Drum brakes on the rear axle Škoda Rapid - a classic solution for budget models, combining simplicity of design and reliability. However, even such “indestructible” components require attention: wear of the pads, corrosion of the drums or jamming of the mechanism can turn braking into a lottery. In this article we will look at how choose the right pads for Rapid (including restyled versions), when to change them, and why saving on spare parts will result here accelerated wear of wheel bearings and an increase in braking distance by 30–40%.

Owners Rapid are often faced with a dilemma: take original pads at a price of 3,500 rubles per set or analogues from ATE, TRW or Bosch for 1,800–2,500 rubles? We analyzed reviews from forums skoda-club.ru and drive2.ru, compared the resource of budget and premium options, and also collected step-by-step replacement instructions taking into account typical mistakes. For example, did you know that incorrect installation of springs on pads leads to uneven wear and vibrations when braking? More on this and much more below.

Design of rear drum brakes on the Škoda Rapid

On all versions Škoda Rapid (including facelift 2017) the rear axle is equipped drum brakes with automatic clearance adjustment. Unlike disc systems, here the pads are pressed against the inner surface of the drum under the action of hydraulic cylinders. Key design elements:

  • 🔧 Brake drum — cast iron or aluminum (depending on the configuration), with a diameter of 200–230 mm. On restyled models, a ventilated version can be installed.
  • 🛠️ Pads — paired, with friction linings. The original ones have a catalog number 6R0698451A (left) and 6R0698452A (right).
  • 🔄 Automatic adjustment mechanism — maintains an optimal gap between the pads and the drum, preventing “braking.”
  • 🔗 Springs and retainers - keep the pads in the correct position. Their deformation or corrosion is a common cause of squeaks.

Feature Rapid: on machines with ESP installed in the drum ABS sensor, which can fail if the pads are not replaced carefully. The design also provides hand brake, the cables of which often stick due to dirt. This leads to incomplete release of the wheels - symptoms: the car “steers” to the side, the drums get warm.

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If after replacing the pads the handbrake stops holding, check the cable tension through the adjuster oval bolt under the plastic plug in the passenger compartment (next to the parking brake lever).

Signs of drum pad wear: when to change?

The manufacturer recommends checking the condition of the pads every 30,000 km, but actual service life depends on driving style and operating conditions. For example, in the urban cycle with frequent braking, the pads wear out 2-3 times faster than on the highway. Look out for the following symptoms:

  • ⚠️ Increased braking distance - if the car slows down slowly, especially on a wet road.
  • 🔊 Creaks or knocks when you press the pedal - a sign of thinning of the friction layer or sand getting between the block and the drum.
  • 🔥 Overheating of the rear wheels — after the ride, the drums are hot to the touch (normal: slightly warm).
  • 🚗 Beating or vibration when braking - indicates drum deformation or uneven wear of the pads.
  • 🛑 Parking brake doesn't hold — even at maximum incline the car rolls down.

Critical wear occurs when the thickness of the friction layer of the pad decreases to 1.5–2 mm. This can be checked through the inspection window in the brake mechanism shield (if provided) or after removing the drum. On Škoda Rapid 2013–2016 model years often have a defect: the pads wear out in a “wedge” - one side wears out faster than the other due to the skew of the support pin.

📊 How often do you check the condition of your rear brakes?
  • Every 10,000 km
  • Only when symptoms appear
  • Once a year before maintenance
  • Never checked
⚠️ Attention: If deep grooves or “steps” appear on the inner surface of the drum, the pads and drum must be replaced as a set. Ignoring this rule will lead to accelerated wear of the new pads and the risk of wheel seizure.

Choice of pads: original vs analogues

Original pads from Škoda (articles 6R0698451A/6R0698452A) cost from 3,500 rubles per set for both axles. They guarantee perfect compatibility and a service life of up to 50,000 km, but many owners prefer analogues from trusted brands. Below is a comparison table of popular options:

Brand Article Price per set (rubles) Resource (thousand km) Features
Škoda (original) 6R0698451A/2A 3 500–4 200 40–50 Optimal friction coefficient, minimal drum wear
ATE 13.0460-7167.2 2 800–3 300 35–45 Improved heat resistance, suitable for aggressive riding
TRW GDB1645 2 500–3 000 30–40 Soft linings, less noise, but wear out faster
Bosch 0 986 494 620 2 200–2 700 30–35 Budget option, squeaks are possible at low temperatures
Ferodo FDB1645 2 000–2 400 25–30 Low price, but drums often require grooving after replacement

When choosing analogues, pay attention to ECE R90 certification is a guarantee of compliance with European safety standards. Cheap pads without a certificate (for example, from LPR or Patron) may have an unstable coefficient of friction, which will lead to unpredictable braking in emergency situations.

How to distinguish a fake?

Counterfeit pads often come in packaging without holograms, with blurred barcodes or typos in the article numbers. Pay attention to the quality of the friction material: in the originals it is uniform, without cracks or foreign inclusions. Also check for the presence of a protective film on metal parts - counterfeit products usually do not have it.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing pads

Replacing drum pads with Škoda Rapid requires a minimum set of tools: a jack, a wheel wrench, pliers, a flathead screwdriver and special puller for tension springs (can be replaced with a homemade wire hook). Work is performed on a flat surface with the handbrake engaged. Algorithm of actions:

  1. Loosen the rear wheel nuts, jack up the car and remove the wheel.

  2. Unscrew the two drum guide bolts (usually a wrench Torx T30 or asterisk). If the drum is stuck, gently tap it along the edge with a rubber mallet.

  3. Remove the drum. If it does not come off, check that the handbrake is fully released. If necessary, loosen the cable tension through the adjusting bolt in the passenger compartment.

  4. Using pliers, remove the upper and lower tension springs, then the retaining pins from the support pins.

  5. Install new pads, having first applied to the contact points copper grease (for example, LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste). This will prevent corrosion and squeaks.

  6. Reassemble the mechanism in reverse order. After installing the drum, press the brake pedal several times until the pads are in working position.

Loosen the handbrake cables|Prepare new pads and lubricant|Check the drum for cracks|Clean the guides from dirt|Have a spring puller on hand-->

Typical replacement mistakes:

  • 🚫 Ignoring handbrake adjustment — after installing new pads, it needs to be tightened.
  • 🚫 Lack of lubrication at contact points - leads to squeaks and accelerated wear.
  • 🚫 Mixing up left and right pads — they are not interchangeable due to the different shapes of the friction linings.
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After replacing the pads, be sure to check the brake fluid level - it may drop due to squeezing out the pistons in the cylinders.

Grooving drums: when is it needed and how to do it?

If there are signs on the inner surface of the drum deep furrows (more than 0.5 mm), unevenness or “steps”, it must be sharpened or replaced. Grooving is cheaper (from 800 rubles per drum), but it only makes sense if the residual wall thickness is at least 8–9 mm (minimum permissible value is 7 mm).

The procedure is performed on a lathe using special mandrels. Important:

  • 🔧 Grooving is carried out in pairs - both drums must have the same diameter.
  • 📏 After processing, the runout is checked - the permissible value is no more than 0.05 mm.
  • 🔄 After grooving, the pads must be replaced with new ones, as they will “grind” to the renewed surface.

If the drum has cracks or its thickness is less than 7 mm, grooving is prohibited - only replacement. On Rapid original drums go under the article number 6R0615601A (left) and 6R0615602A (right), cost - from 4,000 rubles per piece. Analogues from ATE or TRW will cost 2,500–3,000 rubles.

⚠️ Attention: After grinding or replacing the drums, avoid sharp braking for the first 200–300 km - the pads need time to break in. During this period, the braking distance may increase by 10–15%.

Brake system maintenance: how to extend the life of your pads?

Drum pad service life Škoda Rapid can be increased by 20–30% if you follow simple recommendations:

  • 🚗 Avoid prolonged lag On the slopes - use the engine braking.
  • 💦 Wash your brakes After driving through mud or salt, corrosion accelerates wear.
  • 🔧 Check the condition of the handbrake cables every 15,000 km - sticking leads to incomplete release of the brakes.
  • 🛢️ Use quality brake fluid (for example, DOT 4 from Castrol or Motul) and change it every 2 years.

Also note driving style: Frequent accelerations and sharp braking in the urban cycle reduce the life of the pads by 2–3 times. The optimal mode is smooth braking with preliminary release of gas.

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If you notice that after washing the car the brakes have become worse, drive 5–10 km with light pressure on the pedal - this will remove moisture from the pads and drums.

Common problems and their solutions

Owners Škoda Rapid often encounter typical rear brake problems. Let's look at the most common ones:

Problem Reason Solution
Creaking noise when braking Worn pads, corroded guides or lack of lubrication Replace pads, clean and lubricate contact points
The car is “driving” to the side Uneven pad wear or piston jamming in the cylinder Check the condition of the cylinders, replace the pads with a pair
The handbrake doesn't hold Stretched cables or worn pads Adjust cable tension or replace pads
Vibrations when braking Drum deformation or hub runout Grind the drum or replace it, check the wheel bearing

If after replacing the pads there is extraneous noise (for example, a metallic grinding sound) is most likely not installed anti-squeak plate or the pads are not properly seated. In this case, re-disassembling and checking the assembly will help.

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to put chocks on only one wheel?

No, the pads are always changed in pairs on the same axis. Otherwise, an imbalance of braking forces will occur, which will lead to the car pulling to the side when braking and uneven wear of the drums.

How often should the guides be lubricated?

It is recommended to renew the lubrication of the contact points of the pads and support pins every 20,000–30,000 km or every time the drum is removed. Use high temperature lubricants on a copper or ceramic base.

What to do if the drum cannot be removed?

If the drum is stuck, try:

  1. Loosen the handbrake cable until it stops.
  2. Apply a penetrating lubricant (eg WD-40) at the junction of the drum and the hub.
  3. Gently tap the drum in a circle with a rubber mallet.
  4. If it doesn’t help, use a puller or contact service.
Which pads are best for aggressive driving?

For a dynamic driving style, pads with increased friction coefficient and heat resistance up to 600°C. Recommended brands: ATE PremiumOne or Brembo. They are more expensive (from 4,000 rubles per set), but can withstand high loads without loss of efficiency.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

Bleeding the brake system is only required if you disconnected the brake hoses or replaced the cylinders. Bleeding is not necessary for normal pad replacement, but check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.