The braking system is a critical safety element of any vehicle, and Skoda Octavia Tour is no exception. Over time, the caliper guide pins begin to jam, and the O-rings lose their elasticity, which leads to uneven wear of the pads and overheating of the brake discs. Many owners are faced with the fact that after a trip the disk is red-hot on one side, and remains cold on the other, which indicates problems with operation. front caliper.
The solution to this problem is often not a complete replacement of the unit, but the timely installation of a high-quality front caliper repair kit. This is an economically feasible step that allows you to extend the life of expensive mechanisms and restore braking efficiency. However, the success of the event directly depends on the correct choice of spare parts and adherence to the disassembly and reassembly technology, which will be discussed below.
Why does the caliper fail on the Octavia Tour?
The main cause of malfunctions in the brake system Skoda Octavia Tour is an aggressive operating environment. Road salt, dirt, water and constant temperature changes erode protective layers and seals. The guide pins, which should slide freely in their seats, become corroded over time or simply become clogged with old, hardened grease.
When you press the brake pedal, a piston comes out of the housing, pressing the pad against the disc. When the pedal is released, the piston should return slightly due to the elasticity of the cuff. If the cuff is worn out or the guides are stuck, the pad continues to rub against the disc, causing overheating and wobbling of the steering wheel when braking. That's why repair kit replacement should be a planned procedure.
Drivers often ignore the characteristic creaking or howling noise when braking, attributing it to the quality of the pads. In fact, the sound may indicate that the guide pin has stopped moving and the caliper is acting as a monolithic structure, distorting the pad. This leads to rapid wear of both the pads and the brake disc.
In addition, older cars may experience brake fluid leakage due to damage to the piston boot. If fluid leaks, it not only reduces braking performance, but can also lead to complete system failure. Regular diagnosis of the condition calipers allows you to avoid such emergency situations.
Choosing a quality repair kit: brands and nuances
The auto parts market is overflowing with offers, and choosing the right one repair kit it can be difficult. For Skoda Octavia Tour It is critically important not to buy cheap analogues of unknown origin, as rubber in them often does not withstand high temperatures and aggressive chemistry of brake fluid. Cheap seals quickly lose shape, and the problem of jamming returns after a couple of thousand kilometers.
Experienced auto mechanics recommend targeting trusted manufacturers, such as TRW, ATE, Febi Bilstein or original VAG. Their kits use materials that meet the strict standards of the concern, which guarantees a long service life. Original remakes are often delivered in branded packages with articles matching your VIN code.
Pay attention to the composition of the kit. A good set should include not only rubber piston seals and guides, but also new anthers, pumping pin caps and, ideally, new guide fingers. Sometimes even when replacing rubber, old steel fingers already have micro-scratch marks that will break down new anthers.
When buying, be sure to check the availability of quality certificates and the integrity of the packaging. If the rubber in the kit has an unpleasant chemical smell or sticks to the hands, it is better to refuse the purchase - this is a sign of poor-quality raw materials. Remember that security Your car depends on the little things.
- Original VAG
- TRW
- ATE
- Textile
- Other
Necessary tools and preparatory stage
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare a workplace and a set of tools. You wonβt need complex hardware, but having specialized keys will speed up the process. Be sure to prepare a jack, car stands (never work under a car only on a jack!), a set of heads and rattles.
Pay special attention to lubricants. For the assembly of the caliper, it is strictly impossible to use ordinary lithium or graphite oil. You will need special high-temperature lubricants for guides and pistons. The usual lubricant can swell in contact with the brake fluid and jam the mechanism. Use only what is specified in the manufacturerβs instructions.
You may also need: passages, screwdrivers (including a flat one for removing locking rings), a brush for metal to clean parts from rust and a can of brake cleaner. Do not forget about the tank for draining old brake fluid, if you plan to replace it.
βοΈ Preparing to replace the caliper
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the repair kit
Start the process by removing the wheel. Examine the caliper, making sure there are no obvious leaks of fluid. Unscrew the bolts of the calipers guides. Usually it is two bolts at the bottom and top, but the design can vary depending on the modification of the braking system. Use the right size head to avoid tearing the edges.
Remove the caliper from the bracket, hang it on the wire to the suspension spring, so as not to damage the brake hose. Remove the brake pads and inspect their wear. If the wear is uneven (on the one hand more than on the other), this confirms the need for repair guides. Unscrew the guiding fingers and remove them from the body.
Now we need to remove the piston from the caliper. To do this, you can use a pneumatic tool or apply compressed air to the hose hole. Be extremely careful that the piston does not fly out with great force and does not damage the hands or parts. Place the wood under the piston for safety.
Clean all seats of old lubrication, dirt and traces of corrosion. Use a brake cleaner and brush. Examine the piston mirror and seal grooves β any deep scratches will require replacing the piston itself or the entire caliper. Install new sealing rings from the remplekt, prelubricating them with a special lubricant.
Collect the caliper in reverse order. Place your guiding fingers in the new anthers and grease them. Insert the piston in place, pressing it gently to the point. Set the pads and fix the caliper on the bracket. Tighten the bolts of the guides with the recommended tightening moment.
What are the dangers of improper lubrication?
If you use conventional lubrication, the rubber of the anthers and seals will swell, lose elasticity and collapse. This will lead to the entry of dust and moisture into the mechanism, rapid jamming of the finger and, as a result, overheating of the brake disc and reducing the effectiveness of braking.
β οΈ Attention! When working with the brake system, be extremely careful. Brake fluid is aggressive to paint coatings and rubber parts. If you spilled liquid on the body of the car or suspension rubber, immediately wash it off with plenty of water.
β οΈ Attention! Never press the brake pedal when the caliper is removed! This will result in the piston flying out of the body, which can cause damage to parts and injury to the hands, and will also require a complete pumping system.
Brake system bleeding and testing
After assembly of the caliper, it is necessary to make sure that there is no air in the hydraulic system. The air is compressed, which makes the brake pedal βsoftβ and reduces the effectiveness of braking. The pumping process can be performed manually with an assistant or using a special vacuum pump. Open the pumping fitting by pressing the pedal, and remove the air bubbles until a clear liquid without bubbles appears.
Check the level of brake fluid in the tank under the hood. It should be between the Min and Max markings. If the level has fallen below the minimum, add liquid of the same brand that is already poured into the system. Mixing different types of liquids (e.g. DOT 3 and DOT 4) is not recommended, although in emergency cases it is permissible, but it is best to avoid it.
Before leaving for the road, be sure to conduct a test stop at a safe area. The pedal should be elastic, without failures. When pressed, there should be no extraneous sounds or vibrations. Check the parking brake, as it is integrated into the caliper on some models.
Before starting the movement, press the brake pedal several times until the pistons take the working position after replacing the pads. Otherwise, the first brake path may be too long.
Common replacement mistakes and how to avoid them
One of the most common mistakes is to use the wrong lubricant. As mentioned earlier, the usual lubricant destroys the rubber. The second mistake is ignoring the state of the guides. If the finger has traces of corrosion, even a new remap will not save you from a quick jamming. The finger should move easily and smoothly.
Drivers often forget to clean seats. The dirt left under the new seal will act as an abrasive, quickly erasing rubber. The third mistake is the wrong tightening of the bolts. Too weak a puff will lead to loosening of the caliper and knocking, and too strong can break the thread in the aluminum case.
Donβt forget to check the condition of the brake hose. If it has cracks or bloating, it must be replaced along with the caliper repair. The old hose can burst under pressure, resulting in instantaneous loss of brakes. This is especially true for cars with a high mileage.
Proper lubrication and cleanliness of seats is the key to the durability of repair of the caliper. Savings on quality materials will result in re-repair in a short time.
| Fault type | Possible reason | Recommended Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Creaking noise when braking | Wear of pads or guides | Replacement of the remake and pads |
| Steering beat during braking | Overheating and disk deformation | Disc replacement and caliper repair |
| The car pulls to the side | Single caliper jamming | Checking and lubricating guides |
| Brake whistle | Absence of damping plates | Installation of new records |
| Soft brake pedal | Air entering the system | Bleeding the brake system |
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can only one front caliper remake be replaced?
Technically possible, but not recommended. If one caliper is worn, then the second is in a similar state. Replacing just one can lead to uneven braking. It is better to change the kits on both sides at the same time.
How often should I change the caliphate remake?
It is recommended to conduct diagnostics at each replacement of brake pads. The remix itself usually serves 80-100 thousand kilometers, but in severe winter and the use of reagents, the service life can be reduced to 40-50 thousand kilometers.
Do I need to change the brake fluid when repairing the caliper?
Preferably. When repairing the caliper, you open the system and air can get into the main line. Also, the old liquid absorbs moisture over time. If more than 2 years have passed since the last replacement, it is better to drain the old one and fill the new one.
What to do if the piston is not pressed back in?
Don't use brute force. The piston may have jammed due to corrosion or contamination. Try to gently rock it, but if it doesnβt help, you may need to replace the piston or the entire caliper assembly.
Can I use a remake from another Skoda model?
No, the size and shape of seals may vary even within the same brand. Always check the part number with your vehicle's VIN or use the manufacturer's original catalogs.