Outdoor CV joint (constant velocity joint) - one of the most loaded components of the chassis Skoda Yeti, especially if the car is operated in off-road conditions or urban pits. The wear of this element is manifested by a characteristic crunch when turning, vibration at speed and even wheel wedging. Unlike the internal CV joint, the external one changes more often due to constant exposure to dirt, moisture and mechanical loads.
In this article we will look at all stages of replacing the outer CV joint on a Yeti - from fault diagnosis to final assembly. You will learn what tools are needed, how to properly remove the drive shaft without damaging the boot, and what to look for when choosing a new CV joint (original vs analogues). We will pay special attention unique feature of drive mounting on models with 4x4 all-wheel drive, where the process differs from front-wheel drive versions.
The material was prepared taking into account the experience of car services and reviews of owners, so there is no βwaterβ here - only verified data, diagrams and warnings about typical errors. If you have never repaired a chassis, some stages will seem difficult, but if you have the tools and patience, the task is doable even in a garage.
Signs of a faulty outer CV joint on a Skoda Yeti
The first signal about problems with the CV joint is crunch when turning, especially with the steering wheel fully turned. The sound may resemble the grinding of gravel under the wheels, but it comes specifically from the front wheel area. On Skoda Yeti With all-wheel drive, a crunch is often heard when driving in a straight line, if wear is critical.
Other symptoms:
- π§ Steering wheel vibration at speeds over 60 km/h - a sign of shaft runout due to play in the CV joint.
- π Jerks during acceleration, especially after a long stay (the oil in the CV joint thickens and βbitesβ worn parts).
- π§ Lubricant leaks on the inside of the wheel - means the boot ruptures and dirt gets into the mechanism.
- π Pulling the car to the side when braking or accelerating (typical of severe wear).
On Yeti with engines 1.8 TSI and 2.0 TDI a faulty CV joint can cause an error P0500 (incorrect speed sensor readings) because the sensor reads data from the drive shaft. If the dashboard lights up ABS badge simultaneously with a crunching sound - this is another reason to check the CV joint.
β οΈ Attention: Crunch when straight motion more often indicates a malfunction internal CV joint, not external. On a Yeti with all-wheel drive, both joints can fail at the same time due to increased stress on the transmission.
- Never changed
- Less than a year ago
- 1-3 years ago
- More than 3 years ago
- I don't remember
What tools and spare parts are needed for replacement?
To work you will need special CV joint puller (or a universal bearing puller), since a standard hammer and pry bar can damage the seats. Full list of tools:
- π§ Set of sockets and socket wrenches (required)
17 mm,19 mm,24 mmfor the hub nut). - π¨ Retaining ring remover (for removing the inner CV joint from the box).
- π Torque wrench (hub nut tightening torque - 200 Nm).
- π§° Jack and reliable stops (working on a jack alone is dangerous!).
- π© WD-40 or similar cleaner (sticky nuts are a common problem on Yeti).
- π§΄ New CV joint grease (for example, Molykote BR2 Plus or LIQUI MOLY LM47).
For spare parts: original outer CV joint for Skoda Yeti has an article number 1K0 498 081 (for models up to 2014) or 5Q0 498 081 (after facelift). Cost - from 8,000 to 12,000 rubles. Popular analogues:
| Brand | Article | Price, rub. | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| GKN (LOEBRO) | ADG00105 |
6 500β7 800 | High quality, often installed on the VAG production line |
| SKF | VKJA 7603 |
5 800β6 900 | Good dust protection, but there are fakes |
| Febi | 28100 |
4 200β5 500 | Budget option, resource ~50,000 km |
| HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS | J4980001 |
3 800β4 700 | Suitable for temporary replacement, low resource |
Be sure to buy new boot (article 1K0 498 109) and clamps - reusing old ones is fraught with rupture. For all-wheel drive versions Yeti will also be required drive shaft oil seal (article 02D 498 185), since when removing the shaft it is often damaged.
Before buying a CV joint, check it for play in the store - even a new unit may have a defect. It is enough to rock the shaft in different directions: play of more than 0.5 mm is unacceptable.
Preparing the vehicle and removing the drive shaft
Start work on flat ground with the handbrake on. If you are replacing a CV joint on the right side, first remove negative terminal from the battery - this will prevent a short circuit if the wiring is accidentally touched.
Step by step instructions:
- Loosen the hub nut (tightening torque is 200 Nm, so you canβt do without a lever). Don't remove it completely!
- Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Place chocks under the rear wheels.
- Unscrew ball joint bolts (2 pcs., 16 mm head) and move the stand to the side.
- Turn it inside out steering wheel to extreme position (to access the CV joint) and press the hub off the shaft using a puller or pry bar.
- Unscrew 3 bolts securing the inner CV joint to the box (13 mm head). Be careful - oil may leak from the box!
On all-wheel drive Yeti after removing the shaft it is necessary plug the hole in the box clean rags to avoid dirt. Also note oil seal - if there are traces of oil on it, it is better to replace it.
Loosened the hub nut|Removed the battery terminal (for the right side)|Putted stops under the rear wheels|Noted the position of the ball joint bolts (for reassembly)|Prepared a rag for the box plug-->
β οΈ Attention: On Skoda Yeti with engines1.4 TSIand1.8 TSIThe drive shaft on the right side is shorter than the left. Do not mix them up when reinstalling them - this will lead to vibration and rapid wear of the new CV joint.
Removing the old CV joint and installing a new one
After dismantling the shaft, clamp it in a vice through soft spacers (for example, wooden blocks). Next:
- Remove boot clamps and cut off the old boot if it is torn.
- Mark the shaft and CV joint with a marker - this will help maintain balance during reassembly.
- Use a puller to remove retaining ring (located in the groove on the shaft).
- Hit the soft spacer with a hammer CV joint cageto move it off the shaft. Don't hit the shaft itself!
Before installing a new CV joint clean the shaft thoroughly from old grease and dirt. The new CV joint is installed in the reverse order:
- π§ Put it on new boot onto the shaft (do not tighten the clamps!).
- π Apply lubricant on the shaft splines and the inside of the CV joint (about 80β100 grams).
- π¨ Press the CV joint onto the shaft, using the old race as a spacer so as not to damage the new unit.
- π Install the retaining ring and check for play - there shouldn't be any.
On Yeti with all-wheel drive after installing a new CV joint it is necessary check the hinge angle. To do this, turn the shaft to its extreme positions - if the boot is stretched or twisted, it means that the CV joint is installed incorrectly.
What to do if the new CV joint does not fit on the shaft?
If the CV joint does not press in even after several blows, check:
1) Are there any burrs or corrosion on the shaft (clean with sandpaper).
2) Does the diameter of the shaft and the hole in the CV joint match (sometimes you get defective parts).
3) Is the retaining ring installed correctly - it should sit in the groove without distortion.
If the problem persists, try cooling the CV joint in the freezer for 1-2 hours (the metal will shrink) or heat the shaft with a hair dryer (it will expand).
Assembly and inspection after replacement
Reinstalling the shaft is done in reverse order, but there are several critical points:
- π§ Hub nut tighten only after the vehicle is lowered on the wheels (otherwise the wheel bearing will fail).
- π Ball joint bolts tighten with the moment
60 Nm + 90Β°(use a torque wrench!). - π After assembly check wheel alignment angles - Even a small shift can cause uneven tire wear.
Carry out your first test drive at empty parking lot:
- Check for vibration when accelerating to 60 km/h.
- Turn the steering wheel all the way left and right - there should be no crunching noise.
- Drive over the speed bump - there should be no knocks or squeaks.
If after replacement there is vibration at speed 80β100 km/h, the probable reason is incorrect shaft balancing or damage to the boot during installation. In this case, you will have to repeat the disassembly.
On a Skoda Yeti with all-wheel drive, after replacing the CV joint, be sure to check the oil level in the transfer case and gearbox - when removing the shaft, up to 100β150 ml of fluid could leak out.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes when replacing a CV joint with Yeti. Here are the most common:
- π§ Using an old boot - leads to dirt getting into the new CV joint and its rapid wear.
- π Insufficient lubrication β The CV joint runs βdryβ and gets hot, which reduces its service life by 2β3 times.
- π¨ Retightening the hub nut β leads to destruction of the bearing (symptom: hum when driving).
- π Mismatch of marks on the shaft and CV joint - Causes vibration and wheel wobble.
One more critical error - ignoring verification internal CV joint. On Yeti With a mileage of more than 100,000 km, the inner joint often wears out at the same time as the outer one. If you do not replace it on time, after 10β15 thousand km you will have to repeat the entire procedure.
β οΈ Attention: On models withDSG-7an error may appear after removing the drive shaftP179A(wheel speed discrepancy). Reset it with a diagnostic scanner or by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes.
Cost of work in the service vs independent replacement
In car services, the price of replacing an outer CV joint is Skoda Yeti varies from 3,500 to 6,000 rubles per side (excluding spare parts). A full range of work (replacement of both CV joints + boots + lubrication) will cost 12,000β18,000 rubles.
Self-replacement allows you to save money, but requires:
- π§ Tools (CV joint puller, torque wrench) - ~5,000 rub. when buying a new one.
- π Time - 4β6 hours for a beginner, 2β3 hours for an experienced master.
- π Access to a pit or lift (working on a jack is unsafe!).
It is most profitable to order work from the service complex replacement (both CV joints + boots), since the workshop often makes a discount. If the car's mileage exceeds 150,000 km, it is advisable to replace entire drive shaft assembly - it is more reliable and cheaper in the long term.
| Option | Cost, rub. | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Self-replacement | 4,000β7,000 (spare parts) | Saving on work, quality control | Risk of errors, requires tools and time |
| Service (one CV joint) | 10 000β14 000 | Guaranteed work, fast | Expensive, not all services are covered by Yeti |
| Replacing the shaft assembly | 18 000β25 000 | Reliable, long service life | High cost of spare parts |
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing a CV joint on a Skoda Yeti
Is it possible to drive with a crisp CV joint?
Short term - yes, but not worth the risk. A worn CV joint may jam when turning, which will lead to loss of control. On Yeti With all-wheel drive, a faulty CV joint also puts stress on the transmission, accelerating wear. differential and transfer case.
How often do you need to change the CV joint on a Yeti?
Resource of the original CV joint - 100,000β150,000 km. However, if the boot is damaged or aggressive off-road driving, the service life is reduced to 50,000β80,000 km. It is recommended to check the condition of the boots every 20,000 km.
What is the difference between replacing a CV joint on a Yeti with all-wheel drive?
On 4x4 versions the drive shaft is longer and needs to be completely remove from the transfer case. Also requires replacement oil seal (article 02D 498 185), since when removing the shaft it is damaged. Without this, oil will ooze from the transfer case.
Is it possible to use a used CV joint?
Theoretically yes, but the risk is very high. Even if the CV joint looks intact, its life may be running out. In addition, used parts are often sold without boots, and new boots on an old CV joint do not always fit tightly.
Is it necessary to do a wheel alignment after replacement?
If you didn't touch steering rods and racks, wheel alignment is not necessary. However, if the ball joint or lever is moved during assembly, the wheel alignment may be disrupted. Check tire wear evenly after 500 km.