Rear brake pads on Škoda Yeti — a consumable that requires attention every 30–50 thousand kilometers. Their wear depends on driving style, quality of materials and operating conditions. If you notice a squeak, vibration when braking, or increased pedal travel, it's time to check the condition of the pads. In this article we will look at how to replace them yourself, without resorting to the services of a service station, saving up to 3-5 thousand rubles.

Replacement process Yeti (especially models with rear drum brakes on early versions or disc brakes on restyled ones) has its own nuances. For example, on cars with electronic hand brake (EPB) you will need a special scanner to reset the pads, and on versions with a mechanical one, a standard tool is enough. We will look at both options, pay attention to the choice of spare parts and typical mistakes that beginners make.

When is it time to change the rear pads on a Škoda Yeti?

The manufacturer recommends checking the brake system every 15,000 km, but the actual life of the pads depends on several factors:

  • 🚗 Riding style: Frequent hard braking reduces the life of the pads by 30–40%.
  • 🏔️ Operating conditions: In the city (with traffic jams) the pads wear out faster than on the highway.
  • 🔧 Quality of materials: cheap pads (for example, Fenox or Finwhale) can be washed within 20 thousand km, and premium (ATE, Brembo) serve up to 60 thousand km.
  • 🔥 Overheat: If the brakes are “burnt” (for example, after a long descent from a mountain), the pads may become deformed.

Wear can be determined by the following signs:

  • 🔊 Creaking or whistling when braking (most often caused by a wear indicator or sand).
  • 🛑 Increased pedal travel or its vibration (may indicate critical wear or deformation of the disk).
  • 📏 Friction layer thickness less than 2–3 mm (checked through the caliper inspection window or after removing the wheel).
  • 🚨 ABS or ESP lamp on the dashboard (sometimes lights up when the sensors are faulty, but can also indicate pad wear).
⚠️ Attention: On Škoda Yeti with electronic handbrake (EPB) If the pads are worn critically, the system may block the brakes! In this case, diagnostics with a scanner will be required (VCDS, OBDeleven) to reset the error.
📊 What type of rear brakes does your Škoda Yeti have?
  • Disk
  • Drums
  • Electronic handbrake (EPB)
  • I don't know

Which pads should I choose for the Škoda Yeti?

There are more than 50 brands of brake pads on the market, but not all are suitable for Yeti. Main selection criteria:

  1. Model compatibility. Specify the VIN code or year of manufacture: for example, for Yeti 2010–2013 with engine 1.8 TSI pads with article number will fit 5Q0 698 151, and for restyled versions (2014+) - 5Q0 698 151 A.
  2. Type of braking system. For disc brakes, choose pads with a metal-ceramic composition; for drum brakes, choose pads with a high copper content.
  3. Manufacturer. Optimal price/quality ratio TRW, Textar and Ferodo. Budget options (Bosch, ATE) last less, but are suitable for quiet driving.
Brand Article number (for disc brakes) Average price, rub. Features
TRW GDB1446 2 800–3 200 Low dust levels, suitable for aggressive riding
Textar 2586701 2 500–2 900 Soft, little noise, but wear out faster
Ferodo FDB1446 3 000–3 500 Long service life, but may creak for the first 200 km
ATE 13.0460-7206.2 2 200–2 600 Budget option, average resource

Important: On Škoda Yeti with ESP and ABS systems, use pads with original wear sensors (if they are provided for in the design). For example, for TRW GDB1446 The sensor is sold separately under item number GDB1446S.

Please check what's included before purchasing; some kits do not include guide plates or caliper lube. For a complete replacement you will also need:

  • 🧴 Guide lubricant (for example, Slipkote 220-R DBC).
  • 🔧 Caliper mounting bolts (it is recommended to replace, article number N 908 132 02).
  • 🛠️ Brake cleaner (for example, LIQUI MOLY Bremsen-Reiniger).

Tools for replacing rear pads on a Škoda Yeti

To work, you will need a standard set of tools, but there are also specific devices:

Jack and supports (or lift)

Wheelbrace (size 17 or 19)

Socket heads 13 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm

Ratchet wrench with extension

Flathead screwdriver (for spreading the pads)

Special puller for the caliper piston (or clamp)

WD-40 or equivalent for soured bolts

Scanner for EPB (if electronic handbrake)

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If on your Yeti installed electronic handbrake (EPB), you can’t do without a scanner. Popular models:

  • 📱 OBDeleven (from RUB 5,000) - suitable for diagnosing and resetting brake pads.
  • 💻 VCDS (VAG-COM) — a professional scanner, but expensive (from 20,000 rubles).
  • 🔌 Launch X431 — universal diagnostician, supports EPB.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing pads with Yeti with EPB it's impossible press the brake pedal with the caliper removed! This may push the piston too far and be difficult to push back without a scanner.

If you don’t have a scanner, you can try the old-fashioned method: disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to clear EPB errors. However, this does not work on all firmware versions.

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Before starting work, take a photo of the location of all caliper parts with your phone - this will help avoid errors during assembly.

Step-by-step instructions: replacing rear pads on a Škoda Yeti

Let's look at the process using an example Škoda Yeti 2012 with rear disc brakes and manual handbrake. For versions with EPB, the steps are similar, but the step of working with the scanner is added.

Step 1: Preparing and removing the wheel

1. Place the car on a level surface, engage first gear (or P for automatic transmission) and place chocks under the front wheels.

2. Loosen the rear wheel bolts (size 17 or 19), then jack up the car and remove the wheel.

3. Clean the caliper and disc from dirt using a wire brush and WD-40.

Step 2: Removing the Caliper

1. Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket (usually 13 mm or 15 mm). If the bolts are soured, use penetrating lubricant and an impact wrench.

2. Carefully remove the caliper and hang it on a wire or a special hook so as not to damage the brake hose.

What to do if the caliper bolts won't come off?

If the bolts do not budge even after using WD-40, try the following method:

1. Heat the bolt with a hair dryer (do not overheat!).

2. Use an impact wrench or socket wrench with extension to increase leverage.

3. As a last resort, cut the bolt with a grinder (replacement with new ones will be required).

Step 3: Replacing the Pads

1. Remove the old pads from the bracket. If they are stuck, carefully pry them off with a screwdriver.

2. Clean the guides and seats of the new pads from rust and dirt. Apply a thin layer high temperature grease on contact surfaces.

3. Install the new pads, making sure that the retainers (if any) are in place.

Step 4: Return the piston to the caliper

1. To press in the piston, use a special puller or clamp. On Yeti with a mechanical handbrake, the piston is screwed in clockwise (use a wrench 7 mm on the back side).

2. On models with EPB, the piston is pressed only using the scanner (the “Retraction” command in the EPB menu).

Step 5: Assembly and Testing

1. Install the caliper in place and tighten the bolts to a torque 30 Nm.

2. Put on the wheel, lower the car and press the brake pedal several times until the pads are in place.

3. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and add if necessary.

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After replacing the pads, be sure to test the brakes at low speed (20-30 km/h) in a safe place. For the first 100–200 km, avoid sharp braking - the pads need to get used to.

Typical mistakes when replacing pads on a Škoda Yeti

Even experienced car owners make mistakes that can lead to squeaking, uneven brake wear, or even brake failure. Here are the most common:

  • 🔧 Unlubricated guides. If you do not apply lubricant to the contact surfaces of the pads and caliper, a squeak will appear or the pads will “stick.”
  • 🔩 Overtightened caliper bolts. This leads to deformation of the bracket and uneven wear of the pads.
  • 🚗 Incorrect installation of springs or retainers. On some versions Yeti The pads are secured with additional clamps - they are easy to lose or install crookedly.
  • 💧 Ignoring brake fluid. After replacing the pads, the fluid level in the reservoir rises. If it is not controlled, it may overflow when heated.
  • 📱 Unreset EPB. If the piston is not returned to its original position through the scanner, the brakes will lock.

Another common problem is dirt getting on the working surface of the pads. For example, if you drive through a puddle after replacement, water and road salt can cause corrosion of the disc and accelerated wear of the friction material. To avoid this, after installing the pads, it is recommended to do 2-3 intensive braking sessions from a speed of 60-80 km/h (in a safe place!). This will remove possible contaminants and speed up grinding.

⚠️ Attention: On Škoda Yeti with the system ESP After replacing the pads, the malfunction lamp may come on. This is due to the fact that ABS sensors detect changes in braking force. The error will reset automatically after 2-3 trips or it can be erased with a scanner.

How to extend the life of rear brake pads?

The service life of the pads can be increased by 20–30% if you follow simple rules:

  • 🚦 Smooth braking. Try to avoid sudden pressure on the pedal - this reduces the life of the pads by 2-3 times.
  • 🔄 Alternating brakes. On long descents, use engine braking (low gear) rather than constantly pressing the pedal.
  • 🚿 Brake washing. In winter, after driving on salt roads, wash the brake mechanisms with water (do not use a Karcher under high pressure!).
  • 🔧 Regular check. Every 10,000 km, clean the calipers from dirt and lubricate the guides.

Also note condition of brake discs. If they have deep grooves (more than 1mm) or waviness, the pads will wear unevenly. In this case, the discs need to be sharpened or replaced. For Yeti minimum permissible thickness of the rear disc - 8.4 mm (denomination - 10 mm).

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If you often travel with a trailer or carry heavy loads, install pads with a high friction coefficient (for example, Ferodo Premier or Brembo Max). They are more expensive, but can withstand high loads.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing rear pads on a Škoda Yeti

Is it possible to replace only the rear pads without touching the front ones?

Yes, but it is not recommended if the front pads are also worn. The braking system must work in a balanced manner. If the rear pads are new and the front pads are worn out, this can lead to skidding during emergency braking. It is optimal to change the pads in pairs (front + rear or at least the entire axle).

How long does it take to replace rear pads on a Yeti?

It takes an experienced technician 30–40 minutes to complete one wheel. If you are doing this for the first time, allow 2-3 hours (taking into account possible difficulties with soured bolts or EPB). On versions with an electronic handbrake, add another 20–30 minutes to work with the scanner.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads?

Not unless you disconnected the brake lines and drained the fluid. Bleeding is required only when the system is depressurized (for example, if the caliper was completely removed or the hoses were changed). However, after replacing the pads, check the brake fluid level - it may rise.

Why do the brakes squeak after replacing the pads?

Creaking in the first 100–200 km is normal (the surfaces are rubbing in). If the sound does not go away, possible reasons:

  • Poor quality pads (for example, with a high metal content).
  • Lack of lubrication on the guides or the back of the pads.
  • Dirt gets between the pad and the disc.
  • Warped or worn brake disc.

Try cleaning the brakes and applying anti-slip paste (for example, LIQUI MOLY Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste).

Is it possible to drive if the pad wear indicator has worn out?

Yes, but not for long. The indicator is a metal plate that begins to scrape across the disk when wear is critical. If it is not there, focus on the thickness of the friction layer: if it is less than 2 mm, the pads need to be replaced urgently. Driving on “metal” leads to disc damage and increased braking distance.