiling drum until you make sure that the handbar cable is completely weakened. Otherwise, you risk breaking the cable or damaging the adjustment mechanism.
- Special puller
- Long bolt.
- Hammer and screwdriver
- Not shot yet.
Elimination of sticking and dismantling of the drum
The most difficult part of the process is to remove the drum that has been stuck to the hub due to oxidation. After unscrewing the central bolt (if any) and weakening the cable, try gently shaking the drum with your hands. If it does not yield, do not use excessive force immediately.
Treat the place of adhesion of the drum to the hub with a rust remedy. Give the tool time to penetrate the microcracks. Then use the removable: screw the bolts into the technological holes on the drum and evenly tighten them, creating a push force.
If there is no removable, you can use the method with a long bolt: insert it into the central hole of the hub and, resting on the drum, rotate the bolt head, creating pressure. This method requires caution not to break the thread.
- ๐จ Apply light blows with a rubber hammer on the outer diameter of the drum, trying not to get on the friction surfaces.
- ๐ ๏ธ Use a mounting blade for gently smacking the drum in the gap.
- ๐งด Re-apply the lubrication to the contact area if the vibration does not help.
โ๏ธ Check before removal
โ ๏ธ Warning: When using a hammer, only hit the cast part of the drum, avoiding hitting the brake pads and the drive mechanism so as not to damage fragile parts.
What to do if the drum is not removed at all?
If standard methods do not help, you can try to heat the outer rim of the drum with a building hair dryer or burner (with caution) to expand the metal. However, this is a risky method, as overheating can deform the hub or damage bearings. It is best to use a removable with a large screw stroke.
Design features of the mechanism on the Skoda Rapid
Brake system Skoda Rapid It has its own design nuances that distinguish it from other models of the VAG concern. For example, the spring clips are specifically located here, and their improper dismantling can lead to the loss of small parts. Particular attention should be paid to elastic springs that hold the pads.
Unlike older models, it often uses a self-regulating mechanism that requires careful handling when disassembling. Try not to lose plastic fixtures and spacer bars. They often break down when taken out.
Pay attention to the condition of the guiding fingers and anthers. If they are worn out, replacing the drum makes no sense without comprehensive repair of the unit. It is critically important to check the condition of the handbrake cable before starting work, since its jamming is the most common reason for the inability to remove the drum.
The table below shows the main differences and parameters for the Rapid model:
| Parameter | Value for Skoda Rapid | Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Brake type | Drums | Adjustment through the hatch |
| Drum fastening | Self-pushing/Bolt | Often without a central bolt |
| The spring of the pads | Upper and lower | High tension force |
| Handbrake cable | One on the axle. | Underfloor adjustment |
Before completely removing the drum, take a picture of the location of the springs and levers on the phone. This will help in the reverse assembly to avoid errors with tension.
Diagnostics and replacement of worn parts
After removing the drum, you will have full access to the internal components. Examine the brake pads for wear of the friction layer. If the thickness of the lining is less than 1.5-2 mm, replacement is necessary. Also check the condition of the working cylinder for leakage of brake fluid.
Clean all parts of dust and dirt using compressed air (at the very least, a brush). Check the hub for rust and production. If there are deep grooves on the surface of the hub, this can cause the drum to beat when set back.
Replace all springs and fixtures with new ones, as old parts often lose their elasticity and do not provide proper pad pressing. Savings on these little things can lead to the rapid failure of a new set of pads.
- ๐ Check the cylinder for oil or brake fluid leaks.
- ๐ ๏ธ Replace all rubber seals and anthers.
- ๐งน Clean the guide slats and lubricate them with a special high-temperature lubricant.
Replacement of all springs and fixators with each replacement of pads is the key to reliable operation of the brake system and the absence of extraneous noise.
Correct assembly and adjustment of the hand brake
The assembly of the mechanism is carried out in reverse sequence. Install new pads, springs and spacer bar, making sure that all details are securely fixed. Before putting on the drum, lubricate the contact points of the hub with a thin layer of copper lubricant to avoid fuming in the future.
Set the drum and check the free rotation of the wheel. If the drum touches the pads, it is necessary to adjust the gap through the technological hole using a screwdriver and adjusting lever. The wheel should rotate freely without any extraneous sounds.
It is important to adjust the handbrake cable. Nana Skoda Rapid This is usually done under the car. Tighten the nut until the handbrake fixes the car at 3-4 clicks of the lever. Too much tension will lead to rapid wear of the pads and overheating of the drums.
After the work is completed, be sure to check the brakes on the safe section of the road. Make sure the car stops smoothly and without distortion.
Common assembly errors
Most often, when assembly, they forget to install a plastic latch of the handbrake lever or incorrectly stretch the lower spring. This leads to the fact that the pads spontaneously open and wash off the drum.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Do I need to remove the drum to replace the pads?
Yes, on Skoda Rapid With drum brakes, access to the pads is possible only after removing the drum itself. This is the standard procedure for rear axle maintenance.
What if the drum is not removed even after the WD-40 treatment?
Try using a removable for drums, screwing it into special holes. If there is no skipper, gently tap a rubber hammer on the outer circumference, alternating the beats with attempts to tamper with the drum spatula. Heating can also help, but requires caution.
How to check the wear of the shoe without removing the drum?
Through the technological hole in the upper part of the drum, you can visually assess the thickness of the friction lining using a flashlight. If the layer is thin, a complete disassembly will be required.
What lubricant should I use for the hub?
It is recommended to use copper lubricant or special high-temperature lubricant for brake systems. Conventional lithium oil can leak out or boil when heated.