Thresholds at Škoda Octavia - one of the most vulnerable parts of the body, which is the first to take the blow from road salt, gravel and moisture. Even with careful use, after 3-5 years chips, scratches and spots of rust appear on them, which over time turn into through holes. This is especially true for models Octavia A5 (1Z3, 2004–2013) and Octavia A7 (5E, 2013–2020), where factory anti-corrosion treatment often leaves much to be desired.
In this article we will look at how to choose the right thresholds for your Octavia (including restyled versions FL), what materials are best to use for replacement, and how to carry out the work yourself, saving up to 70% of the cost at a car service center. We will also reveal the secrets of long-lasting corrosion protection - from budget methods to professional anti-corrosion compounds that are used on the assembly line Škoda.
What thresholds are there? Škoda Octavia: original vs analogues
On all generations Octavia thresholds are divided into two categories: external (overhead) and internal (body strength element). The former perform a decorative function and protect against minor damage, the latter carry the load and are responsible for the rigidity of the body. Severe corrosion often requires replacement of both elements.
Original thresholds from Škoda (items start with 5E6 for A7 and 1Z6 for A5) are made of galvanized steel with additional cataphoresis treatment. Their main advantage is a perfect fit and 100% compatibility with fastenings. However, the price for a set (left + right) can reach 20–30 thousand rubles, which forces owners to look for alternatives.
- 🔹 Original (VAG): art.
5E6 807 101/102(A7),1Z6 807 101/102(A5). Pros: precise geometry, factory quality metal. Cons: high cost, long delivery times. - 🔹 Analogs (Polcar, Febi, Meyle): 30–50% cheaper, but require adjustment. For example, thresholds Polcar (Poland) is often praised for its quality close to the original.
- 🔹 Universal: Fits several VW Group models, but may not match curves. Example:
807 101 UNIfrom Autoform. - 🔹 Plastic linings: for protection against chipping only, do not replace metal thresholds. Popular with owners Octavia Scout.
When choosing analogues, pay attention to metal thickness (optimally - 0.8–1.0 mm) and the presence of galvanization. Cheap thresholds made of ferrous metal will rust in 1–2 seasons. Also check the package contents: the original kit includes seals and fasteners, which often have to be purchased separately.
- Original (VAG)
- Analogs (Polcar, Febi)
- Universal
- Homemade (from sheet metal)
When it's time to change thresholds: 5 warning signs
Many owners Octavia They ignore the first signs of corrosion until the sills begin to “crumble” right on the move. In order not to bring them to a critical condition, check them every 6 months (especially after winter). Please note:
- Blistering paint - the first signal that the oxidation process has begun under the paintwork. Often appears at the junctions with arches.
- Rusty stains from under the door seals - a sign of corrosion of the internal threshold.
- Crunching or dips when you press the threshold with your foot, it indicates the destruction of the metal from the inside.
- Chips and scratches deeper than 0.5 mm, exposing metal.
- Creaks when opening doors - may indicate weakening of welds.
If you find at least 2-3 signs from the list, it's time to act. In the early stages it is enough local processing (cleaning + anticorrosive), but if the rust has eaten through the metal, you will need complete replacement welded threshold. Postponing repairs is dangerous: corrosion spreads at speed 1–2 mm per year in aggressive conditions (salt, high humidity).
⚠️ Attention: if through holes appear on the threshold, do not limit yourself to cosmetic repairs (putty + painting). This “treatment” will extend the life of the part by a maximum of a year, and then the rust will return with a vengeance. In this case, only replacement!
Step-by-step instructions: how to replace thresholds with Octavia with your own hands
Replacing thresholds is a labor-intensive process, but if you have the tools and patience, you can do it in a weekend. The main thing is to take your time and follow the technology. Let's look at the algorithm using an example Octavia A7 (for A5 the steps are similar, but the mounting may be different).
Remove the negative terminal from the battery|Remove the front seats and floor mats|Disconnect the wiring of the footrests (if any)|Protect the windows and doors with masking tape|Prepare a welding machine (semi-automatic, 0.8 mm wire)
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Step 1. Dismantling the old threshold
First, use a grinder to cut off the outer trim (if it does not come with the new threshold). Then we carefully cut out the weld points of the internal threshold, being careful not to damage the side members and pillars. Use metal drill 4–5 mmto drill out the rivets securing the seals.
Important: do not cut the threshold “by eye” - first apply the markings with a marker, retreating 1-2 cm from the rust border. This will allow Later to weld the new element with a margin.
Step 2. Preparing a new threshold
Before installation, try on the part and, if necessary, adjust it to fit. Treat all surfaces anti-corrosion primer (for example, Body 930 from PPG) and apply 2 layers epoxy primer. This will protect the metal from oxidation during welding.
Step 3. Welding and assembly
Tack the new threshold with spot welding in 3-4 cm increments, then weld the seams with a continuous seam. After the metal has cooled, clean the seams petal circle and cover seam sealant (for example, 3M 08597). Don't forget to install new seals and treat the internal cavity ML-mastic.
| Tool/material | Purpose | Recommended Brand |
|---|---|---|
| Bulgarian (125 mm) | Cutting an old threshold | Makita GA5030 |
| Semiautomatic welding machine | Welding a new threshold | Fubag IN 163 |
| Anti-corrosion primer | Protecting metal before painting | PPG DP40 |
| ML-mastic | Treatment of internal cavities | Dinitrol 4941 |
⚠️ Attention: if this is your first time welding body parts, practice on unnecessary scraps of metal. Poor quality seams can become sources of new corrosion. Also don't use carbon dioxide welding without argon protection - this leads to porosity of the seam.
Before welding, stick to the joints copper foil — it will prevent burns through thin metal and improve heat dissipation.
Anti-corrosion treatment: how to protect thresholds for a long time
Even new thresholds without proper treatment will last no more than 2-3 years. To extend their life to 10+ years, use multi-layer protection:
- First layer:
zinc spray(for example, Zinc Rich Primer) - applied to bare metal. - Second layer:
epoxy primer(fills micropores). - Third layer:
acrylic paintin body color +varnish. - Fourth layer:
anti-gravel film(on external surfaces) orliquid locker(for internal cavities).
Ideal for internal thresholds Dinitrol 4941 — it does not harden completely, which allows the composition to “self-regenerate” in case of mechanical damage. Apply it through technological holes (if they are not there, drill with a diameter of 8–10 mm in the lower part of the threshold).
Among the budget protection methods:
- 🔹 Movil with rust converter (suitable for prevention, but not for severe corrosion).
- 🔹 Paraffin compounds (for example, Tectyl 506) - repel water well, but require reapplication every 2 years.
- 🔹 Bitumen mastic - cheap, but over time it cracks and accumulates dirt.
What happens if the thresholds are not treated after replacement?
Without anti-corrosion protection, the new threshold will begin to rust within 6-12 months. Corrosion appears especially quickly in welding areas where the metal loses its zinc coating. Internal cavities without ML mastic accumulate condensation, which speeds up the process by 2–3 times. In 3-4 years you will have to solve the problem again, but with double the costs.
How much does it cost to replace thresholds: price comparison 2026
The cost of work depends on the condition of the thresholds, the type of car and the region. The average prices in Russia are:
| Type of work | Octavia A5 | Octavia A7 | Octavia A8 (2020+) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Local repair (cleaning + putty) | 8 000–12 000 ₽ | 10 000–15 000 ₽ | 12 000–18 000 ₽ |
| Replacement of external threshold (1 pc.) | 15 000–22 000 ₽ | 18 000–25 000 ₽ | 20 000–30 000 ₽ |
| Replacing the power threshold (welding, 1 pc.) | 25 000–35 000 ₽ | 30 000–40 000 ₽ | 35 000–50 000 ₽ |
| Complete replacement (external + internal, 2 pcs.) | 50 000–70 000 ₽ | 60 000–85 000 ₽ | 75 000–100 000 ₽ |
Replacing it yourself will cost 50–70% less, but will require purchasing or renting a tool. For example, a welding machine can be rented for 1,500–2,500 rubles/day. Also consider consumables:
- 🔹 Thresholds (pair) — 5 000–15 000 ₽ (depending on the brand).
- 🔹 Primer + paint - 3 000–6 000 ₽.
- 🔹 ML-mastic - 1 500–2 500 ₽ per cylinder.
- 🔹 Electrodes/wire - 1 000–2 000 ₽.
If your budget is limited, consider partial replacement: for example, only external linings with anti-corrosion treatment of internal cavities. This is a temporary solution, but will extend the life of the thresholds by 3-5 years.
Savings on anti-corrosion treatment cost 2–3 times more after 3–4 years. It is better to immediately invest in quality materials (Dinitrol, PPG) than to redo the work.
Top 5 mistakes when replacing thresholds with Octavia
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that ruin all their efforts. That's it can't do when working with thresholds:
- Ignore internal corrosion. If you only replaced the outer threshold, but the inner one remains rusty, the problem will return in 1-2 years.
- Weld without gaps. There should be a gap of 1–2 mm between the new threshold and the body for anti-corrosion treatment.
- Use regular paint instead of epoxy primer. It does not protect against chips and cracks quickly.
- Close technological openings. They are needed for ventilation and application of ML mastic.
- Save on welding materials. Cheap wire produces porous seams that rust from the inside.
Another common mistake is incorrect fit. If the new threshold protrudes or is recessed relative to the body, this not only spoils the appearance, but also disrupts the aerodynamics, which leads to the accumulation of dirt in the joints.
⚠️ Attention: after replacing the thresholds, be sure to check body geometry at the stand. Improper welding can dislodge the side members, affecting handling and tire wear.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about thresholds Škoda Octavia
Is it possible to restore thresholds without welding?
Yes, but only if the corrosion is not through. For this they use fiberglass putty (for example, 3M 05889) with reinforcing mesh. However, such repairs last 1-2 seasons and require regular touch-ups. For a lasting solution, welding is a must.
Which thresholds are better - original or Polcar?
Original thresholds VAG win in terms of fit accuracy and durability, but Polcar (Poland) offers comparable quality for 30–40% of the price. The main thing is to check the presence of galvanization and the thickness of the metal (at least 0.8 mm). For Octavia A7 the thresholds have also proven themselves well Febi (article 26310).
How long does it take for ML mastic to dry inside a threshold?
Drying time depends on temperature: at +20°C - 24 hours, at +10°C - up to 48 hours. Do not rush to install the interior trim until the mastic has cured. To speed up the process you can use construction hair dryer (heat to 40–50°C).
Is it possible to paint thresholds with a spray can?
It is possible, but the result will be worse than with professional painting. To minimize color difference, use base varnish + hardener (for example, Mobihel) and apply 3-4 thin layers with intermediate drying. Be sure to prime before painting epoxy primer.
How often do thresholds need to be treated with anticorrosive?
With regular washing and use in the city - once every 2-3 years. If the car often drives through salt/mud (in winter) or sits outdoors, the treatment should be repeated annually. For internal cavities use ML mastics (they last longer), for external ones - liquid lockers or anti-gravel.