Any owner of a brand car Skoda Octavia faces the need to maintain the chassis. One of the most common problems is front wheel bearing wear. Symptoms can be different: from an extraneous hum when driving to play in the wheel, which is felt even when parked.
Ignoring this malfunction can lead to serious consequences. At best, you will get the hub destroyed and the wheel jammed while driving. At worst, the steering knuckle will be destroyed and costly repairs to the entire suspension. Therefore, diagnosis and timely replacement hub assembly or bearing is a safety critical issue.
Symptoms of wear and diagnostics before replacement
The first sign that the bearing front axle began to fail, there is a characteristic hum. This sound is often confused with tire noise, but there is an easy way to check. When driving at a speed of 60β80 km/h, try turning the steering wheel slightly in the direction opposite to the suspect wheel. If the hum becomes quieter, the problem is in the bearing.
In later stages of wear, play appears. Raise the car on a jack and, shaking the wheel with your hands (holding it at 12 and 6 o'clock), try to identify the gap. If the hub has play that cannot be eliminated by tightening the nut, the bearing needs to be changed. The ABS light on the dashboard may also come on, since the speed sensor is often built into the unit and suffers from destruction.
Sometimes the wheel bearing Octavia can manifest itself not only through sound, but also through beating of the steering wheel or vibration at high speeds. This indicates that the inner race is already worn out and the rolling has become uneven. You should not expect complete destruction, since the cost of the work will depend on whether the steering knuckle will have to be replaced.
Selection of spare parts: original or analogue?
There are a huge number of offers on the auto parts market. For models Skoda Octavia A5, A7 and A8 (Tour, Tour, Combi) choice is critical. Original bearing from VAG (Volkswagen Group) is of the highest quality, but is often overpriced. A good alternative are first-tier brands such as SKF, FAG or SNR.
When choosing, pay attention to the complete set. In some cases, it is more profitable to buy not just a bearing, but a hub assembled. This simplifies installation, as you do not need to press the old part and press the new one. For cars with ABS, it is important that the sensor is integrated into the bearing or supplied as a kit.
- π§ SKF - German brand, the standard of reliability for VAG suspension.
- π§ FAG It is a great option, often as an original part.
- π§ NTN-SNR French quality, ideal for front-wheel drive models.
- β Chinese nonames They can only last a few thousand kilometers.
Necessary tools and preparation
The process of replacing a hub bearing requires a specialized tool. Without a lifter for bearings or a hydraulic press, it is almost impossible to perform the work qualitatively. You will also need powerful end keys, as the hub nut tightens with a big moment.
Prepare the work station. It is best to carry out work on the observation pit or lift. If you only have a jack, be sure to use reliable stands under the body. Safety is a priority. You will also need a balloon key, a dynamometer key and penetrating lubricant to unscrew the boiling bolts.
- π Jack and recoil stops.
- π Socket set (including
30 mmfor the hub nut). - π A lift for mortar bearings or a mandrel for pressing.
- π Dynamometer key for tightening with the right moment.
- Original VAG
- Brand SKF/FAG
- Budget analogue
- Buying a hub in the assembly
Step-by-step replacement instructions
Start by removing the wheel and removing the caliper. Do not hang the caliper on the brake hose - tie it with a wire to the suspension spring. Next, remove the brake disc. If it is boiling, gently tap it in a circle with a hammer through a wooden pad.
The next stage is the unwinding of the bolts of the rotary fist attachment to the shock absorber rack. There are often problems here: bolts can be tightened very much. Use a long collar and penetrating lubricant. Tightening torque Fist bolts are usually around 120-150 Nm, but it is better to check in the service book for your model.
After the fist is disconnected, the drive shaft must be removed. This is the hardest part. Do not hit the shaft with a hammer, as you may damage the SRUS. Use a special remover or gently dent the shaft with a mount. If you have an ABS model, gently turn off the speed sensor connector.
βοΈ Preparation for dismantling
What to do if the bolts are stuck?
Use penetrating lubricant type WD-40 or more powerful analogues (for example, "Litol-24" in a mixture with kerosene). Heating the bolt with a burner also helps, but be careful not to damage the rubber suspension elements. If the bolt still fails, try hitting the bolt head through the puncher to knock the rust off the thread.
You can now remove the swivel fist from the car. If the bearing has not changed in the assembly with a fist, it must be pressed. For this, use a removable or press. Important: press strictly on the inner clip of the old bearing, so as not to damage the seat in the fist.
Before installing a new bearing, clean the seat of rust and dirt. Apply a thin layer of lubrication. Pressing the new element is necessary only on the external clip. This requires a lot of effort, so use a hydraulic tool. Make sure the bearing is up straight, without skewing.
Before pressing the new bearing, check its rotation. It should spin smoothly, without jamming and extraneous sounds. Any roughness is a sign of marriage.
Features of the design of different generations
The design of the chassis y Octavia A5 newer A7 or A8 It's different. On older models, detachable hubs are often used, where the bearing is pressed separately. On new generations, there are more often indissoluble nodes in the assembly, which change entirely.
On vehicles with all-wheel drive 4x4 The process is complicated by the presence of a rear axle and a more massive hub. The timing of the nut tightening on the hub on all-wheel drive versions may differ. Please consult the technical documentation for specific modifications to your Skoda.
| Model | Node type | Hub nut tightening moment (Nm) | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Octavia A5 (1Z) | Separate bearing | 225 + final | Often requires removal of the brake disc. |
| Octavia A7 (5E) | Hub assembly | 350 + final | Integrated ABS sensor |
| Octavia A8 (NX) | Hub assembly | 350 + final | Sophisticated electronics, need a scanner |
| Octavia 4x4 | Hub assembly | 350 + final | Reinforced design |
Common mistakes during repairs
One of the most serious mistakes is the wrong tightening of the nut of the hub. If you tighten too weakly, the bearing will quickly collapse due to backlash. If you tighten too much, the gap in the bearing will be broken, and it will overheat, which will lead to a quick failure. Use the dynamometer key!
Another mistake is using a hammer to press the bearing. The impacts on the body of the bearing destroy its internal structure. Even if you donβt damage immediately, microcracks will cause premature wear and tear. It is forbidden to strike directly on the body of the bearing during installation.
You should also not save on lubrication. If you change only the bearing (not in the collection), it must be qualitatively filled with a special lubricant for the hub nodes. Lack of lubrication will lead to overheating and jamming. Use only quality materials such as Li-2 Or specialized lubricants for hubs.
Proper tightening of the hub nut and the use of a dynamometer key is the key to the long service of the bearing.
Why is the hub nut so tight?
The nut of the hub has a locking mechanism (unfolding or locking washer), which keeps it from unscrewing. This creates a huge resistance when unscrewed. Use a powerful gate and possibly heating the nuts (without bigotry) to ease the landing.
Check after installation
After assembling all the nodes, be sure to check the correct installation. The wheel should rotate freely, without noise and jamming. Luft must be absent. If you hear a knock or creak, you may have missed something or damaged the part during installation.
The first 500 kilometers of operation after the bearing replacement should be driven carefully. Avoid sharp starts, slips and passage of deep pits. This will allow the details to get lost and show how good the repair was. If everything is in order, the hum will disappear and the steering wheel will work softer.
Donβt forget to check the ABS system. If the sensor has been disabled or replaced, an error may burn on the dashboard. In some cases, a diagnostic scanner is required to reset errors and adapt the system. This is especially true for models. Octavia A7 and A8.
When assembly, do not forget to put a protective cap on the hub nut, if it is provided by the design. This will protect the carving from corrosion and dirt.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I drive with a worn bearing?
Technically possible, but not recommended. Any backlash in the hub leads to the destruction of seats, which will eventually lead to the replacement of the entire swivel fist and significantly increase the cost of repair. It also creates a threat of jamming the wheel on the go.
Do the bearings need to be replaced on both sides?
Not if the other side is working properly. However, given the same mileage and operating conditions, it is often recommended to change them in pairs. This will save time in the future if the second bearing starts to make noise in a month.
How long does it take to replace?
For an experienced craftsman, replacing one front bearing takes 1 to 2 hours. For a beginner with the need to find a tool and study the instructions, this process can take 3-4 hours.
What to do if the hub nut does not unscrew?
Try using penetrating lubricant and warm up the nut. If this does not help, you may need to unscrew the drive shaft or remove the hub from the car for more convenient access to the nut. Use extension cords for the lever, but be careful.
Does replacing the bearing affect the fall-up?
The replacement process itself does not require adjustment of the wheel installation angles, since the suspension geometry does not change. However, if you removed the levers during the disassembly or changed the position of the fist, checking the collapse-descendence will not be superfluous.