Car suspension Skoda Rapid The 2016 model has earned a reputation as a reliable and unpretentious system that can withstand the harsh conditions of Russian roads. However, even the most durable unit is subject to natural wear and tear over time, and one of the first elements requiring attention is front control arm silent blocks. This detail, although invisible at first glance, plays a critical role in ensuring comfort, controllability and driving safety.
Many owners ignore the first signs of a malfunction, attributing knocks and squeaks to the characteristics of the road surface or wear of the shock absorbers. In fact, a damaged rubber-metal insert leads to wheel alignment problems, the car pulling to the side, and even damage to the wheel bearings. Timely replacement silent blocks will allow you to avoid expensive repairs and return the car to factory dynamics.
Signs of wear and troubleshooting
Determine what front control arm silent blocks require replacement, based on a number of characteristic symptoms that appear during operation. Most often, the driver notices dull knocks or creaks in the front part of the suspension, especially when driving over bumps or turning the steering wheel. These sounds arise because the rubber has lost its elasticity and has ceased to dampen vibrations.
A more serious sign is a change in the car's behavior on the road. If Skoda Rapid 2016 began to stay unsteadily on a straight line, wag the stern, or require constant adjustments to the steering wheel; the problem may be hidden in loose levers. Faulty elements lead to the suspension geometry being disrupted and the wheels no longer contacting the road as intended by the engineers.
Visual inspection can also give an unambiguous answer about the state of the nodes. Having lifted the car on the lift or observation pit, it is necessary to carefully inspect the rubber inserts. They must not be cracked, broken, bundled or traces of lubrication (if it is provided by the design). Even small cracks are a signal for an early replacement, as under load they quickly turn into through gaps.
- π The appearance of deaf knocks when passing "lying policemen" or pits.
- π The car pulls to the side when driving in a straight line without affecting the steering wheel.
- π Luft in suspension, which is felt when the wheel is swaying with the hands.
Selection of quality replacement parts
The auto parts market offers a huge range of solutions for Skoda RapidBut not all of them are suitable for long-term use. Original details VAG The Volkswagen Audi Group usually has an optimal balance of stiffness and elasticity, but their cost is often high and the service life does not always meet expectations in poor roads.
Analogues from proven European manufacturers are often the best choice to replace. Brands, like. Lemforder, TRW or Corteco offer products that are not inferior in quality to the original rubber and metal, and sometimes surpass it due to the use of more resistant to aging materials. It is important to avoid buying "nouneim" spare parts, as the rubber in them can sulphur in six months.
When choosing, it is also necessary to take into account the operating conditions. If your car is operated mainly in a city with relatively flat roads, standard soft inserts will suit. For those who often drive on broken tracks, it is best to consider reinforced options with stiffer tyres, although this may reduce comfort slightly. It is critically important to pay attention to the article when ordering, since the sizes may differ for different years of release and modifications of the suspension.
- π The original (VAG) is perfect geometry, but a high price.
- π‘οΈ Market leaders (Lemforder, Febi) - the best value for money.
- β οΈ Budget analogues - the risk of rapid wear and loss of controllability.
- Original VAG
- Lemforder
- TRW
- Febi Bilstein
- Other
Tools and preparation for replacement
The process of replacing the silent blocks requires a special tool and a certain skill of working with the suspension. The usual set of wrenches will not be enough, since a hydraulic press or special detachers are needed to press old inserts and press new ones. If you do not have access to professional equipment, it is better to entrust this work to specialists.
Before starting work, the workplace must be prepared. The car must be securely fixed on the lift or jacks using safety stands. Donβt rely on the hydraulics of the jack alone, as the risk of a heavy lever falling can lead to serious injuries. Also stock up on penetrating lubricant, as the bolts of lever attachment often cling to over the years of operation.
βοΈ Preparing to replace silent blocks
Donβt forget to also prepare new silent blocks and lubricant for their installation. Never use oil or graphite lubricant when pressing rubber inserts into the lever, as this will destroy the rubber. It is best to use a special mounting paste or soap solution that will facilitate the process and do not harm the material.
Step-by-step replacement instructions
The first step is to remove the front lever. To do this, you need to loosen the mount bolts, but do not twist them completely while the wheel is on the ground to relieve the load from the suspension. After lifting the car, we finally unscrew the bolts of the lever attachment to the body and to the hub, after which we extract the lever itself.
Next comes the most time-consuming part - the pressing of the old Bushing. Use a special remover or hydraulic press to gently squeeze out the worn-out part. Try not to damage the seat in the metal body of the lever. If there are burrs or corrosion on the metal, they must be thoroughly cleaned with a file before installing a new part.
The pressing of the new Bushing requires care. The detail should enter smoothly, without distortion. Use a suitable diameter mandrel to press the metal clip without touching the rubber part. After installation, make sure that the insert sits tightly and has no backlashes. Collect the lever in reverse order, tightening the bolts with the recommended effort.
Common mistakes when replacing silent blocks
Many masters try to knock out the old Bushing with a hammer, which leads to deformation of the lever body. Others tighten the lever mount bolts before the wheels descend to the ground, which creates pretension in the rubber and leads to rapid collapse.
When tightening the bolts of the lever attachment to the body and hub, be sure to bring the car on wheels so that the rubber elements take their working position without distortions.
Why you can not tighten the bolts until the car is lowered
One of the most common mistakes when replacing silent blocks is premature tightening of fasteners. If you tighten the bolts of the lever mount while the car is on the lift and the wheels are hanging in the air, the rubber will be in a state of constant twisting. This will lead to the fact that when the machine is lowered to the ground, the load on the rubber metal element will become excessive.
As a result of this violation of technology, even new and high-quality silent block It can be broken after a couple of thousand kilometers. The rubber will start to pick up, crack and quickly lose its damping properties. Therefore, it is extremely important to observe the sequence of operations: tighten the main nodes only after the wheels touch the ground and the suspension takes its normal position.
β οΈ Warning: Never tighten the bolts of the lever on the weight! This is guaranteed to reduce the service life of new Bushings several times.
Tightening of the lever bolts should be made only after lowering the car to the ground to exclude pretension of the rubber elements.
Push and fall-down parameters
After replacing the silent blocks and assembling the suspension, it is necessary to check the moments of tightening of all fasteners. For Skoda Rapid In 2016, there are strict rules that must be followed. Usually the bolts of the lever attachment to the body are tightened at a moment of about 80-100 Nm, and the bolts to the hub are about 120-140 Nm, but the exact data is always better to clarify in the service documentation.
A mandatory stage after replacing the suspension elements is descent-shattering. Changing the geometry of the levers inevitably shifts the angles of the wheels. If you do not adjust them, the car will have increased tire wear, handling will deteriorate, and the steering wheel can stand unevenly. In the service, it is necessary to record new data in a computer database.
| element | Recommended tightening torque (Nm) | Tool |
|---|---|---|
| Bolt of lever attachment to body | 90 + 90Β° | Torque wrench |
| Bolt of lever attachment to hub | 120 | Extension + key |
| Anti-roll bar bolt | 25 | Ratchet |
| Lever nut (self-contradictory) | 80 | Head |
How long does the repair take?
The process of replacing bushings is a time-consuming operation that requires time and accuracy. If the master has all the necessary tools, including the press, and he works alone, then it takes 3 to 5 hours to replace the Bushings on both front levers. In the absence of professional equipment or work in garage conditions, the time can be increased to 6-8 hours.
It is important to consider that if the levers are strongly corroded or the bolts have become boiling, the dismantling process can be delayed. In such cases, sometimes you have to use heating or even a Bulgarian to cut rusty nuts. Therefore, it is better to lay down time with a margin and not rush, so as not to damage the details.
- β±οΈ Standard working hours: 3-4 hours.
- π§ If there is rust: up to 6 hours.
- π οΈ Without special tools: it can take all day.
Frequently asked questions and answers
Can you replace only one silent block on the lever?
Technically, this is possible, but it is highly discouraged. Rubber ages simultaneously on all lever inserts. If one is worn out, then the second is likely to be close to a critical state. It is better to change the set immediately to avoid re-removing the lever after a short time.
Should I change the whole lever instead of the Bushings?
It depends on the state of the metal part of the lever. If the metal does not have cracks, severe corrosion or deformation, then replacing the silent blocks is more economically profitable. However, if the lever is bent or has deep cracks, it must be replaced entirely for safety.
How often should I check the Bushings on the Skoda Rapid?
It is recommended to conduct a visual inspection of the suspension every 15-20 thousand kilometers. If there are any extraneous sounds or changes in the behavior of the car, the check should be carried out immediately, without waiting for the planned maintenance.
Is it possible to drive with a cracked silent block?
Short term yes, but it's dangerous. The crack progresses rapidly, which can lead to complete destruction of the insert during movement. This is fraught with loss of controllability, especially at high speed or with a sharp maneuver. It is better to postpone the repair until the last moment.