Crossover operation Skoda Kodiaq in Russian road conditions, it requires increased attention to the braking system. Rear calipers are often electrically driven, while the front mechanisms operate according to the classical scheme, but with high loads due to the weight of the car. Timely replacement of front pads is not just routine maintenance, but a critical procedure for the safety of all passengers.
Ignoring wear signals leads to the destruction of brake discs, which entails much more serious financial losses. Owners Kodiaq are faced with the need to purchase original spare parts or high-quality analogues, since cheap options often do not withstand even short periods of operation. In this article we will look at how to choose the right kit, what tools you will need and how to get the job done without contacting service.
Signs of wear and diagnostics of the brake system
You can determine the need for replacement not only by mileage, but also by indirect signs of the vehicleβs performance. During intense braking, a specific metallic grinding noise may appear, which does not disappear even after several presses of the pedal. This is a sure signal that the friction lining has completely worn out and the metal base has begun to come into contact with the disc.
It is important to pay attention to the behavior of the steering wheel and brake pedal when decelerating. If the steering wheel begins to vibrate or pulsate, this often indicates uneven wear on the pads or deformation of the disc itself. In some cases Skoda Kodiaq may pull to the side during heavy braking, which indicates jamming of the caliper guides or misalignment of one of the pads.
- π The appearance of a characteristic squeaking or grinding noise when moving
- π Vibration of the steering wheel or brake pedal when stopping
- β οΈ Car pulls to the side during emergency braking
- π Increased braking distance compared to new condition
Many modern models are equipped with electronic wear sensors. On Kodiaq such a sensor is usually installed on the front left caliper (or right, depending on the year of manufacture). When a critical level of wear is reached, the corresponding indicator on the dashboard will light up. However, you cannot rely only on electronics, as the sensor may fail ahead of time.
β οΈ Attention: If the wear indicator has already come on, operating the car for more than 500-700 kilometers is extremely dangerous, as the disc may be completely destroyed.
Selecting suitable spare parts and consumables
The auto parts market offers a huge selection of options for Skoda Kodiaq, but not all of them are suitable for severe operating conditions. Original pads from Volkswagen Group guarantee compliance with factory requirements, but their cost is often inflated. As an alternative, it is worth considering trusted brands that specialize in braking systems.
When choosing, you need to consider the type of brake discs installed on your car. Crossovers with diesel engines or powerful gasoline engines require pads with a high coefficient of friction and resistance to overheating. Regular civilian kits can quickly overheat and become ineffective on long descents.
| Manufacturer | Material type | Features | Recommended mileage (km) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Original (VAG) | Semi-metallic | Perfect compatibility, low noise | 30 000 - 45 000 |
| TRW | Ceramic/Semi-metal | High resistance to overheating | 35 000 - 50 000 |
| Brembo | Special formulations | Excellent braking, may generate dust | 25 000 - 40 000 |
| Textar | Soft composition | Comfort, but fast disc wear | 20 000 - 35 000 |
Don't forget to purchase a set of new caliper guides and grease for them. Old guides often jam, which leads to uneven pad wear and overheating of the brake fluid. It is also recommended to check the condition of the caliper piston boots for cracks.
- Original VAG
- Brand analogues (TRW, Brembo)
- Budget options
- I don't know until I changed.
Preparing tools and work area
To carry out the work, you will need a standard set of tools that most car owners have, but there are specific positions. The key point is the presence of a jack and reliable stands (goats), since it is strictly forbidden to work under a raised car on jacks alone. Make sure the surface under the car is flat and solid.
The main tool for dismantling the caliper is the end key of 13 mm (less often 14 mm, depending on the year of release and the type of caliper). You will also need a hexagon (star) T30 to unscrew the guide calipers. Be sure to prepare a special brace or vise to press the piston, as it does not always go back effortlessly.
- π§ Capacit or end key for 13 mm (for caliper bolts)
- π© T30 hexagon (for guiding fingers)
- π οΈ The jack and the stands under the body (required!)
- π§ A bottle with brake cleaner and lubricant for guides
- π¨ Hammer and mounting for dismantling jammed parts
Donβt forget about the clean rags and gloves. Brake dust is toxic, and inhaling it or getting on the skin is not recommended. Before starting work, remove the negative terminal from the battery if you plan to turn off the wear sensor, although with a conventional replacement this is not always necessary.
βοΈ Tools and preparation
Step-by-step instructions for replacing front pads
The first thing to do is to loosen the wheel mount bolts while the car is on the ground. Then lift the front of the machine with a jack, install it on the stand and completely unscrew the wheel bolts. Remove the wheel and thoroughly clean the caliper and brake disc of dirt and dust with a cleaner.
Unscrew the two lower caliper mount bolts using a 13mm key. The upper guides can be closed with rubber plugs, which must be carefully tucked with a screwdriver. After unscrewing the bolts, the caliper can be removed from the bracket. Be careful: do not let the caliper hang on the brake hose, hang it on a wire or hook.
Remove the old brake pads from the bracket. Often they are stuck or stuck in guides, they can be neatly knocked out with a hammer through the slot. Examine the caliper bracket: if the guiding fingers go tight, they must be removed, cleaned of the old lubricant and lubricated again with a special silicone lubricant.
Now the most difficult thing is to push the caliper piston back into the body. Use a special tool or two mounts, resting on the caliper body and piston. Press evenly so that the piston does not jam. If you Skoda Kodiaq With a wear sensor, make sure you don't damage the sensor wire during this procedure.
Piston nuances
The piston on the front calipers of the Kodiaq usually has no thread and is simply pressed in. However, some modifications may require the piston to be rolled. In 99% of cases, the front calipers of the VW Group do not require turning, unlike the rear calipers.
Install new pads in the brace. Before that, apply a thin layer of high-temperature lubricant to the back of the pads (where they come into contact with the piston and bracket), but in no case on the friction surface. Place the brace in place, tighten the guiding fingers with the tightening moment specified in the manual (usually about 25-30 Nm).
After assembly, be sure to pump the brake system if you accidentally opened the fitting or disconnected the hose. Otherwise, just press the brake pedal several times to the end so that the piston takes the correct position relative to the new pads. Check the level of brake fluid in the tank - it could rise due to the pistons being pressed in.
β οΈ Warning: Never press the brake pedal until the wheel is set in place! Otherwise, the piston can fly out of the caliper, which will lead to the loss of brakes.
Before installing new shoes, slightly walk with sandpaper along their ends to remove burrs from casting - this will reduce the risk of creaking in the first kilometers.
Nuances of working with a wear sensor and resetting errors
By car Skoda Kodiaq The wear sensor of brake pads is an expendable material. If the dashboard is burning error about replacing the pads, just their physical replacement will not remove the indicator. The new sensor must be placed in the correct position (usually on the left caliper) and its wire must be connected to the connector.
If you have replaced the pads but the error has not gone away, it is possible that the sensor itself has not yet worked or the wiring is damaged. In some cases, a forced error reset via the OBDII diagnostic scanner is required. This is done through the service settings menu or with the help of specialized programs such as VCDS (Vag-Com).
- π Make sure the sensor connector is tightly latched
- π» Use a diagnostic scanner to reset your adaptation
- π Check the integrity of the sensor wire (often rubbed)
- π Donβt ignore the error, even if the pads are new.
Owners sometimes find that the sensor does not work immediately after replacement. This is normal, as electronics may require a specific mileage or braking cycle to recalculate parameters. If the error burns constantly, check whether you have mixed the left and right sensors (if they are different).
A wear sensor is not just a mechanical contact, but an electronic device that requires proper installation and sometimes software initialization to reset the error.
Typical replacement errors and their consequences
One of the most common mistakes is saving on lubrication guides. Without proper lubrication, the fingers jam and the caliper begins to "grab" the pad even when you do not press the pedal. This leads to overheating of the disc, its deformation and rapid wear of the pads on one side.
Another common mistake is the wrong installation of new shoes. They should walk freely in a brace, but not hang out too much. If you forget to install locking springs or braces, the pads may begin to vibrate and make a strong noise when moving. Also unacceptable grease on the friction lining.
Often, drivers forget to remove the protective cap from the guiding finger before cleaning it. The remnants of old dirt under the cap break down the rubber anther, which leads to moisture and corrosion inside the mechanism. This reduces the service life of the caliper at times.
β οΈ Note: The use of universal lubricant (for example, graphite or copper) for the guide fingers is strictly prohibited - they will melt at high temperatures and jam the mechanism.
If you do not know the exact moment of tightening of the bolts, use a dynamometer key. Twisted bolts can burst at the next disassembly, and understretched bolts will lead to vibrations and loss of the wheel. For the caliper mounting bolts Kodiaq the moment is usually 25-30 Nm, and wheel bolts - 120 Nm.
Maintenance after replacement
After completion of work, it is necessary to run new brake pads. During the first 200-300 kilometers, avoid extreme braking and extreme loads. This will allow the frictional material to work evenly to the surface of the disc, ensuring maximum braking efficiency.
For the first few days after replacement, listen carefully to the brakes. Light creaking in the first kilometers is acceptable, but if it is amplified or accompanied by vibration, you must immediately check the correctness of the installation. Maybe there was dirt or lubrication on the disc.
Check the level of brake fluid regularly. With the wear of the pads, the level in the tank rises, but if you have changed the pads for a long time, and the level has fallen - this may indicate a leak in the system. Do not let the level fall below the minimum mark, as this will lead to air entering the system.
Running new pads is a mandatory stage that directly affects the durability of brake discs and the effectiveness of braking in an emergency situation.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to replace the front pads on the Skoda Kodiaq?
With the necessary tool and experience, replacing the pads on one axis takes about 40-60 minutes. If you are doing this for the first time, set aside 1.5-2 hours to work with both parties.
Do I need to change brake discs and pads?
No, this is not necessary if the thickness of the disk is within the permissible values and there are no deep furrows or cracks on it. However, with strong wear of the pads (more than 10-12 thousand). (km) the discs often already require replacement or leakage.
Can I use a lubricant for calipers from the set?
The kits often have a simple silicone lubricant that is suitable for the guiding fingers, but not for the back of the pads. For the back, it is better to use a high-temperature paste (for example, Cerama), which can withstand heating up to 600-1000 degrees.
How can you tell if the wear sensor has tripped?
When the sensor is activated, a yellow or red lamp with a brake disc and the inscription "Check Brake Linings" lights up on the dashboard. In some cases, a message may appear on the on-board computer display.
What to do if the pads squeak after replacement?
Scream can be caused by a lack of lubrication on the back of the pads, skewing of the bracket or getting dirt on the friction pad. Check for spring rings and apply a special anti-scrip lubricant.