Disassembling the door ล koda Yeti The task faced by owners when replacing a speaker, window or repairing electrical equipment. Despite the apparent simplicity, the process requires accuracy: plastic clips are fragile, and the wiring can be clamped if removed incorrectly. In this article, detailed analysis of photos of stages, a list of tools and Unique tips for working with door mechanisms of a particular model (including differences for restyled versions of 2013+).
We will not only consider the standard procedure for removing the skin, but also pitfallsHow not to break the lock latch, why the glass creaks after assembly, and where exactly the drainage hole that often clogs is hiding. The instructions are suitable for all bodies. Yeti (including Yeti Outdoor) but with reservations for and without electric doors.
Preparation: Tools and Safety Precautions
Before starting work, make sure you have everything you need. The absence of even one tool can damage plastic elements. Here. minimum set:
- ๐ง Plastic clip remover (or a car panel kit) - metal screwdrivers break latches!
- ๐ฉ Torx T20 and T25 - for screws mounting handle and speaker (in restyled versions can be T30).
- โก Multimeter Checking the wiring in case of electrical problems.
- ๐ธ Smartphone Take pictures of the location of the clips and connectors before dismantling.
- ๐งด Silicone grease - for processing of guide glass and mechanisms after assembly.
Pay special attention security:
- โก Turn off the battery if you are working with electrical wiring (it is enough to remove the negative terminal).
- ๐ Wear safety glasses โ springs and clips can fly out when dismantled.
- ๐ซ Do not disassemble the door at temperatures below +5 ยฐC: the plastic becomes brittle.
โ ๏ธ Attention: If your Yeti equipped with a system Keyless EntryBefore you turn off the battery, make sure the key is in place. outside-range (Otherwise, the alarm may be triggered when reconnected.)
- Until 2013 (pre-facelift)
- 2013-2017 (restyle)
- I don't know
- I have a different model
Removing the door trim: step-by-step instructions
Letโs start with the most difficult thing โ removing the plastic panel. The main mistake of beginners is an attempt to tear the skin โwith a spurtโ. So you break the clips and leave traces on the plastic. The correct algorithm:
Remove the decorative handle trim (from the salon side). Put her in the dashboard. top edge - There's a groove. There's a screw in the pad.
Torx T20(on the restyled versions -T25).Unscrew the screws:
- 1 screw under the handle lining;
- 1 screw in the lower corner of the skin (under a plastic cap);
- 2 screws on the sides under (if there are electric lifts).
Unplug the opening handle. It is attached to two plastic latches. Carefully pull it on yourself, then move it upwards - so you will avoid breaking the fixers.
Remove the trim. Start with bottom corner (from the loop) - there are clips weaker. Move around the perimeter, gradually releasing the latches. If the skin is not coming, check if all screws are unscrewed!
After removing the casing you will see plastic-film - it's waterproofing. Don't tear her! Bend carefully to access the mechanisms. Water often accumulates under the film - dry the insides if you find moisture.
Negative battery terminal disconnected|
The location of the clips has been photographed|
All screws (including hidden ones) checked
Prepared space for storage of small parts ->
Features of working with door mechanisms
After removing the skin, you will encounter three-nodes:
Window lifter. B Yeti used cable mechanism (before 2013) or rack and pinion (after facelift) Cable lifts are more likely to fail due to stretching of the cable or jamming of rollers. Racks are more reliable, but sensitive to contamination of guides.
Door locker. It is integrated micro-switch responsible for signaling the open door. Do not pull the wires when disassembling - they are soldered to the board and easily come off!
Speaker. It's on 3 screws.
Torx T20. When replacing the speaker, check o-ring Its absence leads to creaking and vibrations.
If you need to get to window regulatorTake the glass off first. For this:
- Lower the glass to its lowest position.
- Secure it with tape in two places (so that it does not fall when the mechanism is dismantled).
- Unscrew two bolts of mounting glass to the lift (key on the
10 mm). - Carefully remove the glass through the upper doorway.
โ ๏ธ Attention: In doors with electric lifts after removing the glass don't press the buttons This can damage the motor if it continues to work without loading.
How to check the operation of the window lift motor?
Connect the battery and apply the voltage directly to the contacts of the motor (12V). If it doesn't rotate, check the brushes or replace the knot. Please note: in Yeti After 2015, the motors are indissoluble - they are completely changed.
Typical problems and their solutions
When breaking doors ล koda Yeti Owners are most often faced with the following problems:
| Problem | Reason | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Screaming when glass moves | Pollution of guides or wear of sealer | Clean the guides with alcohol, lubricate with silicone lubricant, replace the sealant |
| The door is not locked. | Breakdown of a micro-switch in a lock or a wire break | Call the wiring with a multimeter, replace the switch (article: 5J0 837 015) |
| Water inside the door | A clogged drainage hole at the bottom of the door | Clean the hole with wire, blow with compressed air |
| The speaker wheezes | Corrosion of contacts or damage to the diffuser | Clean contacts, replace the speaker (original: 5J0 035 466) |
Deserves special attention drainage. At the bottom of the door (on the side of the threshold) there is a small hole closed with a rubber plug. If it is clogged, water accumulates inside, which leads to:
- ๐ Corrosion of mechanisms;
- ๐ Dynamic failure;
- โก Closing the wiring.
To clear the drain:
- Remove the rubber cap (plug it with a screwdriver).
- Blow the hole with compressed air or rinse with pressure water.
- Check if the drainage tube inside the door is clogged (sometimes it is clamped by a wire harness).
If the door closes with cotton after assembly, check it out. latch adjustment. Often the problem is solved by pulling the screw on the back of the lock (on the body rack).
Replacement of windows: nuances for Yeti
If your window is out of order, it is important to choose the right replacement. V ล koda Yeti two types of mechanisms are used:
- ๐ Cable (until 2013, the article:
5J1 837 701/702) is cheaper but less reliable; - โ๏ธ Rack and pinion (after 2013, the article:
5J2 837 701/702) more expensive, but more resource.
Replacement process:
- Remove the cladding and glass (as described above).
- Unscrew 3 bolts of the mechanism attachment to the door (key on the door)
10 mm). - Disconnect the power connector (on the electric lifts).
- Install a new mechanism, pre-lubricating the guides.
When installing a rack lift, pay attention to gear-position - it should be engaged with the rake without distortion. If after assembly the glass moves in jerks, check:
- Lubrication of guides;
- Tightening of the mounting bolts;
- Integrity of plastic rollers (they often crack over time).
โ ๏ธ Attention: In doors with electric lifts after the change of the mechanism may be necessary calibration. To do this, lower the glass to the lowest position, then hold the button "down" for 5 seconds - so errors in the control unit will be dropped.
Working with electricity: circuits and connectors
Electrical wiring in the doors Yeti organized flexible harnessIt runs through a rubber corrugated between the door and the counter. When disassembling, it is important not to damage the wires - their replacement is laborious and requires the removal of the front wing.
The main connectors you will encounter:
- ๐ X1 power window (4 contacts: +12V, weight, control up / down);
- ๐ X2 2 contacts, polarity is important!
- ๐ X3 - blocker and micro-switch (5 contacts, includes an open door signal).
If after assembly the windows buttons stopped working, check:
- Fuse integrity
F37(15A) in the steering block; - Stress on the connector
X1(There must be 12B between 1 and 2 contacts) - Mass wire state (often oxidized under the skin).
To diagnose a door blocker, use a multimeter in vertebrae mode:
- Closed door between 3 and 5 contacts
X3there must be resistance; - When it's open, infinity.
If the sound is quieter after the speaker is replaced, check the polarity of the connection. Incorrect phasing leads to mutual quenching of the sound with other speakers.
Door assembly: procedure and check
The assembly is done in reverse order, but there are several critical moments:
Check the drainage hole It should be clean and open.
Install the waterproofing film No creases. If it is torn, replace it (article:
5J0 837 151).Secure all the clips. before the click. Unpressed latches will lead to creaking.
Check the operation of the mechanisms until final assembly:
- Lower/lift the glass 2-3 times;
- Close/open the door by checking the blocker.
- Turn on the music to make sure the speaker is working.
After assembly be sure to adjust:
- ๐ง Castle The door should be closed without cotton, but not "wander";
- ๐ Speaker - Tighten it evenly so that there are no distortions;
- ๐ Glass - it should move smoothly, without hooks.
If after assembly there were foreign sounds, disassemble the door again and check:
- The presence of foreign objects inside;
- The quality of the lubricant guides;
- Correct installation of the glass sealer.
FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions
Can I open the door Yeti without a clip shooter?
Theoretically yes, but the risk of damaging the skin or clips is extremely high. Plastic latches in Yeti fragile, especially after 5-7 years of operation. If there is no filmmaker, use it. plastic card (e.g., banking), but be careful. The alternative is to heat the clips with a hair dryer (plastic will become softer).
What kind of lubricant is better to process the mechanisms?
For guide glass and cables suitable silicone grease (for example, Liqui Moly Silicon-Fett). It does not attract dust and does not thicken in the cold. For rack mechanisms can be used molybdenum grease (for example, Molykote BR2 Plus). Do not use litol or solidol They will thicken and accelerate wear.
What if the central lock does not work after the disassembly?
First check:
- fuse
F23(10A) in the block under the hood; - Connector status
X3(Contacts 1 and 2 are often oxidized) - Configure the comfort unit (sometimes confused after the battery is turned off). To reset errors, open/close the door 3 times in a row.
If the problem remains, call the wiring from the door to the comfort unit (located under the dashboard on the driver's side).
Where to buy original clips for skinning?
Original clips for ล koda Yeti have an article number 5J0 868 241 (a set of 10 pieces). Alternatives:
- ๐ Febi Bilstein (article
26380) - of similar quality, cheaper by 30%; - ๐ Meyle (article
100 868 0001) - spare plugs are included; - ๐ On AliExpress (search for the phrase "Skoda Yeti door clips") - cheaper 5 times, but the quality of plastic is worse.
When purchasing, pay attention to clip-color - in the restyled versions they are black, in the pre-facelift - gray.
How to avoid squeaks after assembly?
Creaks occur due to:
- Friction of the plating against the metal Put between the contact points moleskine or special anti-scrip coatings;
- Incorrect installation of glass Make sure it does not catch the sealer;
- Dry guides - lubricate them with silicone lubricant;
- Weakened clips If the latches are not tightly fixed, replace them.
To prevent creaks, treat all plastic surfaces anti-squeak spray (for example, CRC Plastic Lube).