Replacing front arm silent blocks on a ŠKODA Octavia A7: a complete guide with photos and videos

Silent blocks of the front levers on ŠKODA Octavia A7 (including restyled versions 2017–2023) - one of the most “consumable” suspension elements. Their wear is manifested by knocking noises when driving over uneven surfaces, the car pulling to the side and uneven tire wear. Unlike rear control armswhere silent blocks last longer, the front ones require attention to 80–100 thousand km mileage - especially on models with engines 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TDI, where the load on the suspension is higher.

In this article you will find step-by-step instructions with photos, article numbers of original and analog parts, list of tools (including specialized pullers for silent blocks Octavia A7), and also typical mistakes, which even experienced masters admit. We will look at the nuances for different engines (including 1.4 TSI with the system ACT), features of working with aluminum levers (on versions with 4x4 Haldex) and give recommendations on the choice of spare parts - from budget Febi up to bonus Lemforder.

Signs of wear on silent blocks: when is it time to change them

Silent blocks of the front levers on Octavia A7 They rarely “die” suddenly - their wear progresses gradually. The main problem is that in the early stages the symptoms can be confused with malfunctions shock absorbers or ball joints. Here are the key signs that point specifically to silent blocks:

• 🔊 Knocking or clicking noises when driving over speed bumps or making sharp turns. The sound usually comes from the front and gets louder when the suspension is loaded (eg with passengers).
• 🚗 Pulling the car to the side when braking or accelerating. This is due to play in the silent blocks, which disrupts the wheel alignment.
• 🔄 Uneven tire wear - especially along the inner edge. On Octavia A7 with worn silent blocks, it often “eats” the front tires within 10–15 thousand km.
• 🛑 Vibration on the steering wheel at a speed of 80–100 km/h. It is typical for severe wear when the rubber insert of the silent block is completely destroyed.

On models with all-wheel drive Haldex (for example, Octavia A7 4x4) wear of silent blocks appears earlier due to increased loads. It is critical to monitor the condition here rear silent blocks of front levers — they fail 20–30% faster than the front ones.

⚠️ Attention: If on your Octavia A7 appeared squeaking sound when turning the steering wheel, these are NOT silent blocks! Most likely the problem is CV joint boots or stabilizer struts. Silent blocks knock when worn, but do not creak.

What silent blocks are on the Octavia A7: articles and analogues

On ŠKODA Octavia A7 (including facelift) two types of front levers are installed:

1. Steel levers - on most versions with front-wheel drive (motors 1.4 TSI, 1.6 MPI, 1.8 TSI, 2.0 TDI up to 150 hp).
2. Aluminum levers - on all-wheel drive versions (4x4 Haldex) and models with motors 2.0 TSI 220 hp and 2.0 TDI 184 hp.

Silent blocks for these levers not interchangeable! Below is a table with article numbers of original parts and proven analogues:

Lever type	Original (VAG)	Lemforder	Febi	TRW	Price (guideline), rubles
Steel (front silent block)	5Q0 407 151 A	34106 01	36106	JBU 739	1 200–1 800
Steel (rear silent block)	5Q0 407 152 A	34107 01	36107	JBU 740	1 000–1 500
Aluminum (front)	5Q0 407 151 C	34108 01	36108	—	2 500–3 500
Aluminum (rear)	5Q0 407 152 C	34109 01	36109	—	2 200–3 000

For Octavia A7 with motor 1.4 TSI (CZDA, CZEA) and the system ACT (cylinder shutdown) it is recommended to take silent blocks increased rigidity - for example, Lemforder or TRW. They better withstand vibrations from uneven engine operation.

Replacement tools: what you need

Replacing silent blocks with Octavia A7 requires specialized tool. Without it, you risk damaging the levers or new parts. Here's the full list:

• 🔧 Silent block remover - better universal with hydraulic drive (for example, KUKKO 210-2 or Hazet 896-1).
• 🔨 Set of heads and cranks (required with Torx T30 and T45 for subframe bolts).
• 🔩 Torque wrench (tightening torque of silent blocks - 80–100 Nm).
• 🛠️ Hammer and drift (for knocking out old silent blocks).
• 🔥 Gas burner or hair dryer — for heating aluminum levers (facilitates pressing).
• 🧴 Rubber lubricant (for example, LIQUI MOLY Gummi-Pflege) - a must for new silent blocks!

If you have Octavia A7 with all-wheel drive, you will additionally need:

• 🔧 Ball joint remover (for example, OTC 6522).
• 🔩 6 mm hexagon for bolts securing the lever to the subframe.

⚠️ Attention: On versions with aluminum levers it is strictly forbidden to use metal drifts when pressing out silent blocks! This leads to microcracks in the lever. Use only polyurethane or plastic nozzles.

Raise the car on a lift or place it on reliable supports|Remove the wheel and engine protection (if it interferes)|Clean the threads of the bolts with WD-40 1–2 hours before work|Prepare new silent blocks (lubricate the rubber inserts)|Check the condition of the ball joint and stabilizer strut (if worn, replace along with the silent blocks)-->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing silent blocks

The replacement process is different for steel and aluminum arms. Below are universal instructions suitable for most versions Octavia A7 (except RS and Scout, where there are nuances).

1. Dismantling the lever

The first step is to remove the lever from the car. Procedure:

1. Loosen the nut ball joint (do not unscrew completely!).
2. Unscrew the bolt securing the lever to subframe (you will need a head on 18 mm and extension cord).
3. Press the ball pin out of the steering knuckle using a puller.
4. Unscrew the bolt securing the lever to stabilizer link (if it interferes).
5. Remove the lever from the machine.

2. Pressing out old silent blocks

This is the most time-consuming stage. For steel levers:

• Clamp the lever in a vice.
• Use a puller to push out the old silent block. If it gets stuck, heat the lever with a hairdryer (no higher than 200°C!).
• Clean the seat from rust and dirt.

For aluminum levers:

• Heat the lever with a gas burner (evenly so as not to deform).
• Use special nozzles for the puller so as not to damage the aluminum.
• After pressing out, inspect the lever for cracks - if there are any, the lever must be replaced!

3. Installation of new silent blocks

Before pressing:

• Lubricate the rubber insert of the silent block silicone grease (not lithol!).
• Make sure the silent block is in place strictly according to the marks (some levers have arrows).
• Press the part with a puller, avoiding distortions.

Bolt tightening torque:

• Bolt securing the arm to the subframe: 80 Nm + 90°.
• Ball joint nut: 50 Nm + 45°.

What to do if the silent block does not press in?

If the new silent block does not fit into the seat, check:

1) Correctness of the article (there are other parts for aluminum levers!).

2) Cleanliness of the seat (even small chips can interfere).

3) Lever Temperature - Aluminum levers need to be heated to 50-60°C to facilitate pressing.

If all else fails, use copper paste (for example, LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste) for better glide.

4. Assembly and testing

After installation:

• Tighten all bolts with the car lowered (under the weight of the car, the silent blocks fall into place).
• Check the wheel alignment angles - after replacing they are necessarily are getting lost!
• Drive 10–15 km and recheck the tightness of the bolts (especially on Octavia A7 4x4).

Typical mistakes when replacing silent blocks

Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes that shorten the service life of new parts. Here are the most common:

• 🔧 Using a hammer to press in — leads to misalignment of the silent block and its rapid destruction.
• 🔥 Overheating of the aluminum lever - if heated above 200°C, the lever loses strength.
• 🧴 Lack of lubrication on a rubber insert - the silent block “creaks” and cracks after 10–15 thousand km.
• 🔩 Incorrect tightening torque — weak tightening leads to play, strong tightening leads to deformation of the silent block.
• 🚗 Ignoring wheel alignment - after replacing corners always get confused, even if everything looks normal on the outside.

Another common mistake is replacing only one silent block. On Octavia A7 they are always changed in pairs (left and right), otherwise the difference in suspension stiffness leads to the car pulling to the side.

⚠️ Attention: On versions with motor 2.0 TDI (184 hp) When replacing silent blocks, be sure to check the condition subframe supports! They often crack due to high torque and may require replacement.

How much does it cost to replace silent blocks: prices 2026

The cost of work depends on the type of levers and region. Below are indicative prices for ŠKODA Octavia A7:

Type of work	Steel levers (price, rubles)	Aluminum levers (price, rubles)
Replacing silent blocks (without removing the lever)	3 000–4 500	4 500–6 000
Replacing the lever assembly (with silent blocks)	5 000–7 000	7 000–9 000
Wheel alignment (2 axles)	1 500–2 500	1 500–2 500
Suspension diagnostics (before replacement)	500–1 000	500–1 000

If you decide to change silent blocks yourself, the budget will be:

• 🛒 Details: 2,500–6,000 rubles (depending on the brand).
• 🛠️ Tool: 3,000–10,000 rubles (if you buy a puller and heads).
• 🔧 Wheel alignment: 1,500–2,500 rubles (required!).

On all-wheel drive versions, add 1 000–1 500 ₽ for resetting adaptations Haldex.

Frequently asked questions about replacing silent blocks on Octavia A7

Is it possible to drive with worn silent blocks?

Short-term (1-2 weeks) - yes, but the risks are high:

• Accelerated wear ball joints and stabilizer struts.
• Uneven tire wear (tyres may need to be replaced after 5–10 thousand km).
• At speeds above 120 km/h possible loss of controllability due to play in the suspension.

On Octavia A7 4x4 Driving with worn silent blocks puts additional stress on Haldex coupling, which leads to its overheating.

Which silent blocks are better - original or analogues?

Depends on budget and driving style:

• Original (VAG) — the best option in terms of price/quality ratio. Serves 80–100 thousand km.
• Lemforder - the best analogue, often surpasses the original in terms of service life (up to 120 thousand km).
• Febi - a budget option (50-70 thousand km), but the quality of the tires is worse.
• TRW — good for aggressive driving, but expensive.

On Octavia A7 RS and versions with DCC (adaptive suspension) install only original or Lemforder — other brands may give play.

Is it necessary to change the lever assembly if the silent blocks are worn out?

Only in three cases:

1. Lever deformed (for example, after an accident).
2. On the aluminum lever there is cracks (often happens after unqualified replacement of silent blocks).
3. The cost of a new lever assembly is comparable to the price of silent blocks + labor (relevant for budget analogues).

On steel levers Octavia A7 silent blocks can be changed unlimited number of times, if the lever itself is not damaged.

How often to change silent blocks on Octavia A7?

Service life depends on operating conditions:

• City mode (asphalt, rare loads): 100–120 thousand km.
• Mixed mode (city + highway): 80–100 thousand km.
• Aggressive driving/bad roads: 50–70 thousand km.
• Four-wheel drive (4x4): 60–80 thousand km (due to the load on Haldex).

On Octavia A7 with motor 2.0 TDI (especially 184 hp) silent blocks wear out 20% faster due to high torque.

Is it possible to replace silent blocks without a puller?

Technically yes, but highly not recommended. Alternative methods:

• Use vices and mandrels — risk of silent block distortion ~50%.
• Heat the lever and hammer the silent block with a hammer - leads to microcracks in rubber.
• Cutting out the old silent block with a grinder can damage the lever.

If you don’t have a puller, it’s better to contact service. Savings of 1,000–1,500 rubles will result in repeated replacement after 10–20 thousand km.