Owners Škoda Kodiaq Often face increased noise levels in the cabin, especially at high speeds or when operating a diesel engine. One of the key sources of unpleasant sounds. vibrations and acoustic vibrations of the hoodwhich are transmitted to the cabin through the body panels. Even the factory noise insulation of the Czech crossover does not always cope with the task 100%, especially in basic configurations or after several years of operation.

This article will help you understand how to perform correctly. hooding Kodiaq with their own hands - from the selection of materials to the finishing. We will analyze typical errors, compare the performance of different brands (for example, the results of the product). StP, Bitumat, Accent), and give specific recommendations for installation of engines 1.5 TSI, 2.0 TSI and 2.0 TDI. We pay special attention to nuances that are often missed in general instructions, for example, processing. rib And protect the heat sensitive areas.

Why the sound insulation of the hood is important for Škoda Kodiaq?

The hood is not just a protective element, but one of the largest. resonant in the car. When driving at speeds above 80 km/h or under load (for example, when overtaking), it begins to vibrate, increasing the noise from:

  • 🔊 Engine - especially relevant for diesel engines 2.0 TDI (150/190 hp), where vibrations are transmitted to the body through fastenings;
  • 💨 Counter-flow airflow - Turbulence on the edges of the hood creates a low-frequency hum;
  • 🌧️ Rain and hail Without insulation, the drops sound like a drumbeat;
  • 🚗 Gravel and sandIt is a metal that is caught on a primer.

According to independent tests (for example, the magazine Auto Bild), proper noise insulation of the hood can reduce the noise level in the cabin on the 3–5 dB in the range of 50-500 Hz - this is a decrease in volume by 30-40%. For Kodiaq With its spacious interior and large glass surfaces, this effect is especially noticeable.

📊 What engine is installed in your Kodiaq?
  • 1.5 TSI (150 hp)
  • 2.0 TSI (190 hp)
  • 2.0 TDI (150 hp)
  • 2.0 TDI (190 hp)
  • Other

The market offers dozens of options for noise insulation materials, but for Kodiaq Three parameters are critically considered: weight (To avoid overloading the hood loops), heat resistance (up to +120°C for the area next to the turbine) and vibroisolating. We tested 5 popular solutions:

Material Thickness Weight (m²) Temperature range Price (per 1 m²) Features
StP Aero Plus 4 mm 3.2 kg –40°…+120°C 1 200 ₽ Self-adhesive, aluminum foil, high absorption coefficient
Bitumat M2 2.5 mm 2.8 kg –30°…+100°C 850 ₽ Budget option, requires warm-up hair dryer for better adhesion
Accent Premium 3.5 mm 3.0 kg –50°…+130°C 1 500 ₽ Three-layer structure suitable for extreme conditions
Shumoff Ultra 5 mm 4.1 kg –40°…+110°C 950 ₽ Maximum noise absorption, but heavy for hinges Kodiaq
SGM (leaf rubber) 6–10 mm 5.5 kg –30°…+90°C 600 ₽ Cheap, but requires glue and is not suitable for areas near the outlet

For Kodiaq The best balance between price and quality StP Aero Plus or Accent Premium. The first is easier and easier to install, the second withstands higher temperatures (relevant for turbocharged engines). Avoid Cheap Rubber (SGM) - it peels off over time and can damage the LCP during dismantling.

⚠️ Attention: Do not use materials thicker than 5 mm on the entire hood – this will increase the load on the hinges and can lead to distortion. For areas near turbine or drain-manifold Choose heat-resistant options (from +120 ° C).

Step-by-step instructions: how to stick sound insulation on the hood

The bonnet noise insulation process Škoda Kodiaq It takes 4-6 hours and requires careful attention. You'll need:

  • 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (cross, flat) for dismantling plastic clips;
  • 🧴 Degreaser (Anti-Silicon or isopropyl alcohol;
  • 🔥 Technical hair dryer (power from 1600 W);
  • 📏 Rubber roller for rolling materials;
  • ✂️ Scissors or a stationery knife with a sharp blade.

Step 1. Removing the hood and preparing the surface

Remove the hood from the hinges (it is recommended to work with an assistant) or throw it away on the stops. Remove factory noise insulation (if any) and thoroughly clean the metal of dirt and grease. Don't use acetone - it could damage the primer. For Kodiaq 2017+ year, pay attention to:

  • 🔴 Fixing areas hood-shock-absorber - They need to be pasted. masking tape- so as not to get dirty;
  • 🔴 Ribs of stiffness - they are better treated separately with a thin material (for example, Bitumat M1);
  • 🔴 Holes for headlight washers If you have, do not put them in the full range.

Remove factory insulation (if any)

Clean metal from dirt and rust

Degreasing the surface (without acetone!)

Plate tape of fixtures and openings

Warm the hood with a hair dryer (temperature +40... +50 ° C)->

Step 2. Unlock and sticker the material

Spread the material on the hood and circle the contours marker. For Kodiaq recommended:

  • 📏 On the outside of the hood: StP Aero Plus (covering 80-90% of the area, avoiding zones near the hinges)
  • 📏 On the inside (engine side): Accent Premium (only in the central part, without closing) air intakes).

Stick the material in parts, warming up with a hair dryer and immediately rolling roller. Start from center to edge.To avoid bubbles. For stiffness ribs, use strips 5-7 cm wide.

💡

Before the final roller, heat the material with a hairdryer to +60... + 70 ° C - this will improve adhesion and prevent detachment in the future.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when insulating the hood. Here are the most common:

  1. Overloading hinges. Hood Kodiaq weighs ~15 kg, and the loops are designed for a load of up to 20 kg. If you are using heavy materials (for example, SGM 10 mm), the risk of distortion or backlash increases. Solution: combine thin vibroisolators (2-3 mm) with light noise absorbers (for example, Bimast Bomb).
  2. Sticking of vents. On Kodiaq with engines 2.0 TSI/TDI There are special channels under the hood to cool the turbine. Their overlap leads to overheating. Solution: Leave the areas around you free air intakes and oil-hole.
  3. Ignoring the stiffness of the ribs. These elements increase vibration, like the strings of a guitar. Solution: Put them in a thin material (for example). Bitumat M1) with a surface of 1-2 cm on the main insulation.
⚠️ Attention: If after noise insulation the hood began to close with effort, check adjusting hinges and seals. On Kodiaq In 2020+, this requires loosening the hinge mount bolts (key to 13) and adjusting the position.
What to do if the material is detached after a month?

If after 1-2 months after installation, the noise insulation began to go away, the reason in 90% of cases is poor surface preparation. Decision:

1. Remove the detached material and clean the metal from the glue residue (use). white spirit).

2. Warm the hood with a hair dryer to +50 ° C and repeat degreasing.

3. Apply a thin layer of soil for plastic (for example, 3M 05907) - this will improve adhesion.

4. Stick a new piece of material, warming it with a hair dryer to +80 ° C and pressing with a roller with a force of 10-15 kg.

If the problem recurs, replace the material with a more aggressive adhesive layer (e.g., Accent Ultra).

Comparison of results: before and after soundproofing

Efficiency of hood noise insulation Škoda Kodiaq It depends on the combination of materials and the quality of installation. Based on the results of the owners’ tests (forums) SkodaClub.ru and Drive2.ru), average indicators of improvement:

Parameter Before soundproofing After (StP + Accent) After (Budget version)
Engine noise at idle (dB) 52–54 47-49 (-5 dB) 50–51 (–2 dB)
Noise at 100 km/h (dB) 68–70 63-65 (-5 dB) 66–67 (–2 dB)
Vibrations on the steering wheel Notable (especially on the 2.0 TDI) Minimum Weak
The sound of rain Loud, "drum-like" Muffled Weakly muted.

Critical nuance for Kodiaq: the maximum effect is achieved only with complex noise insulation (hood + wheel arches + cabin floor). The treatment of one hood gives an improvement of 30-40%, but does not solve the problem completely.

💡

For diesel versions Kodiaq 2.0 TDI The noise insulation of the hood is especially important – it reduces the “diesel roar” by 20-30% due to the absorption of vibrations from fuel equipment.

Alternative methods: when sound insulation does not help

If after hooding, the noise in the cabin remained at the same level, the problem may lie in other elements:

  • 🔧 Engine mounts. On Kodiaq mileage > 100,000 They are often "tired" by transmitting vibrations to the body. Solution: Check the back of the pillows (especially the right one, near the generator). The cost of replacement is from 8 000 rubles per set.
  • 🚪 Door seals. Over time, they lose elasticity, passing noise from the street. Solution: handle them silicone grease Replace (the article for the front doors): 5Q0 837 151/152).
  • 🔊 Air intake resonator. On Kodiaq with 2.0 TSI He can make a whistle at high speeds. Solution: Check the integrity of the corrugated (detail) 06J 129 620 H).

Also worth checking hood-screen (if it is included in your configuration). On Kodiaq It often deforms from heat and begins to vibrate. The replacement will cost 3,000–5,000 rubles (original: 5Q0 823 361).

FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions

Can you make noiseproofing the hood without removing it?

Technically yes, but it will make the process much more complicated. Without removal, you will not be able to properly process the stiffness ribs and the area next to the hinges. In addition, the risk of hood distortion when gluing "on weight" increases 3-4 times. If you still decide not to remove the hood, use the lightest materials (for example, Bitumat M2) and work with an assistant.

What kind of adhesive should be used for noise insulation if the material is not self-adhesive?

For Kodiaq will fit:

  • 3M Super Trim Adhesive - universal, withstands up to +150 ° C;
  • Cosmofen CA 12 Rapid polymerization, but requires precise docking;
  • Kudo KT-304 Budget option, but not heat resistance (maximum +90 ° C).

Apply glue pointwise (not a single stain) to avoid the swelling. For areas near turbine Use only high temperature compounds.

How long will the noise insulation on the hood Kodiaq?

Service life depends on the material and operating conditions:

  • StP/Accent5-7 years (with proper installation);
  • Bitumat3-4 years (may detach from temperature changes);
  • Budget options (for example, Shumoff): 1-2 years.

On diesel versions, the insulation wears out faster due to constant vibrations. Extending the service life will help the processing of edges sealant (for example, Terostat 9322).

Is it possible to wash the hood after soundproofing?

Yes, but with reservations:

  • 🚿 Do not use high pressure apparatus (Karcher) closer than 30 cm to the edges of the hood – the water jet can get under insulation and cause detachment;
  • 🧽 For washing use contactless (for example, Sonax Xtreme) or a soft sponge;
  • 🔥 After washing, warm the hood with a hairdryer (temperature +40... +50 ° C) for 10-15 minutes to dry the possible moisture under the material.
Does the hood noise insulation affect fuel consumption?

There is no direct influence, but indirectly yes. An increase in the weight of the hood by 3-5 kg (using high-quality materials) can:

  • 📉 Increase fuel consumption by 0.1–0.3 l/100 km (invisibly in the urban cycle, but noticeable on the road);
  • 🔄 Change the balance of the front axle that Kodiaq with all-wheel drive (4x4) may affect tyre wear;
  • ⚠️ If the weight of the hood exceeds 7 kg (for example, when using the SGM 10 mm) possible hinge-skew And uneven closing.

If you are concerned about the expense, choose lightweight materials (for example, StP Aero Lite - weight 2.5 kg/m2.