Replacing rear brake pads on a ŠKODA Yeti: step-by-step instructions with photos and videos

Replacing rear brake pads with ŠKODA Yeti - a procedure that many car owners put off until the last minute. Meanwhile, worn pads not only reduce braking efficiency, but can also damage the brake discs, which will result in costly repairs. In this article, we will look at exactly when replacement is required, what tools are needed, and how to do the work yourself - taking into account the features of models with mechanical and electric handbrake.

Feature Yeti (especially versions with engines 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TDI) lies in the design of the rear brake mechanism: it is often used here floating caliper, which requires careful handling when disassembling. In addition, on machines with DSG or automatically It may be necessary to reset the brake system adaptations after replacement - many people forget about this. If you have never done this kind of work, we recommend that you study the theoretical part first to avoid common mistakes.

Signs of wear on the rear pads on a ŠKODA Yeti

Unlike the front ones, the rear pads are Yeti wear out more slowly - their service life is usually 60–80 thousand km with a calm driving style. However, there are several clear signs that it is time to change them:

• 🔊 Creaking or whistling when braking - especially noticeable at low speeds. This can be either a wear indicator or sand getting between the pad and the disc.
• 🚗 Increased brake pedal travel or its “softness” is a sign that the friction material has worn down to a minimum thickness.
• 🔧 Visual wear: if it is clear through the caliper inspection window that the pad thickness is less than 3–4 mm, replacement cannot be delayed.
• 💡 Brake light is on on the dashboard (on models with wear sensors).

On Yeti with electromechanical parking brake (EPB) there is one more nuance: the system can automatically tighten the pads as they wear out, masking the problem. Therefore, visual inspection is critical here. If you notice that the car begins to “pull” to the side when braking, this may indicate uneven wear on the pads or deformation of the disc.

⚠️ Attention: On versions with DSG Ignoring the squeaking of the pads can lead to damage to the wheel bearing - replacing it will cost 15–20 thousand rubles. along with work.

Which pads to choose for ŠKODA Yeti: original vs analogues

Original rear pads for Yeti (article 1K0 698 451 or 5Q0 698 451 depending on the year) cost from 3,500 to 5,000 rub. per set. However, many car owners prefer analogues from trusted brands, which are often not inferior in quality, but are cheaper 30–50%.

Brand	Article	Price (set), rub.	Features
TRW	GDB1465	2 800–3 200	Soft friction material, low dust
ATE	13.0460-7216.2	3 000–3 500	High wear resistance, suitable for aggressive driving
Brembo	P 24 063	3 800–4 200	Optimal for difficult conditions (mountains, off-road)
Bosch	0 986 494 219	2 500–2 900	Budget option, may creak for the first 200 km

When choosing analogues, pay attention to friction material composition:

• 🔹 Ceramic pads (ATE Ceramic, Textar C-Tec) generate less dust and last longer, but are more expensive.
• 🔹 Semi-metallic (TRW, Ferodo) are cheaper, but wear out the discs faster.
• 🔹 Low metal (Bosch, Brembo) is the gold standard for most conditions.

⚠️ Attention: On Yeti with electric handbrake You cannot install pads without a special groove for the wear sensor - this will lead to an error ESP on the dashboard.

Tools and preparation for replacement

To replace the rear pads with ŠKODA Yeti you will need:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to secure the machine on a level surface!).
• 🔨 Balloon wrench and socket heads 13 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm.
• 🛠️ Caliper puller (or a flat screwdriver for spreading the pads).
• 🧲 Magnetized handle - so as not to lose the caliper guides.
• 🧴 WD-40 or similar lubricant for cleaning the guides.
• 🔧 Torque wrench (optional, but recommended for tightening bolts to the correct torque).

Before starting work, complete the following steps:

1. Park the car hand brake (if manual) or turn on the gear (on automatic - mode P).
2. Loosen the wheel bolts before lifting on the jack.
3. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap - when the caliper piston sinks, the fluid level will rise.
4. If on your Yeti electric handbrake, necessarily remove the fuse F47 (15A) in the fuse box to unlock the caliper.

On models with DSG or automatically after replacing the pads it may be necessary brake system adaptation via a diagnostic scanner (for example, VCDS or OBDeleven). Without this, the brake pedal may become “wobbly”.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear pads

Replacement process Yeti with mechanical and electric handbrake a little different. Below is a universal instruction taking into account both options.

Step 1: Removing the Wheel and Caliper

1. Raise the rear of the car with a jack and remove the wheel.

2. Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (usually on 13 mm or 15 mm).

3. Carefully hang the caliper on a wire or a special hook - do not allow sagging on the brake hose!

Step 2: Removing Old Pads

1. Remove the spring retainers (if equipped) and pull out the old pads.

2. Clean the caliper guides of old grease and corrosion (use WD-40 and a metal brush).

3. Check the condition of the brake disc: if there are deep grooves on it (more than 1 mm) or cracks, the disc also needs to be replaced.

Step 3: Recessing the caliper piston

There is a critical difference here for machines with electric handbrake (EPB):

• 🔧 Mechanical handbrake: press the piston with a puller or an adjustable wrench, rotating it clockwise.
• ⚡ Electric handbrake: need a piston screw in special tool (for example, Lisle 25800) or rotating pliers counterclockwise.

What happens if you don't push the piston down?

If you do not recess the caliper piston before installing new pads, you will physically not be able to put the caliper in place - the pads will be too thick. It may also cause the brakes to seize after assembly.

Step 4: Install New Pads

1. Apply a thin layer copper grease onto the back of the new pads (where they contact the caliper).

2. Reinstall the pads in reverse order, making sure the spring clips are in place.

3. Secure the caliper and tighten the bolts to torque 30–35 Nm (for Yeti with engines 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TDI).

4. Repeat the procedure on the second wheel.

Step 5: Final Operations

1. Press the brake pedal several times until the caliper pistons are in the working position.

2. Bleed the brakes (if the fluid level in the reservoir has risen significantly).

3. On machines with EPB execute brake adaptation via diagnostic scanner (for example, command Basic Settings → Brake Pad Replacement in VCDS).

4. Check the brakes while driving, starting at low speed.

Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes, which later become costly. Here are the most common:

• 🔧 Late replacement of brake fluid. If you are changing the pads and the fluid has not been updated more 2 years, it should also be replaced - the old liquid is hygroscopic and loses its properties.
• 🔨 Retightening the caliper bolts. This leads to deformation of the guides and uneven wear of the pads. Always use a torque wrench!
• ⚡ Ignoring EPB adaptation. On Yeti with an electric handbrake this is fraught with error ESP and wheel locking.
• 🧴 Using the wrong lubricant. Never apply to caliper guides. Litol or Solid oil - only high-temperature lubricants (Slipkote, Molykote).

Another common problem is incorrect installation of spring clamps. If the latch does not latch, the pad will “walk” in the caliper, which will lead to its accelerated wear and the appearance of squeaks. Always make sure the clips are tight.

⚠️ Attention: On Yeti with all-wheel drive (4x4) after replacing the pads it may be necessary checking the fluid level in the transfer case — the braking system here is connected to the all-wheel drive system.

When to change brake discs and pads

Brake discs on ŠKODA Yeti The pads last longer, but they also have to be replaced. Here are the signs that the discs are worn out:

• 📏 Disc thickness less than the minimum allowable (for Yeti this is usually 18–20 mm depending on model).
• 🔍 Deep grooves or cracks on the work surface.
• 🌀 Steering wheel beating when braking (indicates disc deformation).
• 🔥 blue tint on the disc - a sign of overheating (often happens when driving aggressively or the caliper is jammed).

Original rear discs for Yeti have articles:

• 1K0 615 601 AB - for models with engines 1.2 TSI, 1.4 TSI.
• 1K0 615 601 AD - for 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TDI.

The cost of the original is from 6,000 rub. for disk. some analogues have proven themselves well ATE (24.0120-0179.1) and Brembo (09.9602.11).

If you decide to change disks, be sure to check condition of wheel bearings. On Yeti they often start to "buzz" after 100 thousand km, and replacing disks is a good reason to check their play.

Resetting the service interval after replacement

On ŠKODA Yeti (especially on models with MFD or MAXIDOT) After replacing the pads, you need to reset the brake lining wear counter. This can be done in two ways:

Method 1: Through the on-board computer menu

1. Turn on the ignition (without starting the engine).
2. Press and hold the button SET/0.0 on the steering column lever.
3. Turn the key to position ON (or click START/STOP without pressing the brake pedal).
4. Via 10 seconds the display will show SERVICE RESET.
5. Release the button and select Inspection or Brake pads (depending on software version).
6. Confirm reset by pressing and holding SET/0.0 more 5 seconds.

Method 2: Through a diagnostic scanner

If you have VCDS or OBDeleven, follow these steps:

1. Connect the scanner to the diagnostic connector.
2. Select block 17 – Instruments.
3. Go to Adaptation → Channel 02.
4. Enter value 00000 (or ------ for some software versions).
5. Save the changes and restart the on-board computer.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing rear pads on a ŠKODA Yeti

Is it possible to change the pads on only one wheel?

No, the pads are always changed pair on one axis. If you replace only one side, this will lead to uneven braking and the car pulling to the side. An exception is if the block is mechanically damaged (for example, after being hit by a stone), but even in this case it is recommended to inspect the other side.

How long does it take to replace rear pads?

On average, it takes 1.5–2.5 hours, if there are no complications (soured bolts, damaged guides). On machines with electric handbrake the process may take 30–40 minutes more due to the need for adaptation.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

Bleeding the brakes is only required in two cases:

1. If you opened the hydraulic system (for example, disconnected the brake hose).
2. If the brake fluid level in the reservoir has risen to the maximum after retracting the pistons.

In other cases, it is enough to press the brake pedal several times to force the pistons into place.

Why did a squeak appear after replacing the pads?

Creaking can occur for several reasons:

• 🔹 The pads are not worn in (usually goes away after 200–300 km).
• 🔹 Incorrect lubricant applied to the back of the pads (use only copper or ceramic grease).
• 🔹 Dirt gets between the pad and the disc (need to be cleaned and rolled while braking hard).
• 🔹 Low-quality friction material (especially for budget pads).

If the squeaking does not go away, check whether the pad is touching the caliper boot.

Is it possible to drive if only one pad wears out?

No, it's dangerous! Uneven pad wear indicates caliper jamming or damage to the guides. In this case:

1. Check the play of the guides and lubricate them.
2. Make sure the caliper boots are not torn.
3. If the caliper is sticking, it needs to be repaired or replaced.

Driving with such a malfunction leads to overheating of the brakes and an increase in braking distance.