Replacing rear brake pads on a ŠKODA Roomster: a detailed guide with photos and videos

Rear brake pads on ŠKODA Roomster - a consumable that requires attention every 30–50 thousand km (depending on driving style and operating conditions). Their wear is not always noticeable to the eye, but it is dangerous to ignore the problem: increased braking distance, overheating of drums or discs, and in a critical situation - complete brake failure. In this article we will look at how replace the rear pads yourself on Roomster (including models with 1.2 TSI, 1.4 MPI and 1.6 TDI), without resorting to the help of a service station.

Features of the rear brake system Roomster - combination drum mechanisms (on basic versions) and disk (on cars with motors 1.8 TSI or in top trim levels). We will describe both options in detail, indicate unique nuances for each type of brakes (for example, adjusting the hand brake after replacing the pads on drum systems) and warn against typical mistakes that even experienced car owners make.

When to change rear pads on a ŠKODA Roomster: signs of wear

The manufacturer recommends checking the condition of the pads every 15 thousand km, but their actual service life depends on many factors: from the quality of spare parts to the frequency of use of the handbrake. Here are the key signs that it's time to go to the garage:

• 🚨 Creaking or squealing when braking - the first signal about critical wear of the friction layer. On Roomster With drum brakes, the sound may be less noticeable than with disc brakes.
• 🔧 Increased brake pedal travel or its “softness” - indicates an ineffective fit of the pads to the drum/disc.
• 🔥 Overheating of the rear wheels after a ride (determined by hand - if the rim is too hot, this is a warning sign).
• ⚠️ The handbrake doesn't hold even on the third or fourth click - a common problem when the pads wear on drum brakes.

On Roomster with ESP (electronic stabilization system) can indicate a brake malfunction ABS indicator on the dashboard. This is due to the fact that the system sensors detect uneven braking of the wheels. If the light comes on, immediately diagnose the brakes using a scanner (for example, VCDS or OBDeleven).

⚠️ Attention: On cars with drum brakes, pad wear often goes unnoticed until the last moment. The fact is that the friction material in the drums wears off evenly, and the “creak” (metal wear indicator) may not touch the surface. Check the thickness of the pads visually or through the inspection window in the brake mechanism panel!

Which pads to choose: original vs analogues

Original spare parts for ŠKODA Roomster supplies TRW (article for rear drum pads - GDB1445, for disk - GDB3460). Their average price is 2,500–3,500 rub. per set per axle. However, many owners choose analogues from trusted brands:

Brand	Article (drum)	Article (disk)	Price per axle, rub.	Features
ATE	13.0460-7106.2	13.0460-7158.2	1 800–2 200	Soft friction material, minimal wear on drums
Brembo	P 24 060	P 58 027	2 300–2 800	Increased resource, but the first 200 km may creak
Ferodo	FSB631	FDB1937	2 000–2 500	Optimal price/quality ratio, suitable for aggressive driving style
Bosch	0 986 494 219	0 986 494 793	2 100–2 600	Low dust levels, but wears out faster with frequent braking

When choosing analogues, pay attention to friction material composition:

• 🔹 Semi-metallic pads (containing copper or steel) are more durable, but are noisier and wear out the drums/discs more.
• 🔹 Ceramic less aggressive to braking surfaces, but more expensive and may perform worse at low temperatures.
• 🔹 Organic (based on resins and fiberglass) - the softest, but wear out quickly during intense driving.

For Roomster with drum brakes it is better to choose pads with high copper content (for example, ATE PremiumOne), since they remove heat better and “stick” to the drum less. For disc brakes, ceramic analogues from Brembo or Textar.

Tools and materials for replacement

To work you will need:

• 🔧 Jack and supports (or lift). On Roomster It is convenient to use a jack with a platform under the threshold - this eliminates the risk of damage to the plastic body kit.
• 🔨 Balloon wrench (size 17 mm for most versions).
• 🛠️ Socket set and ratchet wrench (necessarily heads on 13 mm, 15 mm and 17 mm).
• 🔩 Hammer (for tapping drums) and flat blade screwdriver (to remove retaining rings).
• 🧴 WD-40 or rust remover (sticky bolts are a common problem on cars older than 5 years).
• 🧤 Brake Lubricant (for example, Permatex 24110) for guides and the back of the pads.
• 📏 Vernier caliper or a ruler to measure the remaining thickness of the pads.

For disc brakes you will additionally need:

• 🔧 Special piston puller (or clamp with adapter).
• 🧴 Brake cleaner (for example, Liqui Moly Bremsen-Reiniger).

⚠️ Attention: Never use to lubricate guide calipers. graphite grease or Litol! These compounds cannot withstand high temperatures and can cause the piston to seize. Only specialized brake lubricants based on copper or ceramics.

Place the car on a flat surface and secure the front wheels with chocks |

Release the handbrake all the way down (this will make it easier to remove the drum)|

Clean the brake mechanisms from dirt with compressed air or a brush |

Prepare new pads and tools in the access area|

Take a photo of the location of the springs and rods (for drum brakes) -->

Step-by-step replacement of rear pads on drum brakes

Drum brakes were installed on Roomster with motors 1.2 HTP, 1.4 MPI and 1.6 TDI (before facelift in 2010). Their main advantage is the simplicity of the design, the minus is the difficulty of adjusting the handbrake after replacing the pads. Follow the instructions:

Step 1: Removing the Wheel and Drum

Raise the rear of the car with a jack and remove the wheel. Next:

1. Unscrew the drum guide pins (if any) with a socket on 13 mm.
2. Gently tap the drum in a circle with a rubber mallet to dislodge it from its seat. If the drum does not budge, screw two bolts into the technological holes M8 - this will help to remove it evenly.
3. After dismantling the drum, clean its internal surface from dust and rust with a wire brush.

Step 2. Dismantling old pads

Inside the drum you will see two shoes, tightened by springs. Procedure:

1. Using pliers, remove the upper and lower tension springs.
2. Disconnect the handbrake cable from the shoe lever (remember or take a photo of its position!).
3. Remove the spacer bar and pad retainers.
4. Remove the pads from the base plate. Please note the condition working cylinders — if they have traces of brake fluid leaks, they also need to be replaced.

Step 3. Installing new pads

Before installing new pads:

• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the backing plate.
• Install the pads in reverse order, starting with the clips and spacer.
• Connect the handbrake cable and adjust its tension (more on this in the next section).
• Reinstall the drum and tighten the guide pins.

Adjusting the handbrake after replacing the pads

On Roomster With drum brakes, the handbrake is adjustable in two places: on a rope (under the car) and on the lever (in the salon). If after replacing the brake pads the handbrake does not hold or is too tight, follow these steps:

Adjustment under the car:

1. Raise the rear of the car so that the wheels are hanging in the air.
2. Find cable equalizer handbrake (located under the bottom, near the rear beam).
3. Loosen the locknut on the adjusting rod with a wrench 13 mm.
4. Tighten the adjusting nut until the wheels lock when the lever is raised 3-4 clicks.
5. Tighten the locknut and check the operation of the handbrake.

Adjustment in the cabin:

If, after adjusting under the car, the handbrake still does not work correctly, check:

• 🔧 Lever travel — it should lock the wheels at 3–5 clicks (the norm for Roomster).
• 🔧 Cable play - if the cable sags, it needs to be tightened or replaced.
• 🔧 Drum condition - if they have a production of more 0.5 mm, they should be sharpened or replaced.

⚠️ Attention: After replacing the pads on drum brakes first 100–200 km Avoid sudden braking! New pads take time to get used to the drum. During this period, braking distances may be longer than usual.

What to do if the handbrake is not adjustable?

If the adjusting nut on the cable is tightened all the way, but the handbrake still does not hold, the problem may be:

1. Stretched ropes — replacement required (article number for Roomster: 6Q0 609 611).

2. Jammed working cylinders — check their mobility, replace if necessary.

3. Deformed pads - if they are installed crookedly, the handbrake lever will not cling normally.

Replacing rear pads on disc brakes

Disc brakes were installed on Roomster with motors 1.8 TSI and in top trim levels (for example, Style or Scout). Replacing them is easier than drum ones, but requires care when working with the caliper. Procedure:

Step 1: Removing the caliper

1. Raise the car and remove the wheel.
2. Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket (head on 15 mm).
3. Carefully hang the caliper on a wire or a special hook so as not to damage the brake hose.

Step 2: Replacing the pads

1. Remove the old pads from the bracket. Please note guide plates - if they are rusty or deformed, replace them.
2. Clean the bracket and caliper from dirt and old grease.
3. Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the back of the new pads and guides.
4. Install the pads into the bracket, making sure they are aligned spring clamps up.

Step 3. Recessing the caliper piston

Since the new pads are thicker, the caliper piston needs to be recessed. To do this:

• Use a special puller or clamp with an adapter.
• Rotary piston (on some versions Roomster) must be screwed clockwise while pressing.
• Make sure that the piston moves smoothly - if it sticks, the caliper requires repair.

Step 4. Assembly and pumping

After installing the caliper in place:

• Press the brake pedal several times to press the pads against the disc.
• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir - it could rise when the piston is recessed.
• Test the brakes while driving, starting at low speed (5–10 km/h).

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when replacing rear pads with Roomster. Here are the most common:

• 🚫 Incorrect installation of springs on drum brakes — leads to uneven wear of the pads or jamming of the mechanism. Always take photos of the original position of the parts!
• 🚫 Ignoring guide lubrication — without it, the pads will jam and the caliper will rattle on bumps.
• 🚫 Handbrake cable tightening - this leads to premature wear of the pads and overheating of the drums. Optimal tension: 3-4 clicks of the lever to completely lock the wheels.
• 🚫 Using incompatible brake fluid - for Roomster suitable only DOT 4 (original article number - G 004 000 M2). DOT 5.1 or DOT 3 lead to swelling of the cuffs and brake failure.
• 🚫 Forgetting to bleed the brakes after replacing pads on disc systems. This is mandatory even if you have not opened the hydraulic circuit!

Another common problem is new pads squeak. It may occur due to:

• 🔊 Low quality friction material (especially with cheap analogues).
• 🔊 Grease getting on the working surface of the pads - Always apply lubricant only to the reverse side!
• 🔊 Incorrect running-in — for the first 200 km, avoid sudden braking.

If the squeaking does not go away after break-in, try applying it to the back of the pads. anti-squeak paste (for example, Liqui Moly Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing rear pads

Is it possible to replace only the front pads if the rear ones are still in good condition?

No, it upsets the balance of the braking system. On Roomster The rear pads wear out slower than the front ones, but they Be sure to change in pairs on the same axis (left and right wheel at the same time). If you replace only the front pads, the car may pull to the side when braking, and the braking distance will increase.

How often should you check the rear brake pads on a ŠKODA Roomster?

The manufacturer recommends inspection every 15 thousand km, but in practice it is enough to check the pads:

• At every maintenance (every 30 thousand km).
• If you experience squeaks or vibrations when braking.
• After heavy loads (for example, driving in mountainous areas with frequent use of the handbrake).

On drum brakes, the thickness of the pads can be checked through the inspection window in the shield without removing the drum.

What should I do if the brake pedal becomes soft after replacing the pads?

This is a sign air entering the system or Master brake cylinder malfunction. First try:

1. Bleed the brakes (starting from the rear right wheel).
2. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.
3. Inspect the brake hoses for cracks or leaks.

If the problem persists, diagnostics at a service station are required to check the tightness of the system.

Is it possible to drive if only one pad on the axle wears out?

No! Uneven wear of the pads on one axis indicates:

• Jammed working cylinder (for drum brakes).
• Soured caliper guide (for disc brakes).
• Damaged brake hose.

Operating the car in this condition is dangerous - this leads to pulling to the side when braking and increased wear of the hub bearings.

Do I need to change brake drums or discs along with pads?

It depends on their condition:

• For drums internal production is critical. If the groove depth exceeds 0.5 mm, the drums need to be sharpened or replaced (original article number - 6Q0 609 601).
• For disks minimum thickness - 8.4 mm (nominal - 10 mm). If the disk is thinner, it must be changed (part number - 6Q0 615 601).

Also, the disk or drum must be replaced if there are cracks, deep corrosion or beating (checked with an indicator when the wheel rotates).