The wheel drive system is one of the most loaded components of a car, especially in our road conditions. For the owner Skoda Octavia Tour characteristic clicks when turning or vibration during acceleration often signal critical wear of the constant velocity joints. Ignoring these symptoms can result in a wheel seizing while driving, which can have serious safety consequences.
Replacement CV joint on this car requires not only a set of tools, but also an understanding of the specifics of the suspension design VAG Group. Unlike many other cars, it is important to observe the maximum tightening torque of the wheel rim bolts and the hub nut, since the integrity of the entire transmission depends on this. Installation errors can lead to rapid failure of the new joint or wheel bearing.
In this material we will analyze all stages of work: from fault diagnosis to final assembly. You will learn how to properly dismantle the drive without damaging the gearbox seal, and how to choose high-quality spare parts that will last a long time. We will pay attention to subtleties that are often silent about in standard manuals, but which are critical specifically for the model Octavia Tour with front-wheel drive.
Diagnosis of faults and selection of suitable spare parts
Before proceeding with disassembly, it is necessary to accurately confirm the diagnosis. A characteristic sound reminiscent of a crunch or metallic grinding sound, which occurs only when the steering wheel is turned, indicates wear on the outer joint. If vibration is felt on a straight section of the road when accelerating, the problem lies in the inner CV joint or in its cage.
Choosing a spare part is half the success of a repair. There is a wide range on the market: from cheap analogues to original parts. Skoda. For Octavia Tour It is recommended to choose brands that specialize in transmissions, as they use stronger alloys and high-quality lubrication. The original often costs more, but its service life is longer if used correctly.
- π οΈ Original number: Look for parts by VIN as actuators may vary depending on engine and transmission type.
- π οΈ High class analogues: Brands like GKN, SPIDAN or KAMOKA have proven themselves to be reliable substitutes.
- π οΈ Completeness: Be sure to check that the boot, circlips and new lubricant are included in the kit.
It is important to understand that replacing only one CV joint is often a temporary measure. If one joint is worn out, the second one is most likely in a similar condition due to the same load. Transmission seal It is also worth checking for leaks, as oil can destroy the rubber of the new boot.
β οΈ Attention: Never install a new CV joint on an old, worn drive shaft if it has signs of corrosion or mechanical damage. This will lead to rapid destruction of the new node.
- Front
- Full (4x4)
- Rear
- I don't know
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
To do the job well, you will need a professional tool. A regular jack and a set of wrenches will not be enough, since it is necessary to knock down the bolts welded to the hub and remove the shaft from the gearbox. Failure to use specialized equipment may result in damaged parts or personal injury.
You will definitely need: a powerful wrench, a wheel wrench with an extension, a mounting blade, a set of sockets (from 13 to 32 mm), a hammer and, most importantly, a ball joint remover and a hub nut with a tightening torque of more than 200 Nm. If you don't have a torque wrench, it's best to have a professional tighten the hub nut.
βοΈ List of required tools
Prepare the place of work: the car should stand on a flat surface, and the wheels should be reliably fixed with recoil stops. Remove the wheel and clean the hub area of dirt and rust. Use penetrating lubricant for ball support and hub nut attachment bolts to facilitate their subsequent unwinding.
Dismantling of the drive shaft and the hub assembly
We start the disassembly with the unscrewing of the mortar nut. It usually has left or right thread depending on the side, but the standard right thread is most often used. The nut has a very high degree of tightening, so a significant effort will be required. If the car is on the ground, the nut will scroll along with the wheel, so stop the brake disc.
Next, disconnect the steering tip from the swivel fist. Use the removable so as not to damage the thread and the tip itself. With a sharp hammer hit on the body of the swivel fist (not on the thread of the tip!), you will knock out your finger. Then, turn the sleeves over to the sleeves.
- π§ Accuracy: Do not damage the brake hose when pulling the swivel fist aside.
- π§ Watch out for the anther.: Try not to tear the anther of the inner SRUS when pulling the shaft out of the box.
- π§ Fixation: Fix the rotary fist so that it does not interfere with the removal of the shaft.
Now it is necessary to remove the drive shaft from the gearbox differential. Insert the mounting blade between the box and the drive and gently dent it. The shaft should come out with a characteristic cotton. Do not pull the shaft with your handsThis can damage the oal or the body of the differential. Substitute the container under the box, as when the shaft is removed, part of the oil will flow out.
What to do if the shaft does not come out?
If the drive is jammed in the differential, do not put excessive effort. Try to slightly knock on the end of the shaft through a wooden spacer or use a special skipper. Sometimes it helps to warm up the oil dryer, but only in extreme cases, so as not to melt the rubber.
Replacement of joints of equal angular velocities
If you are replacing only the SRUS itself, and not the entire drive assembly, you will have to remove the old hinge. To do that, you have to knock him off the rampart. Use a special mandrel or pipe segment, hitting the inner ring of the hinge so as not to damage the shaft. The old SRUS usually comes with new anthers, but if you plan to keep the old one, it needs to be gently cut and removed.
Before installing a new hinge, thoroughly clean the shaft of old lubrication and rust. Apply fresh lubrication to the shaft slits and inside the body of the new SRUS. Install a locking ring if it goes separately and put on a new anther. It is important to properly tighten the clamps: first tighten the small clamping at the base, then the large one.
Installing an internal SRUS requires special care. When inserting the shaft back into the gearbox, it must enter before the locking ring clicks. If you hear a click, it means that the shaft has sat down. Do not check the reliability of the landing, just pulling the shaft.You better spin it with your hand.
Before installing a new anther, be sure to check it for microcracks. Even a small crack will lead to dirt and a quick break in the hinge.
β οΈ Note: When installing a new SRUS, make sure that the locking ring is completely entered into the groove on the shaft. If the ring does not sit down to the end, the drive can pop out of the gearbox while driving.
Proper installation of the locking ring is a key factor in the reliability of the drive, as it keeps the shaft from falling out of the differential during vibrations.
Knot assembly and fastening tightening
Once the SRUS is installed, assemble the node in reverse order. Insert the drive into the hub, connect the ball support and the steering tip. Tighten the nuts of the ball support and tip attachment with the recommended moment. Donβt forget to install new splints if they are provided by the design.
The most important moment is the tightening of the hub nut. For Skoda Octavia Tour This moment is about 200-225 Nm, depending on the year of production and the type of engine. Use the dynamometer key. If there is no such tool, tighten the nut as much as possible, but it is best to contact the STO for the final roll.
Set the wheel and lower the car to the ground. After the car is completely down on the wheels, check the tightening of the wheel bolts again. This is necessary, since when hung on a jack bolts can scroll, creating a false impression of their tightness.
| Type of puff. | Moment (Nm) | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hub nut | 200-225 | Torque wrench | Requires maximum accuracy |
| Wheel bolts | 120 | Torque wrench | Tighten crosswise |
| Ball joint | 20-30 | Regular key | A new splint must be required |
| Steering end | 20-30 | Regular key | Check the condition of the boot |
Quality check and test drive
Before starting the movement, check the oil level in the gearbox. If a lot of liquid leaked when extracting the shaft, it is necessary to add to the norm. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Listen carefully to the sounds from the transmission area.
Move carefully and drive a short distance. Turn the steering wheel left and right to check the external SRUS. Then accelerate to 40-50 km / h and check for no vibrations. If everything is normal, you can make a full test drive.
- π ListenAny new sounds when turning or accelerating require a stop and recheck.
- π Visual inspection: After the trip, check if the lubricant has come out from under the anther clamps.
- π Geometry: if the steering tip has been removed, a fall-up may be required.
β οΈ Note: If after replacing the SRUC you feel the rudder beating or body vibration during acceleration, it is possible that the shaft was set curved or damaged during dismantling. In this case, do not continue to operate.
The first 500 kilometers after the replacement of the SRUS, it is recommended to avoid sharp starts and extreme loads, so that new details are worn out.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can you replace only the external SRUS without removing the drive completely?
Theoretically possible, but highly discouraged. To do this, you need to completely disassemble the suspension, which is almost equal to replacing the entire drive. In addition, the risk of damaging the oal box when removing the shaft without dismantling the entire assembly is very high.
How much oil will leak when you remove the drive?
Usually about 200-300 ml of oil leaks out of the gearbox. This is not critical for volume, but the level still needs to be checked and, if necessary, added. Use the transmission oil recommended by the manufacturer (usually G 052 171 A2 for mechanics).
Is it necessary to do a wheel alignment after replacing the CV joint?
If you have not touched the steering rods and tips, then the descent-shattering is not necessary. However, if the steering tip mounts were unscrewed, it is recommended to check the angles of the wheel installation, since a violation of geometry can lead to uneven wear of the tires.
Why did the new SWAT start to crunch immediately after installation?
This can mean several things: a defect in the part, improper installation of the locking ring, damage to the osteoil or getting dirt inside during installation. It is also possible that the problem was not in the SRUS, but in the hub bearing or backlash in the suspension.
How often should I change the SHRUS anther?
The dust has no scheduled replacement period, but it must be inspected at each scheduled maintenance. As soon as you see cracks, ruptures or traces of leaked lubrication, the anther should be changed immediately. Operation with a damaged anther kills the SRUS several hundred kilometers away.