Replacing rear brake pads on a ŠKODA Kodiaq: detailed instructions with photos and tips

Rear brake pads on ŠKODA Kodiaq is a critical safety element that requires regular monitoring and timely replacement. Unlike the front ones, the rear pads wear out more slowly, but their condition directly affects braking efficiency, especially in emergency situations or driving downhill. Owners Kodiaq (especially with motors 1.5 TSI, 2.0 TSI or 2.0 TDI) are often faced with the question: when and how to properly change the rear pads to avoid damage to the brake discs or calipers?

In this article we will analyze the entire replacement process - from diagnosing wear to final bleeding of the brake system. You will learn what tools you will need, how to avoid common mistakes (for example, incorrect installation of guides or misaligned pads), and why on Kodiaq with electronic handbrake (EPB) the operating algorithm differs from classical brakes. We will also compare the original pads ŠKODA (article 1K0 698 451 G) with popular analogues from TRW, Brembo and ATEto help you choose the best option in terms of price and quality.

When to change rear brake pads on a ŠKODA Kodiaq

The manufacturer recommends checking the condition of the pads every 15,000–20,000 km, but their actual service life depends on driving style, quality of materials and operating conditions. On Kodiaq with the system EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) Pads may wear out faster due to automatic tightening when parking. The need for replacement is indicated by:

• 🚨 Creaking or squealing when braking - a sign of critical wear of the friction layer or the ingress of foreign particles.
• 🔧 Increased brake pedal travel or its “softness” - may indicate thinning pads or brake fluid leakage.
• 📏 Friction layer thickness less than 2 mm (by visual inspection through the caliper inspection window).
• 🔴 Wear indicator on the dashboard (on models with pad sensors).

On Kodiaq 2017–2023 model years, rear pads often last longer than the front ones, but their service life rarely exceeds 50,000–60,000 km during urban use. If you notice uneven wear (one pad wears out faster than the other), this may indicate jammed caliper guide pin or brake disc deformation - in such cases, a comprehensive diagnosis is required.

⚠️ Attention: On Kodiaq with EPB You cannot ignore the warning about low brake fluid level - this may be due to the automatic supply of brake pads when the electronic handbrake is activated. Check the level in the reservoir and the condition of the pads!

Which pads to choose: original vs analogues

Original rear pads for ŠKODA Kodiaq (article 1K0 698 451 G or 5Q0 698 451 for models after 2020) cost from 3,500 to 5,000 rubles per set. They guarantee perfect compatibility with the system EPB and minimal risk of squeaks, but many owners choose analogues from trusted brands:

Brand	Article	Price (set), rubles	Features
TRW	GDB1745	2 800–3 200	Soft friction material, low noise, suitable for EPB.
Brembo	P 24 063	3 000–3 500	High wear resistance, but creaking is possible in cold weather.
ATE	13.0460-7216.2	2 500–2 900	Optimal price/quality ratio, but requires running in 200–300 km.
Textar	2510101	2 200–2 600	A budget option, but it can wear out the discs faster.

When choosing analogues, pay attention to availability of ECE R90 certificate and compatibility with EPB. Cheap pads without markings often lead to accelerated disc wear, caliper corrosion or uneven braking. Also check if they are included new guide bolts and grease - on Kodiaq It is recommended to change them every time the pads are replaced.

Tools and materials for replacement

To replace the rear pads yourself Kodiaq you will need:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to secure the car on a flat surface!).
• 🔨 Balloon wrench and socket heads 13 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm.
• 🔩 7 mm hexagon to unscrew the caliper guides.
• 🛠️ Special puller for caliper piston (for models with EPB).
• 🧴 High temperature grease (for example, Slipkote 220-R DBC or LIQUI MOLY Bremsen-Anti-Quitsch-Paste).
• 🧤 Brake fluid DOT 4 (for topping up after replacement).
• 📦 New pads (set for both sides) and guide anthers.

For Kodiaq with EPB additionally needed diagnostic scanner (for example, VCDS or OBDeleven) to reset the caliper piston to its original position. Without this tool, return the piston back impossible - it is blocked by an electric motor.

⚠️ Attention: Never use WD-40 or other all-purpose lubricants on the caliper guides! They cannot withstand high temperatures and can cause the mechanism to jam. Only specialized pastes for brake systems!

Place the car on a flat surface and secure with stops|Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (to relieve pressure)|Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (for models with EPB)|Prepare new pads and tools|Rotate the wheels to access the caliper-->

Step-by-step instructions for replacing rear pads

Replacement process Kodiaq with EPB different from classic brakes. Follow the algorithm:

1. Preparation:

   Jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheel. Clean the caliper and guides from dirt (use a wire brush and brake cleaner). Do not blow with compressed air - dust from the pads is harmful to your lungs!

2. Removing the caliper:

   Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (usually hexagon 7 mm), then carefully hang the caliper on a wire to the spring - don't let it hang on the brake hose!

3. Removing old pads:

   Remove the spring clips (if equipped) and pull out the pads. Please note brake disc condition - if there are deep grooves or cracks on it, it also needs to be replaced.

4. Recessing the piston:

   On models with EPB The caliper piston is screwed in clockwise. Use a special puller or pliers, but don't try too hard - you risk damaging the thread. After retracting the piston, be sure to reset its position through the diagnostic scanner (command Basic Settings → EPB → Reset in VCDS).

5. Installing new pads:

   Apply a thin layer of high temperature grease to back side of the pads (not on the friction surface!) and install them in the caliper. Make sure guide pins lubricated and move freely.

6. Assembly and pumping:

   Secure the caliper, install the wheel and repeat the procedure for the second side. After replacement press the brake pedal several timesso that the pads fall into place. Check the brake fluid level and add if necessary.

On Kodiaq with EPB required after replacing pads electronic handbrake calibration. To do this:

1. Connect your scanner and select a function EPB Service Mode.
2. Activate maintenance mode (usually hold down the button Auto Hold + turn on the ignition).
3. Wait until the procedure is completed (a message will appear on the scanner screen OK).

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when replacing rear pads with Kodiaq. Here are the most common:

• 🔧 Unreset caliper piston - makes it impossible to install new pads. On EPB this is critical: without a scanner, the piston will not return to its original position.
• 🧴 Using the wrong lubricant - universal lubricants (such as Litola) are destroyed when heated, causing corrosion of the guides.
• 🔩 Overtightened caliper bolts - the tightening torque should be 25–30 Nm. Exceeding this leads to deformation of the caliper.
• 🚗 Unchecked brake fluid level — after recessing the piston, liquid may overflow through the tank, damaging the paintwork.
• 🔊 Ignoring squeaks after replacement — new pads may squeak for the first 100–200 km (break-in period), but if the sound does not go away, check the installation anti-squeal plates.

Another common problem is uneven pad wear after replacement. This happens due to:

• 🔄 Jammed guides (needs to be cleaned and lubricated).
• 📉 Warped brake disc (check the runout with an indicator).
• 🔧 Incorrect pad installation (for example, the right and left sides are mixed up).

⚠️ Attention: If the indicator on the dashboard lights up after replacing the pads EPBand the scanner shows an error P1578 (drive motor malfunction), which means the piston was not reset correctly. Repeat the reset procedure through the diagnostic equipment!

What to do if the caliper piston does not retract?

If the piston does not screw back in even with the use of a puller, there are two possible reasons:

1. Thread corrosion - try treating it with a penetrating lubricant (for example, PB Blaster) and leave for 10–15 minutes.

2. Damage to the EPB motor — in this case, the caliper assembly will need to be replaced. Diagnosed by the scanner (errors C1145 or C1130).

Running in new pads and checking brake operation

After replacing the pads with Kodiaq must be completed running-in for uniform running-in of friction material to the discs. Follow this algorithm:

1. First 100 km: Avoid sudden braking. Brake smoothly, with no more force 50–60% from the maximum.
2. Next 200 km: perform 5–6 control braking from speed 60–80 km/h until it comes to a complete stop (at intervals of 1–2 km for cooling).
3. After 300 km: Check the braking efficiency and the presence of extraneous noise.

Pay special attention to checking the system EPB:

• 🅿️ Make sure the electronic handbrake securely fixes car on a slope (test: put it on a slope of 15–20% and check the hold).
• 🔄 Check the function Auto Hold — it should automatically hold the car after stopping.
• 🚨 If after replacing the pads EPB spontaneously activates or deactivates, reset the adaptations via the scanner.

It is also recommended to check tightness of the brake system: After replacing the pads, inspect the calipers and hoses for leaks. If the brake pedal becomes “soft” or fails, it is necessary to bleeding the brakes.

Cost of service replacement vs self-repair

Rear pad replacement cost ŠKODA Kodiaq in official services varies from 4,000 to 7,000 rubles (excluding cost of parts). In unofficial car services, the work will cost 2,500–4,000 rubles. Replacing it yourself will save money, but requires:

• 🛠️ Availability of tools (especially the scanner for EPB).
• ⏱️ Time (2–3 hours for a beginner, 1–1.5 hours for an experienced master).
• 🔧 Experience with the braking system (mistakes can lead to emergency situations!).

Cost breakdown for DIY replacement:

Component	Cost, rubles	Notes
Pads (original)	3 500–5 000	Set for both sides.
Pads (analogues)	2 200–3 500	We recommend TRW or ATE.
Caliper Lubricant	300–600	High temperature paste (50–100 g).
Brake fluid DOT 4	400–800	1 liter (for topping up or complete replacement).
EPB diagnostics (if there is no scanner)	1 000–1 500	Service within the service for piston reset.

In total, independent replacement will cost 3,000–6,000 rubles (with original pads) vs. 7,000–12,000 rubles in the service. However, if you have no experience with EPB, it is better to entrust the procedure to professionals - errors when resetting the piston or calibration can result in brake failure.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing rear pads on Kodiaq

Is it possible to change the pads on a Kodiaq without a scanner if I have EPB?

No, on models with EPB The caliper piston is blocked by an electric motor, and it cannot be pushed in manually (as with classic brakes). Without a scanner, you will not be able to reset the piston to its original position, and if you force a reset (for example, by compression), you risk damaging the mechanism. An alternative is to have the car towed to a service center to reset the adaptations.

How often do you need to change brake fluid when replacing pads?

The manufacturer recommends replacing brake fluid every 2 years or 30,000 km, regardless of the condition of the pads. If you notice that the fluid has darkened or there is sediment in it, be sure to replace it - old fluid reduces braking efficiency and accelerates corrosion of the calipers.

Why do the brakes squeak after replacing the pads?

The creaking of new pads in the first 100–300 km is normal (break-in period). If the sound persists for longer, check:

• Correct installation anti-squeal plates (they should be between the pad and the caliper).
• The quality of the pads - cheap analogues often creak due to the hard friction material.
• Condition of the brake discs - if they have deep grooves, the pads will “cling” to them.

As a last resort, use anti-squeak paste on the back of the pads (but not on the working surface!).

What happens if you don't change the rear pads for a long time?

Ignoring rear pad wear leads to:

• Damage to brake discs (they will have to be sharpened or replaced).
• Brake fluid leak due to caliper overheating.
• Guide jamming or caliper piston.
• Reduced braking efficiency, especially on wet roads.
• EPB Emergency Mode Activations (an error light will appear on the dashboard).

Critical pad wear can lead to brake failure during emergency braking!

Can the pads be placed on only one side?

No! Pads are always changing in pairs on the same axis (both rear or both front). Installing new pads on only one side will lead to uneven braking and the car pulls to the side when you press the pedal. The exception is if the pads on the second side are almost new (less than 30% wear), but even in this case it is better to replace both.