Replacing thresholds on a ŠKODA Octavia Tour: how to do it right and save money

Thresholds ŠKODA Octavia Tour - one of the most vulnerable parts of the body, which suffers from corrosion, mechanical damage and wear. Owners of this model are often faced with the need to replace them after 5-7 years of operation, especially in regions with aggressive road reagents. But how do you understand that the thresholds require repair? And is it possible to cope with this task on your own without overpaying for services?

In this article we will analyze all the nuances: from diagnosing the condition of the thresholds to step-by-step instructions for replacing them. You will learn what tools you will need, how to choose high-quality spare parts (original vs. analogue), and how much it will cost to work in car repair shops in Moscow, St. Petersburg and the regions. And also - We will reveal secrets that will help you avoid mistakes when welding and paintingso that the new threshold will last no less than the factory one.

Signs of threshold wear: when replacement is required

The first symptoms of problems with thresholds on Octavia Tour (especially models A5 and A7) often go unnoticed. Owners write them off as cosmetic defects until corrosion reaches the load-bearing elements. Pay attention to these signals:

• 🔍 Blistering paint — bubbles under the paintwork, especially in the lower part of the threshold, indicate the beginning of rusting of the metal from the inside.
• 💧 Dampness in the cabin — if after the rain the carpets under the passengers’ feet are wet, the threshold may have rusted through.
• 🔧 Creaks and knocks — Do you hear any extraneous sounds when driving over uneven surfaces? This may be due to weakening welds or destruction of the threshold reinforcements.
• 🚗 Uneven gaps — if the door begins to close with force or play appears, check the geometry of the threshold: it could be deformed after an impact.

On Octavia Tour mileage over 150,000. frequent hidden corrosion in the places where the threshold amplifiers are attached to the side members. It cannot be detected without removing the trim, but ignoring it leads to a decrease in body rigidity and problems with the suspension. If during your inspection you find at least one of the listed signs, it’s time to plan a repair.

Original vs. analogue: which thresholds to choose for replacement

When purchasing new thresholds for Octavia Tour owners are faced with a dilemma: overpay for original parts or take risks with analogues. Let's look at the pros and cons of each option.

Part type	Benefits	Disadvantages	Average price (for 1 threshold)
Original (ŠKODA/VW)	Perfect fit without modifications Guaranteed metal quality Compatible with factory mounts	High cost, long wait (on request)	8 000–12 000 ₽
Analogue (Febi, Vaico, JP Group)	Price is 30–50% lower than the original, fast delivery	May require adjustment Thin metal (risk of corrosion) No warranty on paintwork	4 000–7 000 ₽
Reinforced thresholds (tuning)	Increased strength, corrosion protection	Difficult installation, requires modification of the body	15 000–25 000 ₽

For Octavia Tour A5 FL (2009–2013) and A7 (2013–2020) original thresholds are supplied under article numbers 6Q0 807 101/102 (left/right). If your budget is limited, pay attention to analogues from Febi (number 26110) - they have the best reviews in terms of price/quality ratio. But remember: cheap thresholds without zinc coating will last no more than 2–3 years.

⚠️ Attention: When purchasing analogues, check availability E-marking (certificate of compliance with European standards). Without it, the part may not pass inspection!

Tools and materials: what you need for work

Replacement of thresholds by Octavia Tour — this is not only welding, but also a complex of works on dismantling, surface preparation and anti-corrosion treatment. Here is a complete list of tools and consumables:

Welding machine (semiautomatic MIG/MAG)

Grinder with cutting wheel (125 mm)

Metal drill set (HSS)

Riveter and drawing pliers

Flap wheel sander

Anti-corrosion mastic (for example, Dinitrol 4941)

Epoxy primer (2K)

Paint in body color (code is indicated on the plate under the hood)

Polyurethane foam for sound insulation

Safety glasses and gloves-->

If you are planning partial replacement of the threshold (only the rusty section), you will additionally need a plasma cutter or gas torch to carefully cut out the damaged area. For a complete replacement, be sure to prepare gripping clamps — they will help you accurately set the new threshold according to the geometry of the body.

Don't skimp on consumables! For example, cheap bitumen-based mastic (Movil) will last a maximum of a year, and professional compositions like Waxoyl or Tectyl protect metal for 5+ years. Also note welding wire: for Octavia Tour optimal ER70S-6 diameter 0.8 mm.

Step-by-step instructions: how to replace thresholds with your own hands

The process of replacing thresholds with ŠKODA Octavia Tour takes 2–3 days (including painting). We will break it down into stages with photos and video links for clarity.

1. Dismantling the old threshold

Start by removing the interior trim, plastic trim and door seals. B Octavia Tour the threshold is attached to the body at 12–15 points (welding + rivets). Carefully cut it off with a grinder, leaving an allowance of 1-2 cm for future tack. Don't touch the side members! Their deformation will lead to problems with the geometry of the body.

Remove any remaining sealant and mastic using a sander. Pay attention to the threshold amplifiers - if they are rusty, they also need to be replaced (article number 6Q0 807 105).

2. Fitting a new threshold

Try the new part on the body. In 90% of cases, trimming will be required - even the original thresholds may not be the same length. Use welding tacks (spot weld every 10-15 cm) to secure the position. Check the gaps with the doors: they should be uniform (2–3 mm).

3. Welding and anti-corrosion treatment

Weld the threshold interrupted seam (length 2–3 cm, pitch 5–7 cm) to avoid thermal deformation. After welding:

1. Sand the seams with a sander.
2. Apply epoxy primer in 2 layers.
3. Cover the inside surface of the threshold with mastic (for example, Dinitrol ML).
4. Install sound insulation (vibroplast or polyurethane foam).

4. Painting and assembly

For painting, use paint with the code indicated on the plate under the hood (for example, LA7W for white Candy White). Apply 2 coats of base + 2 coats of varnish. After drying (24 hours), install the sheathing and plastic covers.

What to do if the threshold “moved” the body after welding?

If, after replacing the threshold, the doors do not close well or gaps appear, then the geometry is broken. In this case:

1. Check the body diagonals (measure the distance between the control points at the front and rear).

2. Use a bench or stretch frame to restore shape.

3. If the deformation is minimal, try adjusting the door hinges (13 mm wrench).

⚠️ Attention: Do not paint thresholds in a cold garage (below +15°C)! The paint will lie unevenly, and with further use it will begin to peel off. Use a heater or infrared lamp.

Cost of replacing thresholds in services: comparison by region

The price of the work depends on the complexity of the repair, the type of thresholds and the region. In Moscow and St. Petersburg, the service will cost 30–50% more than in the regions. Below are the current prices for 2026 (for 1 threshold):

Type of work	Moscow	Saint Petersburg	Regions (millions)	Small towns
Partial replacement (cutting out rust + welding patch)	12 000–18 000 ₽	10 000–15 000 ₽	8 000–12 000 ₽	6 000–9 000 ₽
Complete replacement (threshold + amplifier)	25 000–35 000 ₽	20 000–30 000 ₽	18 000–25 000 ₽	15 000–20 000 ₽
Painting (with preparation)	8 000–12 000 ₽	7 000–10 000 ₽	5 000–8 000 ₽	4 000–6 000 ₽

Usually included in price not included anti-corrosion treatment (another +3,000–5,000 rubles) and sound insulation (+2,000 rubles). Some services offer package discounts when replacing both thresholds at once (saving up to 20%).

Where is the cheapest place to replace thresholds?

• 🔧 Service station at the dealer — expensive, but with a guarantee (from 40,000 rubles per threshold).
• 🏗️ Body shops - the best option (20,000–30,000 rubles).
• 👨‍🔧 Private masters - cheaper (15,000–25,000 rubles), but the risk of poor quality work.
• 🔨 On your own - only if you have welding experience (costs: 5,000–10,000 rubles for materials).

Common mistakes when replacing thresholds and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that shorten the service life of new thresholds. Here are the most common mistakes and ways to prevent them:

1. Incorrect fit. If the new threshold is shorter or longer than the original, this will lead to mismatched door fastenings. Solution: Before welding, check compatibility using clamps.
2. Weak welds. An intermittent seam that is too sparse or a continuous seam without cooling will deform the metal. Solution: use 5–7 cm increments and cool the seams with compressed air.
3. Ignore amplifiers. Many people change only the outer threshold, leaving the rusty amplifier inside. Solution: always check the condition of the amplifier (part no. 6Q0 807 105).
4. Poor anti-corrosion treatment. The mastic is applied only on the outside, and the inner surface remains unprotected. Solution: Use a sprayer to treat hidden cavities.
5. Saving on primer. Paint applied without epoxy primer will begin to peel after a year. Solution: Apply primer in 2 layers with interlayer drying for 15 minutes.

Another common mistake is incorrect setting of the welding machine. For Octavia Tour optimal parameters:

• Current: 90–110 A (depending on the thickness of the metal).
• Wire feed speed: 4–6 m/min.
• Gas: mixture of argon and CO₂ (80/20).

If you've never welded body parts, practice on scrap pieces of metal. Sills are a strength element of the body, and a weak seam can lead to deformation in an accident.

FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to replace thresholds without welding?

Theoretically yes - with the help of rivets and epoxy glue (for example, 3M 08115). But such repairs are unreliable: the threshold will not withstand the loads of an accident and will quickly begin to rust. Welding remains the only correct way.

How long will the new thresholds last?

With proper installation and anti-corrosion treatment:

• Original thresholds - 8–10 years.
• High-quality analogues (Febi, Vaico) - 5–7 years.
• Cheap analogues without zinc - 2-3 years.

Service life also depends on operating conditions: in coastal regions or with frequent trips on salty roads, corrosion will appear faster.

Do I need to paint the sills from the inside?

Definitely! An unpainted interior surface will begin to rust within a year. Use anti-gravel paint (for example, Raptor) or zinc spray (Zinc Rich Primer). Apply 2-3 coats, letting dry in between.

Is it possible to drive with rusty sills?

Technically yes, but it's dangerous:

• Corrosion weakens the body, which reduces safety in an accident.
• Rust can spread to the side members (repairs will cost 100,000+ rubles).
• A car will not pass inspection if the sills are rusted through.

If your budget is limited, at least remove the rust and treat the sills rust converter (Tsinkar) + mastic.

How to check the quality of work after replacing the thresholds?

Inspect:

• 🔍 Welding seams — there should be no cracks, lack of penetration or sagging.
• 🎨 Paint — uniform color without streaks or bubbles.
• 🚪 Door gaps - must be the same (2–3 mm).
• 💦 Tightness — after washing there should be no moisture in the interior.

Drive on uneven roads: there should be no squeaks or knocks. If something is wrong, request a repair under warranty.