Any owner Skoda Octavia Tour He knows that this car is famous for its endurance, but like any equipment, it requires timely maintenance. One of the frequent problems faced by car owners on runs over 100,000 km is the wear of rear hub bearings. If you hear a low hum that intensifies when cornering, or feel the backlash of the wheel, you can not postpone repairs.
Many prefer to contact service centers, fearing the difficulties with pressing the part. Replacement of the rear bearing with Skoda Octavia A5 (Tour) β a task quite feasible for a person with a basic set of tools and understanding of the device of the chassis. It is important to approach the process methodically, observing the moments of tightening and the sequence of operations to avoid the node from failing again in a month.
In this article we will analyze in detail all stages of work: from diagnostics to final assembly. We will pay attention to the design features of the rear suspension specifically for the Tour body, as they may differ from newer modifications. Properly done work will ensure safety and comfort on the road for many years.
Diagnostics and selection of quality spare parts
Before proceeding with dismantling, you must ensure that replacement is necessary. Drivers often confuse bearing noise with tire hum or a faulty shock absorber. For an accurate diagnosis, you need to lift the rear of the car on a lift or jacks, spin the wheel and listen to the sound. If you hear a metallic hum when you scroll, and when you rock the wheel (holding the top and bottom) you feel play, then hub requires replacement.
Part selection is a critical step. There are many brands on the market, and not all of them are suitable for long-term use in our conditions. For Skoda Octavia Tour Original parts from VAG or high-quality analogues from trusted manufacturers are ideal.
- π SKF - one of the world's best manufacturers, it is often supplied to the assembly line, but there are a lot of fakes on the market.
- βοΈ FAG - German quality, excellent geometry and durability, often comes complete with a new nut.
- π Febi Bilstein β good balance of price and quality, fully complies with original specifications.
Please note that the rear bearing on the Octavia Tour is often assembled with the hub (hub assembly). This simplifies the work since the inner ring does not need to be pressed in separately. However, if you decide to change only the bearing itself, you will need a special puller and a press, which is extremely difficult to do in a garage environment.
β οΈ Attention: Never skimp on bearings! Cheap Chinese analogues can collapse after 5-10 thousand kilometers, which will lead to wheel jamming and an accident.
It is also important to check the condition of the brake disc and caliper. If you are removing the wheel and hub, this is an ideal time to service the brake system. At the same time, check the shock absorber boot and spring for cracks.
Necessary tools and preparation for work
For a successful replacement, you will need a set of tools. Without special equipment it will be difficult to cope, especially with unscrewing stuck nuts and pressing out the old part. Prepare everything in advance so you donβt have to look for keys while working.
The list of required equipment includes:
- π Socket set (including
17,19,30and32mm). - π¨ A hammer (preferably a rubber one or with an attachment to protect the threads) and a chisel.
- π§° Puller for the retaining ring (if it is included in the design).
- π© Powerful wrench and extension for unscrewing the hub nut.
Pay special attention to the hub nut. On many models it has a very high tightening torque (about 200 Nm or more), so it may be impossible to unscrew it with a standard wrench. You will need a long lever or a professional torque wrench to back tighten it.
You will also need a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40 or Liquid Wrench) to treat the threaded connections and caliper bolts. If you plan to change the bearing alone, prepare supports for the body so that you do not have to support the car only on a jack.
β οΈ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery if you plan to disconnect the ABS sensor to avoid errors in the electronics.
βοΈ Replacement Tools
Step-by-step process for dismantling the unit
We begin work by lifting the car. Remove the rear wheel from the side where you plan to replace it. Unscrew the two brake caliper mounting bolts. They are usually located on the back of the staple and are sized 17 mm. Do not unscrew the brake hose, just hang the caliper on a wire or hook so as not to damage the rubber pipe.
Now you need to remove the brake disc. Often it sticks to the hub due to corrosion. Use a rubber hammer, gently tapping the disc from the inside or the end (not on the work surface!). If the disk does not budge, you can use a mounting spatula by inserting it into the technological holes of the disk and prying it off.
Next, unscrew the hub nut. It is located in the center of the wheel and has a large head. This may require removing the plastic plug. Unscrew the nut with great force using a long wrench. If the nut does not budge, try heating it with a hair dryer or a blowtorch (be careful not to damage the hub seal, if any remains).
After removing the nut and brake disc, we move on to attaching the hub itself. You need to remove the bolts connecting the hub to the steering knuckle. There are usually three or four of them. Sometimes bolts can become stuck, so use penetrating lubricant and heat if necessary.
What to do if the bolts are stuck?
Use a powerful impact wrench or heat the bolts with a blowtorch until they turn red, then cool quickly and try to unscrew them.
After unscrewing all the fasteners, the hub should come out of the steering knuckle. If it fits tightly, carefully push it through the wooden spacer from the inside. Do not hit the threads or bearing directly!
Correct dismantling of the brake disc and caliper without damaging the hoses is the key to successful continuation of the repair.
Replacing the bearing and pressing in a new part
Now you have the removed hub in your hands. If you are changing the assembly, simply clean the seat in the steering knuckle from dirt and rust. If you are only changing the bearing, then you need to knock it out of the hub. To do this, use a mandrel that rests against the inner ring of the old bearing.
An important point: when knocking out the bearing, make sure that the blows fall exactly on the inner ring. If you hit the outer ring, you can damage the cage and ball assembly, even if it appears intact. The old bearing is knocked out from the inside of the hub.
To install a new bearing in the hub (if you are only changing it), you will need a hydraulic press. Pressing it in manually or with a hammer is extremely difficult and dangerous for the geometry of the unit. The emphasis should only be on the outer ring when pressed into the fist, and on the inner ring when pressed into the hub.
Before installation, make sure the steering knuckle is free of burrs and rust. Wipe the seat with a clean rag. If there is a snap ring, install it in place before pressing the bearing. The new ring should fit snugly in the groove.
Before pressing in a new bearing, lightly coat the outer ring with a thin layer of grease - this will make installation easier and improve initial contact.
After installing the new assembly, check that it is flush with the surface of the knuckle. Skewing is unacceptable, as this will lead to rapid wear and jamming. Make sure the bearing rotates freely and without noise.
Hub installation and final assembly
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Insert the hub with the new bearing into the steering knuckle. If it fits in tightly, use a hammer and a spacer, hit the end of the hub, being careful not to damage the threads under the nut.
Tighten the bolts securing the hub to the knuckle. Tighten them tentatively, but not all the way, so that you can align the knot. Install the brake disc and fasten it with a screw (if provided by the design) or simply put it on.
Now the most crucial moment is tightening the hub nut. On Skoda Octavia Tour the tightening torque is usually 200 Nm plus the rotation angle (depending on the year of manufacture and type of nut). Use a torque wrench. If the nut is disposable (self-locking), it must be replaced with a new one, since the old one may not provide the required force.
Install the brake caliper and bolt it in place. The caliper bolt tightening torque is usually approx. 35-40 Nm. Check that the caliper moves freely along the guides and does not jam.
- π§ Tightening torque hub nuts are critical: overtightening will kill the bearing, under-tightening will lead to play.
- π© Wheel bolts tightened in a crosswise pattern with a torque
120Nm. - π¦ ABS sensor (if integrated) must be connected and secured.
Install the wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground and finally tighten the wheel bolts. Check the brakes: press the pedal several times until the caliper pistons are in working position.
- Torque wrench
- Impact wrench
- Regular knob
- Replacement in service
The nuances of working with the ABS sensor and electronics
On many versions Skoda Octavia Tour The wheel bearing has a magnetic code built into it to operate the ABS sensor. When replacing an assembly, this sensor is usually included in the kit. If you are only replacing the bearing, make sure it has a magnetic ring.
If your ABS light on your dashboard burns out after replacing it, don't panic right away. This often happens because the sensor does not immediately recognize the new magnetic code or because the connector contacts are oxidized. Go through the sensor connector, clean the contacts and check the integrity of the wiring.
Sometimes it is necessary to reset errors through a diagnostic scanner. If the light is constantly on, check the gap between the sensor and the hub. It should be minimal, but without friction. If the sensor is damaged, it will have to be replaced separately.
Also pay attention to the anthers. If the shock absorber or ball joint boot is torn, it is worth replacing them when replacing the hub, since access to them is already open. This will extend the life of the suspension.
β οΈ Attention: If the ABS sensor does not work after replacement, check whether you twisted the wire during assembly, or damaged it when knocking out the old bearing.
Technical specifications and tightening torque table
For accurate work, it is necessary to know the exact tightening torques of fasteners. Deviation from the norm can lead to serious consequences. Below is a table with recommended values for Skoda Octavia Tour.
| Fastening element | Thread size | Tightening torque (Nm) | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hub nut | M24 | 200 + additional turn | Replace with a new one |
| Caliper mounting bolts | M12 | 35 - 40 | Lubricate the thread |
| Bolts securing the hub to the knuckle | M12 | 50 + 90Β° | Pull with a dynamometer |
| Wheel bolts | M14 | 120 | Crosswise |
| Brake disc (screw) | M5 | 4 - 5 | For fixation only |
Please note that these values may vary slightly depending on the vehicle's year and suspension type. Always check the technical documentation for your specific vehicle.
After completing the work, it is recommended to drive a test section at different speeds. Listen to sounds: there should be no hum, creaking or knocking. If the sound persists, the bearing may have been installed incorrectly or there may be a problem with other suspension components.
Maintaining precise tightening torques and using new locknuts guarantees long lasting repairs.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Do I need to replace the bearing on both sides at once?
If the car has a high mileage and there is noise only on one side, it is not necessary to change both sides. However, if the bearing is worn out on one side, then on the other it is most likely also close to the end. Many craftsmen recommend replacing them in pairs to save time on repeated dismantling.
Can I drive with a faulty bearing?
Strongly not recommended. Play in the hub can lead to wheel seizure, brake disc destruction, or even the wheel coming off while driving. This is a direct threat to life.
How do you know if the hub nut is tightened correctly?
Use a torque wrench. If it is not there, focus on the force and condition of the nut: it must be tightened with maximum force and, if provided, tightened to the specified angle. Visually check that the nut is not turning.
What to do if the hub nut does not unscrew?
Use a powerful wrench, heat the nut with a blowtorch and tap it on all sides. As a last resort, you can use a gas wrench, but be careful not to damage the threads.
How long does it take to replace one bearing?
An experienced master spends about 1-1.5 hours on one side. A beginner may need 2-3 hours, especially if the parts are stuck and require additional processing.