Owners Skoda Octavia Tour Over time, they face the inevitable question: when to change the depreciation racks? This model, built on the PQ34 platform, is known for its reliability, but the suspension, especially the front, is experiencing tremendous stress on our roads. Signs of wear do not appear immediately, but it becomes impossible to ignore them: knocking on the buds, loss of controllability and increased wear of tires.
Replacement process front pillars on Octavia Tour It has its own characteristics that distinguish it from the newer generations of the A5 or A7. The classic McPherson scheme is used here, but access to bolts and the specifics of the mounting can cause difficulties for beginners. The correct replacement guarantees not only comfort but also safety, as a serviceable suspension is critical to keeping the car on track.
Symptoms of wear and diagnostics before replacement
Before you go to the store for spare parts, you need to make sure of the diagnosis. Often owners Skoda Octavia confuse the knock of the rack with the knock of the stabilizer of transverse stability or the silent blocks of levers. If you feel hard hits in the steering wheel when passing "spoken cops", this is a sure sign that the shock absorber has lost its damping properties.
A visual examination will also provide a lot of information. Examine the anther of the rack for cracks and cuts. If the rubber is destroyed, dirt and water got inside the body, which led to rapid wear of the rod. Pay attention to the presence of oily undertights on the body of the shock absorber - even small spots indicate that the odule has lost its tightness.
- π The appearance of a characteristic "kick" or knock in the front of the body when driving on irregularities.
- π§ Visible traces of oil on the shock absorber body below the anther.
- π Driving the car aside during sharp braking or uneven wear of rubber.
It's important to run a rocking test. Pressing the corner of the hood with great force, release it. If the car has made more than two vibrations up and down, the racks can no longer cope with the task of quenching energy. Suspension diagnostics It should be comprehensive so as not to change the details in vain.
β οΈ Note: Do not try to determine wear only by sound without checking the backlashes in other elements. Often, the knock is passed from the levers, and replacing the racks will not solve the problem completely.
Selection of components and necessary tools
The quality of the replacement directly depends on the selected spare parts. For Octavia Tour The market offers a huge selection: from budget analogues to original details VAG. Experts strongly recommend not to put the cheapest racks, as their resource may not exceed 10-15 thousand kilometers. The best choice will be the racks from proven brands, such as Kayaba, Sachs or Monroe.
It's important to solve the spring issue. If the spring has sank or has cracks, its replacement is required. Many masters recommend changing the rack assembly with a spring and a support bearing to avoid repeated disassembly. This will save time and effort, although it will require additional costs.
You will need a standard set of tools to work, but there are nuances. Be sure to need a collar with an extension cord and a head of 18, 13, 15 mm. Pay special attention to the springs - without it, replacement is impossible, since the spring is under great tension.
- π§ Set of end heads (13, 15, 18, 21 mm) and a rattle collar.
- π¨ Hammer and mount for knocking out rusty fingers and pulling out levers.
- ποΈ The jack is a spring (screw type) and a jack with stands.
Don't forget about penetrating lubricant like WD-40 Or similar compounds. The slings of the slings are on the sling. Octavia Tour They are often crumpled, and without pre-treatment they can be broken, which will turn the replacement into a difficult repair.
- Original (VAG)
- Kayaba (KYB)
- Sachs
- Monroe
Step-by-step instructions for dismantling the old rack
You need to start work by preparing the car. Raise the front Skoda Octavia On the jack, install reliable stands under the thresholds and remove the wheel. Free up space for work by removing the engine protection if it interferes with access to the upper bolts of the mount.
First, you need to loosen the nut of the shock absorber rod. To do this, block the rod from turning. If you do not have a special key, you can use a hexagon inserted into the rod hole (if any), or pinch it in the vise through a wooden sash. Unscrew the nut, but don't take the bolt out to the end.
β οΈ Warning: Never unscrew the nut of the rod until the spring is compressed by the removable. This is life-threatening and can lead to injury by flying parts.
Then we unscrew the bolts of the mounting of the rack to the turning fist. There are usually two of them located at the bottom. They often sour, so use a long lever and pour them abundantly with lubrication. If the bolts are scrolling along with the nut, hold them with the key on the back side.
- π© Unscrew the nut of the shock absorber rod attachment from above.
- π© Disconnect the brake hose and ABS wire from the brackets on the rack.
- π© Smash the mounting bolts of the swivel fist and pull the rack aside.
After the lower mounts are freed, the rack can be removed from the arch. Carefully monitor the wiring so as not to damage it when removing the node. The old rack will be heavy, as it has a spring in it.
βοΈ Preparation for dismantling
Assembly of a new rack and installation
Building a new rack requires care. If you change only the shock absorber, you need to transfer the spring, upper support and bearing from the old rack. Use the spring removable to compress it to a safe state. Make sure that the spring is in its seat (there is a notch on the spring that should coincide with the support).
When installing the upper support, pay attention to the marking. There is usually an arrow pointing the direction forward. Incorrect installation of the bearing can lead to jamming of the steering wheel or the appearance of creaks. Tighten the nut of the rod with a new tightening moment recommended by the manufacturer.
Installation of the assembled unit in the arch is performed in reverse order. Insert the rack, combine the holes with a swivel fist and insert the bolts. Pull the rack to the fist, but do not tighten the bolts "to the point" completely until you lower the car to the ground.
- π§ Place the spring in the lower saddle, making sure the ends coincide.
- π§ Put on the top support and tighten the nut of the rod with a dynamometer key.
- π§ Fix the rack in the swivel fist and install the brake hose.
Nuances of bolt tightening
Bolts fastening the stand to the fist on Octavia Tour often require tightening at a moment of about 70-80 Nm, and the nut of the rod is 50-60 Nm. For the exact values, see the service documentation.
Features of regulation and final inspection
After installing all racks, it is necessary to lower the car to the ground. Now you can finally tighten the bolts of the rotary fist fastening. At this stage, the suspension is under load, which ensures the correct operation of the threaded connections.
Be sure to check the level of brake fluid and, if necessary, add it. When the rack is removed, the hoses may have stretched or shifted, sometimes resulting in air in the system, although this is rare.
The most important stage is the collapse-convergence. After replacing the front pillars, the suspension geometry is broken, and the wheels need correction. Without this procedure, you will ruin new tires a couple of thousand kilometers away. Don't skimp on this stage.
| Detail | Recommended Brand | Service life (km) | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Original (VAG) | Skoda | 100 000+ | High price, perfect balance |
| Analogue (Premium) | Kayaba / Sachs | 60 000 - 80 000 | Optimal price/quality ratio |
| Budget option | Mapco / Boge | 30 000 - 40 000 | Suitable for relaxed driving |
Before starting work on replacing racks, be sure to take a picture of the steering wheel position and the angle of the wheel installation to have a landmark when assembly.
Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them
One of the most common mistakes is trying to tighten the nut of the shock absorber rod without fixing the rod itself. This leads to the rod twisting inside the shock absorber, which causes it to quickly fail. Always use a special key or hexagon to hold.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the bearings. If you change the racks and leave the old bearings, they may start knocking in a month. Replacement of supports It should be carried out in conjunction with the racks, if the mileage of the car exceeds 100 thousand kilometers.
They often forget about protecting the dust. If you are putting a new rack but the old anther has cracked and is not refurbishable, be sure to buy a new kit. The dust protects the rod from dirt, and without it the damper resource will decrease significantly.
β οΈ Note: Do not use old mount bolts if they have signs of corrosion or deformation. This is critical for the safety of the suspension.
Regular check of suspension condition and timely replacement of worn-out elements will prolong the life of the car and ensure safety on the road.
Cost of work and economic feasibility
Many owners Octavia Tour Ask yourself: do the replacement yourself or contact the service? Self-replacement will save a significant amount, since the cost of work on the service station can be from 3000 to 5000 rubles per axle. However, this requires a pit or lift and a special tool.
If you decide to turn to professionals, choose services that specialize in suspension. Make sure they use a dynamometer key and perform a break-down in the complex. Savings on quality of work can turn into expensive repairs in the future.
The final cost of replacing one turnkey rack (parts + work + descent-fall) varies between 15 000 - 25 000 rubles per pair. This is a reasonable investment in safety, given that a serviceable suspension is the key to predictable vehicle behavior.
How often should I change the front racks on the Ε KODA Octavia Tour?
Average life of the front struts Octavia Tour It is 80,000 to 100,000 km, but it depends heavily on the quality of the roads and driving style. In aggressive driving, replacement may be required as early as 50,000 km.
Is it possible to change racks one at a time?
Theoretically possible, but highly discouraged. The shock absorbers wear out about the same, and replacing one rack will create an imbalance in the suspension. It is better to change both racks on the same axis at the same time.
Do I need to change springs when replacing struts?
If the springs have not sank and have no cracks, they can be left. However, on cars with a mileage of more than 150,000 km, springs often lose their stiffness, so replacing them is a recommended procedure for restoring the factory characteristics of the suspension.
How long does it take to replace the pillars?
An experienced master will spend about 40-60 minutes on replacing one rack. A beginner with no experience and with the selection of the tool may take from 3 to 5 hours to work with both parties.
What happens if you donβt do a wheel alignment after replacement?
The car can start to take a sideways, the steering wheel will become unstable, and the front tires will wear unevenly in a very short time. This will lead to the need for premature replacement of rubber and deterioration of handling.