Replacement of the ล KODA Octavia Tour front pillar: The Guide

Vehicle operation Skoda Octavia Tour in Russian road conditions it often leads to accelerated wear of suspension elements. Front pillar The shock absorber is one of the most loaded nodes taking on blows from irregularities of the road surface. If you notice a knock in the front or a deterioration in handling, the problem may be hiding here.

Ignoring the symptoms of malfunction can cause nearby nodes to fail, such as suspension arm or hub. In addition, a faulty rack significantly reduces driving safety, especially when braking emergency or in corners. Timely replacement of the unit will return the car stability and comfort characteristic of the car. Octavia Tour.

Many owners choose self-repair to save on the services of a car service. However, work with suspension requires a special tool and strict adherence to technology. In this article, we will take a detailed look at all the stages of replacement, from diagnosis to final geometry tuning.

Diagnosis of faults and selection of spare parts

Before starting to disassemble, you need to make sure the causes of knocking. Often owners confuse a faulty rack with problems support bearing Or the Silent Blocks of Levers. The characteristic knock that appears when passing small irregularities at low speed, most often indicates wear of the shock absorber.

For accurate diagnosis, it is recommended to conduct a visual examination. Pay attention to the presence of oil stains on the body of the shock absorber. If the rubber of the anther is torn, and the mechanism itself is covered with dirt and oil, replacement is required. Check it out, too. bumper If it is torn or flattened, it will not be able to extinguish the blows.

When choosing new parts, you have two main ways: buying original parts or analogues. Original racks from Skoda They are usually marked VW and guarantee factory quality, but are much more expensive. Analog manufacturers offer decent solutions at a more attractive price.

Among the popular brands that have proven themselves among the owners Octavia Tour, we can highlight:

  • ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ฐ KYB (Kayaba) - excellent gas shock absorbers with good energy intensity;
  • ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช Sachs soft racks, as close as possible to factory characteristics;
  • ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช Bilstein reliable and durable, but with a more rigid setup;
  • ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ณ Monroe A budget option, often used as a temporary solution.

This will ensure a uniform load distribution and the same vehicle behaviour on the road. Installation of one new and one old rack will cause a skewed suspension.

Necessary tools and preparation

To perform the work, you will need a garage with a lift or an observation pit. The presence of a good jack and reliable stands under the body is a prerequisite for safety. Without a special tool, replace the front rack with Skoda Octavia Tour It is almost impossible or extremely dangerous.

You will need a set of heads and keys, including hexagons and rattles. Pay special attention to the tool for compressing springs, as working with it without it is fraught with injuries. Also, do not forget about the removable steering tips and the balloon key.

Before starting work, the workplace must be prepared. Make sure that the car is on a flat surface and is reliably fixed with recoil stops. If you plan to do a descent-breakdown immediately after replacement, check the presence of a stand in the nearest service.

List of required tools:

  • ๐Ÿ”ง Set of end heads (from 10 to 21 mm) and extension cords;
  • ๐Ÿ”ง jack hydraulic and safety stands (goats);
  • ๐Ÿ”ง Screams for suspension springs (special tool);
  • ๐Ÿ”ง Hammer, mounting and WD-40 for processing sour bolts;
  • ๐Ÿ”ง Dynamometer key for tightening the fastener with the desired force.

Also, make sure to have a penetrating lubricant in advance. Bolts mounting the swivel fist and levers on mileage cars are often attached to the details. Extensive processing of WD-40 15-20 minutes before the start of work will save you a lot of energy and nerves.

Step-by-step instructions for dismantling and installation

The replacement process begins with the lifting of the car. Remove the wheel and unscrew the steering tip nut to the swivel fist. Use the removable to gently press the tip finger without damaging the carving and anther.

Next, you need to unscrew the bolts of fastening the rotary fist to the rack. There are usually two of them located at the bottom. If the bolts do not unscrew, do not apply excessive force, but it is better to tap with a hammer on the end of the bolt or use heating. Take the swivel fist aside to free up the rack.

The next stage is the unwinding of the fasteners of the rack itself in the engine compartment. You need to remove the plastic decorative suspension cover, if any. Unscrew three nuts, fastening the support of the rack to the body, holding the shock absorber stem with a hexagon.

Carefully remove the entire unit (rack + spring) from the underhood space. Now you can start transferring the upper support and bearing to a new rack. Use spring screeds to squeeze them and take the load off the bearing support.

Collect the new node in reverse order, making sure that the spring has settled into its seats. It is important to correctly orient the spring and support, so as not to disturb the geometry of the suspension. Install the assembled knot on the car, twist the bolts of the mounting of the fist and tip.

Do not tighten the bolts of the rotary fist attachment until the end, until the wheel is installed on the ground and the load on the suspension returns. This is a critical point for the proper distribution of effort in threaded connections.

๐Ÿ“Š Which brand of shock absorbers did you choose?
  • KYB
  • Sachs
  • Bilstein
  • Monroe
  • Original Skoda

โ˜‘๏ธ Checklist before starting work

Done: 0 / 5
โš ๏ธ Warning: Never try to squeeze a spring without special screeds! Even with an unscrewed nut, the spring support can shoot sharply and cause serious injury.
What to do if the bolts do not come off?

If the bolts of the rotary fist attachment do not lend themselves, try heating them with a blowtorch or a building hairdryer. Heat will expand the metal and break down the rust. You can also use a key extension to increase the lever, but be careful not to break the thread. In extreme cases, you will have to drill the bolt, which requires time and skills.

After installing a new node, tighten all mounts with the recommended effort. Usually it is 100-120 Nm for the bolts of the fist mounting and 30-40 Nm for the nuts of the support. Use the dynamometer key for accuracy. Do not forget to install decorative caps and anthers in place.

If you have changed the racks on both sides, repeat the procedure for the second wheel. Make sure that all parts are set symmetrically and there are no distortions. Check the oil level in the brake system, as when dismantling the wheel, the caliper could be displaced.

After finishing the mechanical part, lower the car to the ground and make the final puff of all bolts. Pay special attention to the steering nut and the bolts of the rotary fist fastening. The car is ready for the ride, but donโ€™t forget about the crash.

๐Ÿ’ก

Proper tightening of the bolts of the rotary fist attachment only after installing the wheel on the ground is the key to the durability of threaded connections and safety.

Important nuances when working with shock absorbers

When assembling the node, pay attention to the state of the upper support. If the bearing has a backlash or knocks when scrolling, it must be replaced along with the rack. Ignoring this detail will cause creaks and knocks to appear soon after repair.

Donโ€™t forget to check the condition of the anther and the breaker. If they are worn out, they need to be replaced with new ones. The dust protects the rack mechanism from dirt and moisture, and the breaker limits the compression course, preventing metal from hitting the metal.

When installing the spring, make sure that its end is tightly adjacent to the seat on the body. The skewed spring can lead to its rapid failure or even destruction during movement. Visually check the correct installation before the final puff.

Pay special attention to the marking of springs. Nana Skoda Octavia Tour Springs of different rigidity can be installed depending on the configuration. Use springs of the same stiffness as the regular ones, so as not to violate the suspension characteristics.

If you change racks on a car with ESP, be careful when turning off the battery. This can cause the steering angle sensors to recalibrate, requiring reprogramming through a diagnostic scanner.

๐Ÿ’ก

Before compressing the spring, mark the position of the turns relative to the support with a marker. This will help to properly assemble the knot and avoid distortions during installation.

โš ๏ธ Warning: Do not use a shock screw to tighten the bolts of the rotary fist fastening! High torque can damage the thread or warp parts. Use only the manual dynamometer key.
Why can't you change the racks one at a time?

Changing the racks one by one is not recommended, as this upsets the balance of the suspension. Different rigidity and degree of wear of the racks will lead to the fact that the car will be taken aside, and the braking distance will increase. In addition, the new rack will experience increased load, which will reduce its service life.

Technical characteristics and specifics of the model

Car Skoda Octavia Tour (A4) is built on the VW Golf IV platform, which defines many technical solutions in suspension. The front suspension here is McPherson-type, making replacing the racks a relatively simple procedure compared to multi-link structures.

The characteristics of the front racks for this model can vary depending on the year of production and the type of engine. They usually differ in length, diameter of the rod and characteristics of springs. Make sure to check catalog numbers before buying to avoid mistakes.

Below is a table with approximate data for common modifications:

Parameter Meaning
Suspension type McPherson with a transverse lever
Rod diameter 10-11 mm
Compression force (H) 300-500
Force of relief (H) 1200-1600
Oil type Mineral or synthetic

It is important to consider that on versions with diesel engines, the suspension can be slightly stiffer due to the greater weight of the engine. When choosing spare parts, pay attention to the marks "for diesel" if they are in the catalogs of manufacturers.

It is also worth noting that some models use springs with color markings. The color of the coil indicates the stiffness of the spring. When replacing the spring, it is necessary to select an analogue of the same color to preserve the original characteristics of the car.

Descent and final inspection

After the front pillars have been replaced necessarily I need to visit the descent-crash stand. Any interference with the geometry of the suspension changes the angles of the wheels. Without adjustment, you risk quickly โ€œeatingโ€ rubber and getting handling problems.

The masters on the stand will check the angles of collapse, convergence and castor. Nana Octavia Tour Only convergence is regulated, and the collapse and castor are often unregulated parameters (depending on the geometry of the levers). If the collapse is not normal, there may be hidden damage to the levers or fist.

After adjusting the corners, conduct a test trip. Pay attention to how the car behaves when moving in a straight line. The steering wheel should be flat and the car should not be taken away. If the steering wheel is skewed, additional adjustment of the convergence may be required.

Check the brakes and the absence of extraneous sounds when passing irregularities. Make sure all mounts are tightened and there are no backlashes. Only after a successful test can the repair be considered complete.

If you feel the car has become less stable in cornering or there is a knock, go back to check. Maybe something was installed incorrectly or forgot to replace worn-out parts. Safety is the top priority.

Frequently asked questions and answers

How long does it take to replace the front pillar?

With experience and a special tool, the replacement of one rack takes about 1-1.5 hours. Two racks will take about 2-3 hours. For a beginner, this process can take all day.

Do I need to change the levers when replacing the racks?

Not necessarily, but it is recommended to check their condition. If the silent blocks of levers are worn out, it is better to replace them immediately so as not to return to this issue after a short time.

Can I change the rods without removing the spring?

No, the rack needs to be changed in the collection with a spring knot. If you change only the shock absorber, you will have to compress the spring and rearrange the upper support and bearing on it.

What bolts should I change for new ones?

It is recommended to replace the bolts of the rotary fist attachment to the rack, as they often have a one-time thread or can be deformed when dismantled. The mounting bolts are also better replaced.

Why is the new strut knocking?

This may be due to improper installation of the spring, worn bearing support or lack of lubrication at the contact points. Also, the reason may not be tightened to the end of the fastener.