Rear hub on ล koda Yeti - a critical component on which not only ride comfort, but also safety depends. Bearing wear or damage to the hub is manifested by a characteristic hum at speed, vibration in the cabin, or even wheel play. If you notice these symptoms, you cannot delay repairs: destruction of the bearing can lead to the wheel jamming while driving.

In this article we will look at how to replace the rear hub with Yeti (including versions with all-wheel drive 4x4 and motors 1.6 MPI, 1.8 TSI, 2.0 TDI). You will learn what tools you will need, how to properly remove and install the hub, and what to look for when choosing a spare part. We will separately consider the nuances for cars with DSG and a manual transmission.

Signs of a bad rear hub: when is it time to replace it?

The first and most obvious symptom is hum or howl from the rear wheel, which increases during acceleration. At an early stage the noise may only appear at speeds above 60โ€“80 km/h, but as it wears out it becomes permanent. Other warning signs:

  • ๐Ÿ”ง Vibration on the steering wheel or in the rear seat area, especially when turning.
  • ๐Ÿš— Wheel play, which can be felt if you swing it with your hands in a vertical plane (with the wheel hanging out).
  • ๐Ÿ”ฅ Hub overheating after a trip - if you touch the disc, it will be hot even 10-15 minutes after stopping.
  • ๐Ÿ›‘ Creaks or clicks when braking (may indicate destruction of the bearing cage).

On ล koda Yeti with all-wheel drive (Haldex) hub wear may also appear uneven tire wear or twitching when starting. This is due to the fact that play in the hub disrupts the geometry of the suspension, and the system Haldex tries to compensate for slippage.

โš ๏ธ Attention: If when driving at a speed higher 100 km/h a sharp metallic grinding sound appears - this is a sign complete destruction of the bearing. Operating the car in this condition is dangerous: the wheel may jam!

To diagnose, jack up the car and check the wheel play. If it exceeds 0.5 mm, the hub must be replaced immediately. Also inspect the brake disc: if it has scratches from a damaged bearing, the disc will also need to be replaced.

๐Ÿ“Š What engine does your ล koda Yeti have?
  • 1.6 MPI
  • 1.8 TSI
  • 2.0 TDI
  • 2.0 TSI
  • Other

Which hub to choose: original vs analogues

Original hubs for Yeti are produced under catalog numbers 5Q0 598 625 (right) and 5Q0 598 626 (left). Their average price is 8 000โ€“12 000 โ‚ฝ per piece. However, many owners choose analogues from trusted brands, which are cheaper but not inferior in quality.

Brand Article (right/left) Price, rubles Features
SKF VKBA 3606 / VKBA 3607 5 500โ€“7 000 High quality bearings, often installed on the conveyor VW Group.
FEBI 28920 / 28921 4 800โ€“6 200 Good price/quality ratio, suitable for Yeti with Haldex.
TRW JHB1044 6 000โ€“7 500 Reinforced bearings, recommended for active driving.
Optimal O-50102N 3 500โ€“4 500 Budget option, but the resource is lower than the original.

When choosing a hub, pay attention to complete set: Some kits are missing the retaining ring or mounting bolts. Also check if the part is suitable for your modification Yeti - hubs for versions with DSG and manual transmission may differ in seating dimensions.

โš ๏ธ Attention: On ล koda Yeti with all-wheel drive (4x4) the hub is integrated with ABS sensor. If you purchase an aftermarket part, make sure the sensor connector is compatible with your system!

Before purchasing, inspect the old hub: if it shows signs of corrosion or damage to the bearing seat, it may need to be replaced and hub assembly (article 5Q0 501 125).

๐Ÿ’ก

When purchasing a hub, check for a warranty card - most manufacturers have a 1-2 year warranty on bearing units.

Tools and preparation for replacement

To replace the rear hub with Yeti you will need:

  • ๐Ÿ”ง Jack and supports (or lift).
  • ๐Ÿ”จ Socket heads on 17 mm, 19 mm and 30 mm (for the hub nut).
  • ๐Ÿ”ฉ Impact wrench or a long lever - the hub nut often gets stuck.
  • ๐Ÿ› ๏ธ Circlip remover and press (or hub puller).
  • ๐Ÿงฒ Hammer and copper drift (for careful removal of the hub).
  • ๐Ÿ”ง Torque wrench (to tighten the hub nut to a torque 180โ€“200 Nm).

Also prepare:

  • ๐Ÿงด Penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or Liqui Moly) for rusty bolts.
  • ๐Ÿงค Gloves and safety glasses โ€” when working with the hub, rust fragments often fly.
  • ๐Ÿ“ธ Smartphone for photographing the disassembly stages (useful during assembly).

Before starting work:

  1. Place the machine on a level surface and fix the front wheels stops.
  2. Loosen the hub nut before the car is lifted - itโ€™s easier to tear it out of place.
  3. Remove the wheel and disconnect the ABS sensor (if it is integrated into the hub).

Loosen the hub nut with the car stationary|Remove the wheel and brake disc|Disconnect the ABS sensor (if equipped)|Apply penetrating lubricant to the bolts|Prepare a puller or press-->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the rear hub

The replacement process is the same for most modifications ล koda Yeti, but there are nuances for versions with Haldex and DSG. Let's consider a universal algorithm:

1. Removing the brake disc and caliper

After removing the wheel:

  1. Unscrew the two mounting bolts brake caliper (head on 17 mm) and hang it on a wire so as not to damage the hose.
  2. Remove the brake disc. If it sticks, gently tap it with a hammer through a wooden spacer.

2. Dismantling the hub

Now you need to unscrew hub nut (head on 30 mm). It is tightened with a large torque, therefore:

  • Use extension for key or an impact wrench.
  • If the nut does not budge, heat it with a hair dryer (but do not overheat the bearing!).

After removing the nut:

  1. Press out the hub using puller or carefully knock it down with a hammer through a copper drift.
  2. If the hub fits tightly, you can use press (in garage conditions, a vice with adapters is suitable).
What to do if the hub cannot be removed?

If the hub is stuck to the axle shaft, try the following methods:

1. Treat the seat with penetrating lubricant and let sit for 10โ€“15 minutes.

2. Use a three-jaw puller to tighten the bolts evenly.

3. As a last resort, carefully heat the hub with a gas torch (do not point the flame at the bearing!).

3. Installing a new hub

Before installing a new hub:

  • Clear seat on the axle shaft from rust and dirt.
  • Check condition of the retaining ring - if it is deformed, replace it.
  • Apply a thin layer copper grease onto the seating surface (but not onto the bearing!).

Installation:

  1. Carefully place the hub onto the axle shaft and press it in until it stops.
  2. Tighten the hub nut torque wrench with the moment 180โ€“200 Nm.
  3. Install the brake disc and caliper, connect the ABS sensor (if removed).
๐Ÿ’ก

The hub nut must be tightened strictly to the specified torque! Under-tightening will lead to play, and over-tightening will lead to destruction of the bearing.

4. Features for versions with Haldex

On all-wheel drive Yeti after replacing the hub it may be necessary retraining the Haldex block. To do this:

  1. Connect the diagnostic scanner (VCDS, OBDeleven).
  2. Go to block 22 โ€” All-Wheel Drive.
  3. Select function Basic Settings and run the procedure G85 Sensor Calibration.

If this is not done, the system may display an error P1850 (malfunction of the rear axle angle sensor).

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when replacing a hub. Here are the most common:

  • ๐Ÿ”ง Using an Impact Tool to Tighten a Nut - this leads to microcracks in the bearing.
  • ๐Ÿš— Forgetting to check the play after installation - be sure to shake the wheel after assembly!
  • ๐Ÿ”ฅ Not cleaning the seat from rust, which is why the new hub quickly fails.
  • ๐Ÿ›‘ Ignores ABS errors after replacement - this may indicate damage to the sensor.

Another typical problem is retightening caliper bolts. Their tightening torque is only 30โ€“35 Nm, and not โ€œfrom the heart.โ€ If you overtighten, you can break the threads in the hub.

โš ๏ธ Attention: On Yeti with DSG after replacing the hub it may be necessary clutch adaptation! This is due to the fact that play in the suspension affects the operation of the mechatronics. Adapt through VCDS โ†’ 02 โ€” Transmission โ†’ Basic Settings โ†’ Group 060.

If after replacement there is new hum, check:

  • Correct installation of the hub (is it skewed).
  • Condition wheel bearing - perhaps there was a defect.
  • Puff hub nuts โ€” she could weaken.

Cost of work in the service vs independent replacement

Rear hub replacement cost ล koda Yeti in service depends on the region and complexity of the work:

Service type Cost of work, rubles Lead Time
Official dealer 6 000โ€“9 000 2โ€“3 hours
Unofficial service 3 500โ€“5 000 1.5โ€“2 hours
Garage craftsmen 2 000โ€“3 500 1โ€“2 hours
On your own 0 (spare parts only) 3โ€“5 hours

The savings when replacing yourself are obvious, but keep in mind:

  • ๐Ÿ”ง Will be required special tool (puller, torque wrench).
  • ๐Ÿš— No experience risk damage the axle shaft or a new bearing.
  • ๐Ÿ”ฅ On Yeti with Haldex may be needed diagnostics after replacement.

If you have never done such work, it is better to entrust the replacement to professionals. However, if you have the tools and care DIY replacement is quite possible.

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to drive with a humming hub?

Short term - yes, but not worth the risk. Bearing failure can cause the wheel to seize at speed. At the first sign of a hum (especially if it gets worse when turning) hub needs to be replaced within 1-2 weeks.

Do I need to replace the hub assembly or just the bearing?

On ล koda Yeti The hub and bearing are a non-separable unit. Attempts to press out the old bearing and press in a new one lead to loss of seat geometry and rapid failure of the part. Therefore, only the hub assembly is replaced.

How to check hub play without a lift?

Jack up the car on the side of the problem wheel, grab it at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and rock it in a vertical plane. If the backlash exceeds 0.5 mm, the hub requires replacement. Also note extraneous sounds when the wheel rotates.

What happens if you don't adapt the Haldex after replacing the hub?

The all-wheel drive system may not work correctly: jerking when starting, uneven torque distribution or Front wheel drive always on. In the long term this leads to accelerated wear of the Haldex coupling.

Which hubs are better - SKF or FEBI?

SKF are considered more reliable (resource up to 150,000 km), but also cost more. FEBI - a good budget option (resource 100,000โ€“120,000 km). If you drive aggressively or often off-road, it is better to pay more for SKF or TRW.