ŠKODA Octavia A5 (2004–2013) is one of the most popular models of the Czech brand on the secondary market, but its weak point is often the thresholds. Owners are faced with corrosion, mechanical damage and the need to replace these elements. In this article we will look at everything you need to know about thresholds Octavia A5: from catalog numbers to step-by-step repair instructions.
Thresholds are not only an aesthetic element of the body, but also an important part of the design that affects the rigidity of the car. Their damage can lead to the spread of rust to the side members and other power elements. Thresholds are especially vulnerable in models with a mileage of over 150 thousand km or when used in regions with aggressive winter chemicals.
Catalog numbers and threshold sizes ŠKODA Octavia A5
Before purchasing new thresholds, it is important to know their original part numbers and sizes. For Octavia A5 (including restyled versions) the following parts are used:
- 🔧 Left threshold (front):
1Z6 807 101 A(until 2009) /1Z6 807 101 B(after 2009) - 🔧 Right threshold (front):
1Z6 807 102 A/1Z6 807 102 B - 🔧 Rear threshold booster (left/right):
1Z6 807 105/106 - 🔧 Threshold trim (plastic):
1Z6 853 713/714(set)
The threshold length is ~1400 mm (front) and ~600 mm (rear amplifier). When purchasing analogues (for example, Febi, Meyle or Topran) check the dimensions - some manufacturers supply parts with deviations of up to 5–10 mm.
Please note: thresholds for Octavia A5 with bodies liftback and station wagon (Combi) identical, but different from the parts for Octavia A4 or Octavia A7.
- Original (haven't changed it yet)
- Already replaced with new ones
- Costs are similar (non-original)
- No problems yet
Causes and signs of damage to thresholds
The main factors leading to wear of the thresholds:
- 🌧️ Corrosion: exposure to salt, sand and moisture (especially in winter).
- 🚗 Mechanical damage: bumps when parking, scratches from curbs.
- 🔥 Poor anti-corrosion treatment at the factory (typical for early batches Octavia A5).
- 🔧 Poor quality repairs: Use of non-original parts or improper welding.
How to recognize the problem:
| Sign | Possible reason | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Blistering paint or rust spots | Initial stage of corrosion | Local anticorrosive treatment or replacement of the area |
| Creaks or knocking noises when driving | Threshold amplifier peeling | Diagnostics of welds, replacement if necessary |
| Visible holes or severe deformation | Critical corrosion or impact | Complete replacement of the threshold with restoration of body geometry |
Important: if rust has eaten through the threshold, replacement must be carried out as soon as possible - this threatens safety in the event of an accident.
Before buying used Octavia A5 be sure to check the thresholds with a magnet: if it does not stick to the bottom, there is already a “patch” made of fiberglass or putty there.
Selection of spare parts: original vs analogues
When replacing thresholds, owners Octavia A5 are faced with a dilemma: to buy original parts or analogues. Let's look at the pros and cons of each option.
Original thresholds (ŠKODA/VW):
- ✅ Perfect fit, no problems with fitting.
- ✅ Guaranteed quality of metal and anti-corrosion coating.
- ❌ Price: from 8,000 to 12,000 rub. for one side (excluding work).
Analogues (Febi, Meyle, Topran):
- ✅ The cost is 2–3 times lower than the original (from 3,000 rub.).
- ✅ Often supplied with primer already applied.
- ❌ There may be problems with metal thickness or geometry (especially for budget brands).
If your budget is limited, you can consider analogues from Febi Bilstein (article 22210 for the left threshold) - they have proven themselves well among owners Octavia A5. To be completely sure, check the dimensions of the part with the original before purchasing.
Where to buy thresholds cheaper?
The best prices are usually offered by trusted online stores such as Exist.ru, Autodoc or Emex. You can also look for used parts at disassembly sites, but the risk of running into rusty thresholds is very high.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing thresholds
Replacing sills is a labor-intensive process that requires welding and bodywork skills. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to contact a specialized car service. Below is a sequence of actions for those who decide to do the repairs themselves.
Required tools:
☑️ Preparing to replace thresholds
Stages of work:
- Removing the old threshold:
Using a grinder, carefully cut off the damaged threshold, leaving 2–3 cm from the weld for further adjustment. Remove any remaining rust and old welding.
- Preparing a new part:
Try on the new threshold and adjust it to size if necessary. Treat the inner surface with an anti-corrosion agent (for example, ML-mastic or Dinitrol).
- Welding:
Tack the threshold in several places, then weld the seams with a continuous seam. Pay special attention to the joints with the side members and struts.
- Putty and painting:
Fill the uneven areas, sand the surface and paint the sill in the body color. Don't forget to treat the internal cavity with anti-gravel.
Tip: If you change the thresholds yourself, take a photo of the disassembly process - this will help you put everything back together correctly.
High-quality welding is the key to the durability of the threshold. If the seams are not welded tightly, moisture will quickly return and corrosion will begin again.
Anti-corrosion treatment: how to protect thresholds for a long time
Even new thresholds require additional protection. Without proper treatment, they will begin to rust within 2–3 years. Let's look at the most effective methods:
- 🛡️ ML-mastic: applied to the inner surface of the threshold. Creates an elastic layer that prevents moisture penetration.
- 🔥 Anti-gravel (for example, Body 930): protects the outside from chips and scratches.
- 🧴 Liquid plastic: Used for processing weld seams.
- 🔧 Galvanization: if the thresholds are new, you can additionally galvanize them before painting.
Processing process:
- Clean the threshold from dirt and degrease the surface.
- Apply anti-corrosion compound with a brush or spray (for internal cavities use
sprayer with long nozzle). - After drying, cover the outside with anti-gravel.
- Check the tightness: all openings must be closed.
It is recommended to repeat the treatment every 2–3 years, especially if the car is operated in aggressive conditions.
To check the quality of anti-corrosion treatment, use an endoscope - it will help you see the hidden cavities of the threshold.
Common mistakes when repairing thresholds
Many owners Octavia A5 encounter problems after replacing thresholds due to mistakes made. Here are the most common of them:
⚠️ Attention: if not used for welding carbon dioxide (CO₂), the seams will be porous and will quickly rust.
- 🔥 Using metal that is too thin in analogues, the threshold is deformed under load.
- 🧴 Skipping anti-corrosion treatment internal cavities.
- 🎨 Painting without primer - the paint will peel off quickly.
- 🔧 Incorrect geometry after welding - this may affect the operation of the doors.
Another critical mistake is ignoring threshold amplifiers. Many people change only the outer panel, forgetting about the internal elements, which are also susceptible to corrosion. This leads to rust appearing again after a year or two.
To avoid problems, trust repairs only to trusted professionals, or carefully follow the instructions if you do everything yourself.
Cost of work in car services
Threshold replacement price ŠKODA Octavia A5 depends on the region, the complexity of the work and the selected spare parts. Below is the approximate price:
| Type of work | Cost (RUB) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Replacement of one threshold (with painting) | 15 000 – 25 000 | Includes welding, putty and anti-corrosion |
| Replacing both thresholds | 25 000 – 40 000 | Often a discount is given for a set of works |
| Local repair (patch) | 5 000 – 10 000 | Suitable for small rust areas |
| Anti-corrosion treatment | 3 000 – 7 000 | Includes treatment with ML mastic and anti-gravel |
In Moscow and St. Petersburg, prices are 20–30% higher than in the regions. The cost also depends on the type of welding: spot it will cost less, but continuous seam more reliable.
If you plan to sell your car, completely replacing the sills with painting can increase its value by 30–50 thousand rubles., since buyers pay attention to the condition of the body.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about thresholds ŠKODA Octavia A5
Is it possible to drive with rusty sills?
Short term - yes, but it is dangerous. Corrosion weakens the body structure, which can lead to deformation in an accident. If the rust is through, it is better not to delay replacement.
How long does it take to replace thresholds?
In the service, work takes 1–2 days (depending on volume). Replacing it yourself can take up to a week, especially if painting is required.
Is it possible to restore thresholds without welding?
Yes, but this is a temporary solution. For small areas use fiberglass or epoxy resin, but such repairs will last no more than 1–2 years.
Which thresholds are better: original or from Febi?
The original ones are more reliable, but Febi offers good price-quality ratio. The main thing is to check the thickness of the metal (must be at least 0.8 mm).
Do new thresholds need to be treated with anticorrosive?
Yes, even original sills often have a weak factory coating. Processing ML-mastic or Dinitrol will extend their service life by 2–3 times.