Braking system of the legendary Czech hatchback Škoda Felicia deserves special attention, especially when it comes to the rear axle. Unlike modern cars, which often use rear disc brakes, this model is equipped with classic drum mechanisms, which imposes its own characteristics on the maintenance process.
Many car owners mistakenly believe that drum brakes require replacement less often than disc brakes. In practice wear brake pads may be uneven, and springs and cylinders often lose elasticity before the friction lining itself. Ignoring squeaks or reduced braking performance can lead to expensive drum repairs or even an accident.
In this article we will look in detail at how to replace it yourself. rear brake pads on Škoda Felicia. We will look at the necessary tools, the nuances of disassembling jammed mechanisms, and critical assembly points that beginners often miss.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
Before you begin, make sure you have a level, hard surface. Working with the braking system requires vehicle stability, so using a conventional jack without a safety stand is strictly unacceptable. You'll need a set of wrenches, including a ratchet and 8, 10, 13 and 17mm sockets, as well as a special tool to compress the rear caliper pistons (if they were discs) or, in the case of drums, a spring compressor.
The list of required supplies includes new brake pads complete with springs and clamps. It's also a good idea to have brake cleaner and slide and contact point lube on hand. Don't forget to use WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant as the drum bolts are Škoda Felicia may become stuck over years of use.
It is important to prepare a container in advance to collect old brake dust, which can be toxic. Wear gloves and safety glasses, as particles of asbestos or modern friction materials easily enter the respiratory tract.
- 🛠️ Socket set and ratchet wrench (sizes 8, 10, 13, 17 mm)
- 🔧 Special drum puller or mounting blade
- 🧴 Brake Cleaner and High Temperature Lubricant
- 🛡️ Personal protective equipment (gloves, goggles, respirator)
⚠️ Attention: Never use brake fluid from an open canister that has been sitting for a long time. Moisture trapped in the fluid lowers the boiling point and can lead to brake failure.
Brake drum removal and diagnostics
The first step is to remove the wheel. After removing the rubber tire, you will see the brake drum. On Škoda Felicia it is often secured with two 8mm bolts located inside the wheel rim, or simply held in place by an axle nut and friction. If the drum is tight, try gently tapping it with a hammer through a piece of wood around its circumference.
If the drum cannot be removed by hand, it may have “separated” from the brake pads due to wear. In this case, you will need to access the adjustment mechanism through a hatch at the rear of the drum. You will need to turn the adjusting worm with a screwdriver to spread the shoes and free the drum.
Sometimes there is a situation where the drum is stuck to the hub due to corrosion. Do not use excessive force to avoid bending the disc. It is best to use a puller or carefully warm up the contact area (in compliance with fire safety measures), but more often the method of periodic blows to the stiffeners helps.
- 🔍 Inspect the inside of the drum for deep grooves and cracks.
- 🔧 Check the condition of the hub bearing for play during rotation
- 🚫 It is forbidden to use a hammer on the working surface of the drum
- Complete set of keys
- Basic set only
- Pliers and hammer
- There's nothing
After removing the drum you will have full access to the mechanism. Clean it from dust and dirt with a brush. Please note the condition brake cylinders. If traces of brake fluid leaks are visible, replacing the pads is pointless without repairing or replacing the cylinder itself.
Removing old pads and springs
The process of disassembling the mechanism requires care, since the springs are under strong tension. Use special hooks or pliers to remove the upper and lower springs. Start with the top spring, which holds the pads together. Be prepared for the spring to spring back quickly if you hold it incorrectly.
Remove the pad retainers (cotter pins or spring clips) that hold the pads to the brake shield. On Škoda Felicia uses spring clips that need to be bent and the rod pulled out. After this, the pads will be freed from the hub, and they can be removed by disconnecting them from the handbrake lever.
Carefully inspect the handbrake mechanism. The cable may be stretched or jammed. If you don't plan on adjusting it now, just remember how it attaches to the shoe arm. Often the problem with the handbrake lies precisely in the soured cable, and not in the pads themselves.
Remove the bottom spacer bar. It is held in place by a spring clip or nut. Remove it carefully so as not to damage the thread. Place all removed parts in the order they were removed so as not to get confused in the location of the springs during assembly.
☑️ Dismantling the old mechanism
⚠️ Caution: Do not lower the brake cylinder pistons completely into the housing until new pads are installed. This can cause dirt to get into the mechanism and jam.
Selection of spare parts and preparation of new parts
When choosing new brake pads for Škoda Felicia It is worth focusing on trusted manufacturers. Original spare parts from Skoda, as well as high-quality analogues from brands like Brembo, TRW or Pagid, provide stable braking. Cheap Chinese kits often have an uneven layer of friction material and can produce a lot of squeaking.
It is important to check that the kit is complete. It should include not only the pads themselves, but also a full set of springs, clamps and sometimes even a spacer bar. The use of old springs is unacceptable, since they have already lost their elasticity and will not be able to ensure a tight fit of the pads to the drum.
Before installation, treat the contact pads on the brake shield and handbrake levers with high-temperature grease. This will prevent the mechanism from jamming and simplify further maintenance. Never apply lubricant to the working surface of the friction linings.
- ✅ Choose kits that include all springs and retainers
- 🚫 Avoid buying pads without manufacturer's markings
- 🔧 Lubricate the contact points, but not the work surface.
Why is it important to change springs along with pads?
Old springs lose their elasticity over time. If you put new pads on old springs, the pads will not fit tightly to the drum, which will lead to increased brake pedal travel and reduced braking efficiency.
Installing new pads and assembling the mechanism
The assembly is carried out in the reverse disassembly order. First, set a bar and fix it. Then put the pads on the hub, making sure that the hand brake lever is properly hooked to the cable. This is the most important point, since improper engagement will lead to uneven wear.
Set the pads' locks and press them until you click. Make sure the pads don't hang around, but they don't jam either. Then, pull the lower and upper springs. To do this, it is convenient to use a special hook or two screwdrivers to stretch the spring and hook it by the hook on the pad.
Check the freedom of movement. The pads shall be easily moved relative to the shield and shall not touch the drum until the pedal is applied. If there is a grazing, you may have incorrectly installed the spacer bar or the springs are stretched unevenly.
Before installing the drum, make sure that the brake cylinder pistons are in the working position and do not protrude too much. If they bulge, gently squeeze them in with a flat screwdriver, resting on the cylinder body.
Proper installation of locks and springs is a guarantee that the pads will not spontaneously move away from the drum, which will prevent their rapid wear and noise when moving.
Handbrake adjustment and final check
After the drum and wheel are installed, the parking brake must be adjusted. To do this, lift the car with a jack and check how the pads work when the cable is stretched. The lever of the hand brake inside the cabin should be fixed at 3-5 clicks. If it goes lower, a cable lift is needed.
Adjustment is made under the car, where the adjustment nut on the cable is located. Weaken the counternut and rotate the adjustment nut, achieving the desired tension. After setting up, tighten the counternut and check if the rear wheel jams when the handbrake is lowered.
Before starting the movement, be sure to press the brake pedal several times so that the cylinder pistons take their working position and the pads press against the drum. Only then can you get on the road.
Take a test trip on a safe stretch of road. Make sure the car does not take you away when braking and there are no extraneous noises. If you hear a grinding sound, stop immediately and check the correct assembly.
| Parameter | Normal value | Deviation |
|---|---|---|
| Handbrake lever travel | 3-5 clicks | Less than 3 or more than 7 |
| Friction lining thickness | More than 2 mm | Less than 2 mm (replacement required) |
| Wheel bearing play | Missing | Feels when the wheel is swaying |
| Braking distance (from 60 km/h) | Up to 20 meters. | More than 25 meters. |
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the pad brake pedal becomes "cotton" and fails, immediately check the system for air and tightness of the brake cylinders.
Before the first trip after replacing the pads, conduct several smooth braking at low speed. This will help to rub the friction material to the surface of the drum and ensure maximum braking efficiency from the first kilometers.
Common mistakes and their consequences
One of the most common mistakes is neglecting to clean the brake shield. Dirt and rust can prevent the pads from moving, which will lead to constant braking of the wheel. This causes overheating of the drum, deformation of parts and increased fuel consumption.
Another mistake is the wrong installation of the spacer bar. If the bar is curved, the pads will rub against the drum with only one part, which will lead to uneven wear and the appearance of vibrations during braking. Always check the symmetry of the installation.
Sometimes the masters forget to lubricate the contact points of the handbrake cable. As a result, the mechanism jams, and the pads do not open completely even with the lever lowered. This leads to overheating of the rear wheels and possible fire.
- ❌ Ignoring cleaning of shield from rust and dirt
- ❌ Installation of pads without checking the condition of the handbarrow cable
- ❌ Forgetting about checking the pedal before the trip
FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions
How often should I change the rear brake pads to the ŠKODA Felicia?
The service life of the rear drum pads depends on the driving style and operating conditions. On average, they walk from 60,000 to 100,000 km. However, if there are creaks or decreases in the hand brake efficiency, the check should be carried out immediately.
Can you change the pads on one side only?
No, it is necessary to change brake pads on both rear wheels at the same time. Replacing only one side will lead to uneven braking, which can cause the car to skid during sharp braking.
What to do if the drum cannot be removed?
If the drum is not removed manually, try unscrewing the adjusting screw through the hatch to push the pads apart. If this doesn't help, use a reeling removable or gently tap it with a hammer. Do not use excessive force so as not to damage the hub.
Should I change the brake cylinder when replacing the pads?
If the cylinder shows traces of leakage of the liquid, backlash of the piston or it does not move freely, it must be replaced or repaired. In other cases, it is enough to clean it and lubricate the guides.
How to check the effectiveness of the hand brake after replacement?
Lift the car on the jack, tighten the handbrake. The wheel should lock. Lower the handbrake - the wheel should rotate freely without touching the pads. In the cabin, the lever should be fixed on 3-5 clicks.