Replacing rear bones on a Škoda Octavia A5: a detailed guide with photos and tips

Rear lever silent blocks (popularly known as “bones”) on Škoda Octavia A5 is one of those parts that wears out over time, but many owners don't pay attention to it until obvious symptoms appear. Knocks in the rear suspension, uneven tire wear, or poor handling on rough roads can all signal the need for replacement. Unlike the front suspension, the rear arms with silent blocks on Octavia A5 last longer (on average) 100–150 thousand km, but much depends on operating conditions), however, replacing them requires care and knowledge of key nuances.

In this article we will look at how to determine the wear of the “bones”, what tools and spare parts will be needed for replacement, and also describe in detail the process of dismantling and installing new silent blocks. We will place special emphasis on typical mistakes that even experienced car owners make, and we will give recommendations on choosing analogues of original parts. If you plan to carry out the work yourself, get ready for the fact that it will be difficult to do without a puller and a press, and in some cases you will need a welding machine.

Signs of wear on the rear silent blocks on the Octavia A5

The first and most obvious symptom is knocking noise in rear suspension when driving over bumps or making sudden maneuvers. However, this symptom may also indicate other problems (for example, wear of the shock absorbers or stabilizer link). To accurately diagnose silent block faults, pay attention to the following points:

• 🔧 Play in the levers. Jack up the rear of the car and try to swing the lever by hand. If there is noticeable play in the place where the silent block is attached, the part must be replaced.
• 🚗 Uneven rear tire wear. Worn “bones” change the angles of the wheels, which leads to “eating” the inner or outer part of the tread.
• 🛣️ Deterioration in directional stability. The car begins to “float” along the road, especially at high speed, and when braking it can pull to the side.
• 🔊 Creaks or grinding noises when the suspension is operating. This is a sign that the rubber part of the silent block has collapsed and the metal bushings are rubbing against each other.

On Octavia A5 (including restyled versions) the rear arms are attached to the subframe through two silent blocks: front and rear. Most often wears out front silent block, since it takes on a large load during acceleration and braking. To make sure that replacement is necessary, inspect the rubber part of the parts: if there are cracks, tears, or the rubber insert is “squeezed out,” the silent block must be replaced.

⚠️ Attention: On cars with engines 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TSI (especially in a liftback body) the rear suspension experiences increased loads due to weight distribution. In such cases, silent blocks may wear out by 80–90 thousand km.

Which silent blocks to choose: original vs analogues

Original silent blocks for Škoda Octavia A5 supplies VW Group under the articles:

• 1Z0 501 307 — front silent block of the rear lever (left/right);
• 1Z0 501 308 — rear silent block of the rear lever (left/right).

The cost of original parts ranges from 1,500 to 2,500 rubles per piece, depending on the supplier. However, many car owners prefer analogues, which are often not inferior in quality, but are cheaper.

Brand	Article	Price (per piece), rub.	Features
Lemforder	31307 01 / 31308 01	1 200–1 600	High quality rubber, often recommended by craftsmen
Febi	23307 / 23308	900–1 300	Budget option, but the resource is lower than the original
TRW	JBU1001 / JBU1002	1 400–1 800	Good wear resistance, suitable for aggressive riding
SASIC	2005013 / 2005014	700–1 000	Economy segment, suitable for quiet use

When choosing analogues, pay attention to rubber insert material. Cheap silent blocks are often made of too soft rubber, which quickly “flows” under load. The best option is polyurethane inserts (for example, from Powerflex), but they are more expensive and can increase suspension stiffness.

Necessary tools and preparation for replacement

Replacing rear silent blocks with Octavia A5 - a task of average complexity, but it won’t be possible without a special tool. Here is the minimum set you will need:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to secure the car on stands!);
• 🔨 Silent block remover (you can rent or make a homemade one from old parts);
• 🔩 Socket wrenches by 16, 18 and 21 mm (for lever and subframe bolts);
• 🔥 Gas burner or hair dryer (for heating the silent block during pressing);
• 🛠️ Press or vise (for pressing out old and installing new parts);
• 🧴 WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant (bolts often stick).

Before starting work, be sure to:

1. Place the car on a flat surface and secure the front wheels with chocks.
2. Loosen the rear wheel mounting bolts (but do not remove it completely before jacking it up!).
3. If you plan to change silent blocks on both sides, prepare both levers in advance.

Secure the car with stops|Loosen the wheel bolts|Jack up the rear and install stands|Treat the bolts with WD-40 10–15 minutes before unscrewing|Prepare a new silent block and lubricant (for example, Litol-24)-->

⚠️ Attention: On Octavia A5 with all-wheel drive (4Motion) the rear suspension has additional fastening elements. Before replacing silent blocks, be sure to disconnect the drive shaft from the hub, otherwise the lever will not be able to be removed!

Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear silent blocks

The replacement process can be divided into several stages: dismantling the lever, pressing out the old silent blocks, installing new ones and reassembling. Let's look at each step in detail.

1. Removing the rear arm

Jack up the car and remove the rear wheel. Then:

1. Unscrew the bolt securing the lever to the subframe (usually M12 with 18 mm head).
2. Disconnect the lever from the hub by unscrewing the ball joint bolt (21 mm socket).
3. Carefully lower the lever down - it should come out of the grooves without effort.

If the bolts do not budge, use a penetrating lubricant and give it time to work (10-15 minutes). As a last resort, you can gently heat the bolt with a gas torch, but do not overdo it - there are plastic suspension elements nearby.

2. Pressing out old silent blocks

This is the most time-consuming stage. For pressing you can use:

• 🛠️ Special puller (for example, KUKKO 210-2);
• 🔨 Homemade device from a bolt, nut and thick washers;
• 🔥 Welding machine (if the silent block has become “stuck” and cannot be subjected to mechanical influence).

Algorithm of actions:

1. Clamp the lever in a vice.
2. Using a puller or a homemade device, squeeze out the old silent block. If it does not give in, heat the metal sleeve with a torch (the rubber will burn out, but this is not critical).
3. Clean the seat from rust and rubber residues.

3. Installation of new silent blocks

New parts are pressed in in reverse order. Important:

• 🔹 Lubricate the seat soap solution or special lubricant (for example, Liqui Moly Kupfer-Spray);
• 🔹 Observe installation direction — silent blocks usually have marks or protrusions that must coincide with the grooves on the lever;
• 🔹 Press in without distortion, otherwise the part will quickly fail.

After installation, check that the silent block is seated all the way and does not play. If in doubt, it is better to repress.

4. Assembly and testing

Reinstall the lever and tighten all bolts firmly. 80–100 Nm (See the repair manual for exact values). After assembly:

• 🔧 Bleed up the suspension by pressing the rear of the car several times;
• 🚗 Carry out a test drive on a smooth road and on uneven roads, paying attention to extraneous sounds;
• 🔍 After 100–200 km, check the tightness of the bolts - they may become loose.

Typical replacement mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes that lead to rapid failure of silent blocks or damage to other suspension elements. Here are the most common:

• 🔧 Insufficient bolt tightening. If you do not tighten the lever mounting bolts, the silent block will play and the rubber will quickly collapse. Always use a torque wrench!
• 🔥 Overheating of the lever when pressing out. Excessive heat can warp the metal or damage the powder coating. Heat only the bushing of the silent block, and not the entire lever.
• 🛠️ Using a hammer to press in. Hitting with a hammer may damage the rubber insert. Always use a press or puller.
• 🚗 Ignoring wheel alignment. After replacing the silent blocks, the wheel alignment angles change, so be sure to visit the wheel alignment stand.

Another common mistake is purchasing silent blocks without taking into account the installation side. On Octavia A5 front and rear silent blocks of the lever not interchangeable, as are the left/right parts (although visually they may look the same). Always check the article numbers before purchasing!

What happens if you don’t change worn silent blocks?

Long driving with destroyed silent blocks leads to:

1. Damage to seats in the lever (the entire lever will need to be replaced, not just the bushing).

2. Curvature of suspension geometry, which leads to uneven tire wear and poor handling.

3. Subframe destruction due to increased vibrations (relevant for cars with powerful engines).

4. Losing control at high speed or during emergency braking.

Cost of service replacement vs self-repair

Cost of replacing rear silent blocks with Škoda Octavia A5 in service depends on the region and level of the service station. On average:

• Replacing one silent block (excluding spare parts) - from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles;
• Replacement kit (4 pcs.) - from 5,000 to 8,000 rubles;
• Additional work (wheel alignment, replacement of bolts) - from 1,000 to 2,500 rubles.

Self-replacement will only cost the cost of spare parts and possible rental of tools. However, keep in mind:

• 🔧 Without a puller and press, the process may take 4–6 hours (vs. 1–2 hours in the service);
• 🚗 Risk of errors during pressing, which will lead to repeated repairs;
• 🛠️ A wheel alignment will be required (approx. 1,500 rubles), even if you do everything right.

It is most profitable to change silent blocks yourself if you already have the necessary tool or you can borrow it from friends. Otherwise, the difference in price between service and self-repair will be insignificant.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to drive with worn rear silent blocks?

Technically it is possible, but it is dangerous. Worn silent blocks impair handling, especially at high speeds, and can lead to damage to other suspension components. When wear is critical (when the rubber is completely destroyed), the metal bushings begin to play, which can lead to lifting off the lever during a sharp maneuver.

Do I need to change silent blocks in pairs (left and right)?

Not required, but recommended. If the silent blocks are worn out on one side, most likely, on the other they are also close to their limiting condition. In addition, replacing in pairs ensures uniform suspension behavior. An exception is if you recently changed the silent block on one side, but on the other it is still in good condition.

How often do you need to check the condition of the rear silent blocks?

Optimally - every 30,000 km or once a year. Pay special attention to checking if:

• You often drive on dirt roads or uneven asphalt;
• The car is operated under overload (for example, you often transport heavy loads);
• You notice poor handling or uneven tire wear.

Is it possible to restore the silent block without replacing it?

No, this is a temporary solution. Some car owners try to “reanimate” silent blocks by pouring liquid rubber or sealant into them, but this will not restore their performance characteristics. Such measures may slightly reduce the knocking, but will not solve the problem of play and violation of suspension geometry.

Which silent blocks are better - rubber or polyurethane?

It depends on your driving style:

• Rubber — softer, absorb vibrations better, but less durable (lifespan ~80–100 thousand km).
• Polyurethane - tougher, last longer (up to 150–200 thousand km), but can increase noise and vibration in the cabin. Suitable for sporty driving or heavy-duty vehicles.

On Octavia A5 with a factory suspension it is better to install high-quality rubber silent blocks (for example, Lemforder or TRW). Polyurethane ones are justified only when tuning the suspension.