Repair kit for rear drum brakes Škoda Octavia Tour: selection and replacement

Rear drum brakes on Škoda Octavia Tour is a reliable but attention-requiring system. Over time, the pads wear out, the springs lose their elasticity, and the working cylinders begin to leak. If you notice squeaking, reduced braking performance, or uneven wear, it's time to consider replacing your repair kit. But how to choose high-quality spare parts and not overpay? And is it possible to cope with the replacement yourself?

In this article we will look at everything you need to know about rear drum brake repair kits for Octavia Tour (including models A5, A7 and restyled versions). You'll learn which brands are trustworthy, how to avoid common installation mistakes, and when it's best to turn to professionals. And for those who decide to do the repairs themselves, we have prepared step-by-step instructions with photos and tips from service station experts.

Why do drum brakes require regular maintenance?

Drum brakes, unlike disc brakes, have a closed design. This means that dust, moisture and wear debris accumulate inside the mechanism, accelerating corrosion and reducing braking performance. On Škoda Octavia Tour The rear axle is often equipped with drums to reduce maintenance costs, but that doesn't mean they don't require attention.

The main signs that it’s time to change the repair kit:

🔊 Creaking or knocking when braking - a signal about wear of the pads or the ingress of foreign particles.
🚗 Car withdrawal to the side - may indicate uneven wear or seizing of the cylinder.
💧 Traces of brake fluid on the inside of the wheel - a sign of a leaking working cylinder.
🛑 Increased pedal travel or its “softness” - indicates the need to pump or replace the cuffs.

The manufacturer recommends checking the condition of the rear brakes every 30,000–40,000 km, but in Russian conditions (bad roads, aggressive driving style) this interval should be reduced to 20,000–25,000 km. Ignoring problems with the drum brakes on the Octavia Tour can lead to wheel locking while driving - especially dangerous at high speeds!

⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the pads the brake pedal becomes “wobbly”, immediately check the tightness of the system! This could be a sign of air trapped or a faulty master cylinder.

📊 How often do you check the rear brakes on your car?

Every 10,000 km
Every 20,000 km
Only when problems arise
Never checked

How to choose a repair kit: original vs analogues

There are three categories of repair kits on the market for Škoda Octavia Tour:

Original (VAG) - the most expensive, but with guaranteed quality. Article numbers for popular versions:
- 📌 Rear pads: 6Q0 698 451 A (for A5), 5Q0 698 451 (for A7).
- 📌 Cylinder repair kit: 6Q0 615 123.
- 📌 Set of springs and spacers: 6Q0 615 271.

Premium analogues (ATE, TRW, Bosch, Febi) - optimal price/quality ratio. For example, a set ATE 13.0460-7606.2 includes pads, springs and lubricant.

Budget analogues (Ferodo, Textar, LPR) - suitable for economical repairs, but the service life is lower 20–30%.

When choosing, pay attention to:

🔧 Certification - look for markings ECE R90 or ISO 9001.
📦 Completeness — a good kit should contain pads, springs, a spacer bar and lubricant for the guides.
📏 Compatibility — check whether the kit is suitable for your modification (1.6 MPI, 1.8 TSI, 2.0 TDI etc.).

Brand	Article (example)	Average price, rubles	Features
VAG (original)	`6Q0 698 451 A`	4 500–6 000	2 year warranty, fully compatible
ATE	`13.0460-7606.2`	3 200–4 000	Improved friction material composition
TRW	`GDB1446`	2 800–3 500	Lubricant included Copaslip
Bosch	`0 986 494 628`	3 000–3 800	Suitable for harsh environments
Ferodo	`FDB1446`	2 000–2 500	Budget option, resource ~30,000 km

If you buy the kit separately, do not forget about small but important details:

🧴 Guide lubricant (for example, Slipkote 220-R DBC).
🔩 Retaining rings for the working cylinder.
🧲 Magnets for wear indicator (if provided).

💡

Before purchasing, check to see if assembly instructions are included! Some budget kits require the use of old springs, which reduces reliability.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the repair kit

To work you will need:

🔧 Set of sockets and keys (T30, T40, 13 mm, 15 mm).
🔨 Hammer and wooden spacer (for removing the drum).
🧴 Brake fluid DOT 4.
🧲 Spring puller (or long-nose pliers).
📸 A phone for photographing the disassembly stages (useful during reassembly!).

Step 1: Preparing and removing the wheel

Jack up the car, remove the wheel and unscrew the drum guide pins (if equipped). If the drum is stuck, use WD-40 and gently tap the edge with a hammer through the wooden spacer. Do not hit the metal directly - you risk deforming the drum!

Step 2. Dismantling the old repair kit

Remove the springs using a puller (removal order: upper → lower → spacer). Carefully remove the pads and slave cylinder.

⚠️ Attention: Do not press the brake pedal after removing the cylinder - the piston may fly out!

Cleaned all parts from dirt and rust|Checked the working cylinder for leaks|Lubricated the pad guides|Installed new retaining rings|Checked the condition of the brake drum (no cracks or deep grooves)-->

Step 3. Installing a new kit

Reassemble the mechanism in reverse order, following the manufacturer's instructions. Pay special attention to:

🔄 Correct installation of springs - they must fix the pads without distortion.
🛢️ Lubrication of rubbing surfaces (but not friction ones!).
🔧 Tightening all fasteners with recommended torque (25–30 Nm for guides).

Step 4. Bleeding the brakes

After assembly, be sure to bleed the brake system, starting with the rear right wheel. Use DOT 4 and make sure that there is no air left in the system. If the pedal remains soft, check the tightness of the connections and the functionality of the master cylinder.

What to do if the drum cannot be removed?

If the drum is “stuck” and does not budge even after treating with WD-40, try the following:

1. Loosen the handbrake cable (sometimes it blocks the drum).

2. Screw two M8 bolts into the technological holes of the drum and tighten them evenly - this will help “tighten” the drum.

3. As a last resort, use a claw puller, but be careful not to damage the hub.

Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that lead to quick brake failure. Here are the most common:

Using the wrong lubricant
Never use Litol or Solid oil - they destroy the rubber cuffs. Only specialized lubricants, e.g. Slipkote 220-R or Molykote G-3407.
Incorrect spring installation
If the springs are misaligned, the pads will jam or wear unevenly. Always check the diagram in the instructions!
Ignoring drum status
If there are deep grooves on the inner surface of the drum (more 1 mm) or cracks, it needs to be sharpened or replaced. Otherwise, new pads will last 2–3 times less.
Forgetting to bleed the brakes
Without bleeding, air will remain in the system, which will lead to a “wobbly” pedal and reduced braking efficiency.

Another common problem is re-upholstery of guides. If you tighten them too much, the pads will not self-center, causing uneven wear. Use a torque wrench and watch the tightening torque (25–30 Nm).

⚠️ Attention: After replacing the repair kit, the first 200–300 km Avoid sudden braking - the pads need to get used to it!

💡

If the brakes squeak after replacement, this is not always a defect. The most common cause is dirt getting on the friction surface or poor lubrication of the guides. Try cleaning the pads and applying a special anti-squeak paste (for example, Liqui Moly Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste).

When to turn to professionals?

Some work is best left to the experts, especially if:

🔧 The working cylinder needs to be replaced - its malfunction can lead to complete brake failure.
🔄 Drums need to be sharpened — without special equipment it is impossible to do this efficiently.
⚠️ After replacing the brakes "drive" - this may indicate problems with the caliper or master cylinder.
📉 The brake pedal fails - a sign of air in the system or worn seals.

Average cost of replacing a rear drum brake kit Škoda Octavia Tour in the service:

Type of work	Cost, rubles
Replacing pads (without spare parts)	1 500–2 500
Replacing the working cylinder (1 pc.)	2 000–3 500
Drum grooving (pair)	2 500–4 000
Complete replacement of the repair kit (with spare parts)	8 000–12 000

If you decide to contact a service center, choose proven stations with equipment for diagnosing the brake system (for example, a stand for checking drum runout). Don’t hesitate to ask what spare parts will be used - some service stations save money by installing budget analogues without your knowledge.

Maintenance after replacement: how to extend the life of brakes?

To help your new pads and drums last longer, follow these tips:

🚗 Avoid hard braking first 300 km — let the pads get used to it.
🧹 Clean your brakes regularly from dirt (for example, using Cleaner Brake from Liqui Moly).
💧 Check the brake fluid level every 10,000 km.
⚙️ Adjust the handbrake - overtightening it accelerates the wear of the pads.

It is also worth paying attention to driving style. Frequent short braking (for example, in traffic jams) wears out the drum brakes more than gradual deceleration. If you drive around town frequently, consider installing ceramic pads - they last longer and generate less dust, but cost less 30–50% more expensive than standard ones.

Don't forget about seasonal service:

🌞 Summer Check the brakes for overheating (the drums should not be hot after normal driving).
❄️ in winter Clean the mechanisms from snow and salt - they accelerate corrosion.

💡

If you often travel with a trailer or transport heavy loads, install reinforced brake pads (for example, ATE Ceramic). They can withstand increased loads and overheat less.

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to replace only the pads and leave the old springs and cylinder?

Technically possible, but not recommended. Springs lose elasticity over time, and the working cylinder may leak. If your budget is limited, at least replace the springs - this will prevent the pads from skewing. Check the cylinder for leaks: if there are traces of liquid, it must be changed.

How long does it take to replace a rear brake repair kit?

In the service, work takes 1.5–2 hours. When replacing it on their own, it takes beginners 3–4 hours, for experienced car owners - about 2 hours. Most of the time is spent on removing the “stuck” drum and installing the springs.

Which repair kit is better to choose for the Octavia Tour 1.6 MPI?

Suitable for this modification:

Original VAG (6Q0 698 451 A) — if you want maximum reliability.
ATE 13.0460-7606.2 — the best analogue in terms of price/quality ratio.
TRW GDB1446 - a good option with improved friction properties.

For 1.6 MPI Budget pads are not recommended (for example, Ferodo FDB1446), since the engine is weak and the brakes are subject to increased stress during frequent stops.

What should I do if my brakes squeak after replacing them?

The reasons for the squeak can be different:

Poor quality pads — some budget models squeak due to hard friction material.
No anti-squeak paste - Apply it to the back of the pads.
Dirt entry — clean the mechanism and check the integrity of the anthers.
Incorrect installation — skewed pads rub against the drum.

If the squeak does not go away after 500 km, contact the service for diagnostics.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

If you did not disconnect the brake hoses or remove the slave cylinder, bleeding is not required. However, if the cylinder has been removed or air may have entered the system (for example, when replacing hoses), bleeding necessarily needs to be done. Use DOT 4 and follow the pattern: rear right → rear left → front right → front left wheel.

Rear drum brake repair kit for Škoda Octavia Tour: complete selection and replacement guide