The braking system is the foundation of any vehicle's safety, and Skoda Octavia A7 is no exception. Condition brake pads directly affect the effectiveness of stopping and wear of other nodes, such as brake discs and calipers. Many owners face the need to replace because of the characteristic squeak, vibration or message on the dashboard about low wear.

Rear pad replacement procedure Skoda Octavia A7 It has its own specific features that distinguish it from the front wheels or other models of the VAG group. The key here is the mechanism of compression of the caliper piston, which is not just pressed, but requires simultaneous rotation. Ignoring this nuance will damage the thread mechanism, which will result in expensive repair of the entire caliper.

In this article, we will look at every step of the work, from tool preparation to the final system check. We will pay special attention to the choice original spare parts and their high-quality analogues, and also discuss the nuances of resetting the wear meter, so that your car again pleases with smoothness and reliability of braking.

Tools and workplace preparation

Before driving the car into a hole or lift, you need to make sure that you have everything you need at hand. tool set. For the rear axle. Skoda Octavia A7 A standard jack and wrench will not be enough. You will need a special tool to compress the piston, as it has a screw structure.

The list of required equipment includes:

  • πŸ”§ Set of heads and rattles (dimensions 13, 17, 30 mm)
  • πŸ”¨ A hammer and a chisel (for beating off sour guides)
  • 🧴 Brake cleaner and lubricant for guides
  • πŸ”© Special key-cracker for rotation of the piston caliper

If you don’t have a professional key to compress the piston, it can be replaced with a set of universal adapters or use pliers, but this is risky for plastic elements.

Prepare the workplace by ensuring reliable fixation of the car. Wheelrests It is necessary, as the work with the brake system requires complete stability. If you plan to change the pads immediately on both sides, do not forget to remove the wheels and set the car on the β€œhandle”, but after installing the stands, it is better to lower the handbrake so that the mechanism does not jam.

⚠️ Attention! Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery's negative terminal if you plan to drop errors through a diagnostic scanner or perform complex manipulations with the caliper electronics.

Removing the wheel and caliper

After the car is securely fixed and the wheels are removed, proceed to a visual inspection of the brake mechanism. Pay attention to the state of affairs. brake disc: the presence of deep furrows, chips or critical production may require replacement of the disc along with the pads. Check it out, too. caliper guides for contamination or lack of lubrication.

To remove the caliper, you need to twist two guide bolts that are on the back of the caliper. They are usually 13 mm in size under the head. If the bolts are boiling, use penetrating lubricant and give it time to act. Do not try to tear them down with great effort, as you can damage the thread in the caliper body.

Carefully remove the caliper from the bracket and hang it on the wire to the suspension spring. Never leave the caliper hanging on the brake hose.This can damage the internal structure of the rubber and cause rupture during further operation. The freed bracket is also desirable to remove for ease of working with disks.

πŸ“Š What tool do you use to compress the piston?
  • Special VAG key
  • Universal set
  • Pliers
  • jack-up

Features of compression of the piston of the rear caliper

This is the most critical stage of work, where mistakes are most often made. Unlike the front calipers, the rear piston Skoda Octavia A7 It is equipped with a built-in mechanism for hand brakes. Therefore, it can not simply be pressed with a jack or mount. The piston must be rotated. clockwise, simultaneously pressing it inside.

If you try to push the piston without rotation, you are likely to break the plastic clip of the mechanism or break the thread. This will cause the handbrake mechanism to stop working and the caliper will require a complete replacement or complex repair. Use a special adapter that clings to the grooves on the end of the piston.

The compression process can require considerable effort if the mechanism has not been maintained for a long time. Turn the piston smoothly, avoiding distortions. Once the piston completely goes inside the body, you can install new pads. Make sure the anther of the piston does not twist or break during operation.

β˜‘οΈ Preparation for piston compression

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What to do if the piston is not screwed in?If the piston is not rotating, do not use excessive force. Try gently swaying it left-right as you rotate to release the jammed teeth of the mechanism. If this doesn’t help, it’s possible the mechanism inside the caliper has corroded and needs replacement or repair.

⚠️ Attention! Before screwing the piston, be sure to check the level of brake fluid in the tank. When the piston is compressed, the liquid will return to the tank, and if it is full, it can result in a paint coating of the body, which will damage it.

Installation of new pads and bracket

Before installing new brake pads Be sure to clean the seats on the bracket from rust and dirt. Use a metal brush and brake cleaner. New pads should go into the guide bracket freely, without jamming, but also without excessive backlash. If the bracket is severely worn or deformed, it must be replaced.

Complete with new pads are often new spring-loaded fixtures and metal brackets. Their installation is mandatory, as they ensure the correct position of the pad and prevent extraneous noise. Apply a thin layer of a special high-temperature caliper lubricants on the back side of the pads and the place of contact with the bracket, avoiding lubrication on the friction lining.

Set the bracket on the hub and tighten the mount bolts with the recommended moment. Then put the caliper on the new pads, making sure that the guides have fallen into place. Twirl the caliper guide bolts, pre-lubricating them with silicone lubrication. Do not pull the bolts so as not to damage the thread in the aluminum case.