Replacing brake pads on a ŠKODA Kodiaq: instructions with photos and expert advice

Replacing brake pads with ŠKODA Kodiaq - a procedure that many car owners prefer to delegate to services, but if you have minimal skills and the right instructions, you can perform it yourself. The crossover braking system is built on the platform MQB, which means common features with Volkswagen Tiguan and Audi Q5, but there are also unique nuances - for example, the design of the rear calipers with an electric parking brake (EPB).

In this article we will walk through the entire process from wear diagnostics before the final bleeding of the brakes, paying attention to the choice of pads (original vs analogues), the necessary tools and typical mistakes. We will pay special attention rear pads with EPB - their replacement requires an adaptation reset via a diagnostic scanner (VCDS, OBDeleven) or a special procedure without equipment. If you've never worked on a brake system, start with the front axle - it's easier and safer for beginners.

When to change brake pads on a ŠKODA Kodiaq: signs of wear

The manufacturer recommends checking the thickness of the pads every 15,000 km, but the actual service life depends on driving style, quality of spare parts and operating conditions. For Kodiaq with engines 1.5 TSI, 2.0 TSI or 2.0 TDI average life of front pads - 30–50 thousand km, rear - 60–80 thousand km.

The need for replacement is indicated by:

• 🔊 Creaking or whistling when braking (wear indicator or metallic friction).
• 📏 Friction layer thickness less than 3 mm (visually through the spokes of the disk).
• 🚗 Increased braking distance or "soft" pedal.
• 🔥 Overheating of brake discs (a burning smell appears after intense braking).
• 💡 Message on the dashboard (for versions with wear sensors).

On Kodiaq after 2020 production, pads with electronic wear sensors (original article number - 1K0 907 625). If the brake system icon lights up on the display, do not ignore it: driving with worn pads leads to damage to the discs (grooving them will cost 2-3 times more than new pads).

⚠️ Attention: On the rear axle Kodiaq with EPB The pads wear unevenly - the inner one often wears out faster than the outer one. Check both sides!

Which pads to choose for ŠKODA Kodiaq: original vs analogues

Original pads from ŠKODA (manufacturer - TRW or ATE) guarantee compatibility, but their price is often too high. For Kodiaq The following items are relevant:

When choosing analogues, pay attention to:

• 🔧 Friction material composition (ceramics or semi-metal - the first option is quieter and more durable).
• 📋 ECE R90 certification (guarantee of compliance with safety standards).
• 🔄 Completeness (the kit must contain guide plates and lubricant).

For aggressive driving style we recommend pads Brembo or EBC Redstuff - they can withstand high temperatures, but can wear out the discs more. Economy option - Ferodo or Textar, but their resource is 20–30% lower than the original.

Tools and materials for replacement

To work you will need:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (be sure to insure your car!).
• 🔩 Set of sockets and socket wrenches (sizes: 13, 15, 17 mm).
• 🔨 Hammer and chisel (for rear calipers with EPB).
• 🧴 Guide lubricant (TRW PFG110 or ATE Plastilube).
• 🔧 Caliper piston remover (for rear axle).
• 💻 Diagnostic scanner (VCDS, OBDeleven - to reset EPB).
• 🧤 Gloves and brake cleaner (Brembo Cleaner).

For rear pads with EPB Additionally you will need:

• 🔌 Adapter for connecting to OBD-II (if you don’t have a scanner, you can use Carista or Torque Pro with firmware for VW group).
• 🔋 Battery charger (If you use the EPB for a long time, the battery may become discharged).

⚠️ Attention: Do not use WD-40 to clean brake components! Its residues lead to a decrease in braking efficiency. Only specialized alcohol-based cleaners.

Remove the wheel and clean the caliper from dirt|Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir|Prepare new pads and lubricant|Disconnect the negative battery terminal (for EPB)|Install wheel chocks under the rear wheels-->

Step-by-step replacement of front brake pads

The front axle is easier to maintain, since there is no EPB. Follow the algorithm:

1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Clean the caliper and disc from dirt (use a wire brush and cleaner).

2. Remove the caliper guides:

   • Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (head on 13 mm).
   • Carefully pry up the caliper with a screwdriver and hang it on the strut spring (do not put pressure on the brake hose!).

3. Remove old pads and inspect the disc for grooves or cracks. If the groove depth exceeds 0.5 mm, the disc requires resurfacing or replacement.

4. Sink the caliper piston:

   • Use sliding pliers or a special puller.
   • Before doing this, open the brake fluid reservoir cap - the level will rise!

5. Install new pads:

   • Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the guides and the back of the pads (not to the friction layer!).
   • Make sure the retaining clips (if equipped) are in place.

If after replacement the pedal becomes “soft”, bleed the brakes (instructions in the next section).

Replacing rear pads with EPB: nuances and adaptation reset

Rear axle with electromechanical parking brake requires a special approach. The main difficulty is piston retraction, which cannot be done with a regular puller due to the threaded mechanism.

Replacement algorithm:

1. Disconnect the battery (negative terminal first!) - this will prevent accidental activation of the EPB.

2. Remove the caliper:

   • Unscrew the two mounting bolts (head on 15 mm).
   • Disconnect the wear sensor connector (if equipped).

→ 03 – Brake system
→ 04 – Basic settings
→ Select "Reset EPB adaptation"
→ Follow the instructions on the screen

⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the rear pads, the parking brake does not hold or makes a grinding noise, check:

• Correct installation of the pads (they should sit without distortion).
• Condition of the EPB cable (if it breaks, the entire mechanism will need to be replaced).
• Presence of errors in the control unit (code U1113 indicates a loss of communication with the sensor).

Brake bleeding and final checks

After replacing the pads (especially if the caliper pistons were retracted), air may remain in the system. Bleeding the brakes Kodiaq performed in the following order:

1. Right rear wheel.
2. Left rear wheel.
3. Right front wheel.
4. Left front wheel.

Instructions:

1. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and fill to the maximum (DOT 4).

2. Place a transparent hose onto the bleeder fitting (on the caliper), and lower the other end into a container with liquid.

3. Have an assistant press the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold it down.

4. Unscrew the fitting ½ turn - the liquid with air will come out into the container. Tighten the fitting and repeat the process until clear liquid comes out without bubbles.

After pumping:

• 🔧 Check the fluid level in the reservoir (should be between MIN and MAX).
• 🚗 Test your brakes on the go: accelerate to 40 km/h and brake sharply. The pedal should be “elastic”, without dips.
• 🔊 Listen for any extraneous sounds (a creaking sound in the first 100 km is normal, if it does not get stronger).

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when replacing brake pads. Kodiaq. Here are the most common:

Another common problem is new pads squeak. Causes and solutions:

• 🔊 Lapping (norm in the first 200–300 km).
• 🧴 No anti-squeak plate (install it or apply anti-squeal on the back of the block).
• 🔧 Poor quality friction material (replace the pads with ceramic ones).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about replacing brake pads on a ŠKODA Kodiaq